Metaxochori on Mount Kissavos - An Artistic “Cocoon”

Nestled in a lush area at the foot of Mount Kissavos, Metaxochori is now known as the “village of artists.” However, its greatest prosperity occurred during the 18th century, when silkworm breeding brought decades of wealth to the village.

Its two names, the old (Slavic), Retsiani, and the new, Metaxochori, give us some initial, interesting information about the beautiful village on the slopes of Kissavos, a few kilometers from the "capital" of the area, Agia. The first, which means "River Village," informs us geographically, as the Amyros River crosses the village, offering it rich vegetation and plenty of coolness. The second, informs us historically and refers us to the 17th and (mainly) the 18th century, the era when silkworm breeding brought decades of prosperity to Metaxochori.

Sericulture required large spaces and special temperature-humidity conditions and led to the construction of impressive stone buildings built by renowned Epirus craftsmen and known as "koukoulospita" (silkworm houses). Unfortunately, this period did not last long, and its end led Metaxochori to a sweet decline.

A favorite of artists

Until, in the late 1960s, the legendary Bost (Mentis Bostantzoglou) decided to buy a house here. He began to call his friends, artists and "literati," who were dazzled (logically!) by the beauty of the village. Some of them chose it as a favorite place for recreation and even permanent residence! Somehow, the village acquired the artistic aura that accompanies it to this day.

Look for the old, restored mansion of 1860, which housed the first Girls' School of Thessaly in 1894 and now operates as a Cultural Center. At the entrance of the village, see the imposing Favre mansion and ask the locals to tell you the incredible story of wealth, love, betrayal, and destruction that accompanies it. Go up to the church of Prophet Elias (17th century) and admire the well-preserved external frescoes, as well as the view of the plain. Search for the "gavatzia", the stubborn tree that split a rock in two, at the spot where, according to folk tradition, Kosmas the Aetolian taught.

The wonderful, old grocery store of Achilles Setsikas is, unfortunately, now closed, but the person who will give it life again is being sought. Ask the locals for directions to the "Eleven Arches", to see the old stone aqueduct just outside the settlement. Returning to the village, stop at "Archontiko Soulioti" to see how an old "koukoulospito" of 1850 is being transformed in an exemplary way into a wonderful, atmospheric guesthouse. Its always hospitable owner, Mr. Theodoros Souliotis (for friends, "Roulis") is a worthy civil engineer, "responsible" for the restoration of many mansions and neoclassical buildings, both in Metaxochori and in Agia. He is a "mobile encyclopedia" regarding the area!

After all this, take a break in the beautiful village square for coffee, a drink, or food. Take a deep breath of coolness, because the exploration of the magic of Kissavos has just begun!