PYLI - KOZIAKAS - A timeless PassageRarely does the true essence of a place so perfectly match its name as it does with Pyli, which, true to its meaning, serves as a “gate” or passageway from the plain of Trikala to the mountainous region of southern Pindos. But don’t be too quick to pass through it—there’s much to discover before you move on!In Byzantine times, the settlement was located on the northern bank of the Portaikos (or "Portiatis") river, where today we find the neighborhood and the magnificent Porta Panagia church. Back then, it was called Megalai Pylai (Great Gates), a name that during the Ottoman period gave way to "Porta Pazar." The modern settlement “moved across” to a naturally cooler and shadier area.Religious MonumentsToday’s small town has the charming, laid-back atmosphere of the Greek countryside, and it’s worth strolling through its narrow streets. But the most impressive attraction lies in the old “territory,” which you can access by crossing a pedestrian bridge 120 meters long and 2 meters wide. You can also reach it by car via another nearby bridge. There, where Megalai Pylai once stood, you’ll encounter a Byzantine masterpiece: the church of the Holy Virgin, better known as “Porta Panagia”, a three-aisled, domed, cross-in-square basilica. It served as the katholikon of a stauropegic monastery founded in 1283.Image On this side of the river, a little further away, about 5 km from Pyli at an altitude of 650 meters on the slopes of Koziakas, stands another major religious monument, the Monastery of Saint Vissarion of Dousiko. It was founded in 1535 by the most prominent native of Pyli, Saint Vissarion (patron saint of Pyli, Trikala, and Kalambaka), during his tenure as Metropolitan of Larissa. It is one of the few monasteries outside Mount Athos where the avaton applies—women are prohibited from entering, based on the recorded wishes of its founder.Externally, it resembles a fortress—it actually served as a kind of castle and refuge for Greek fighters during difficult times for the nation. At the peak of its operation, it had 365 cells, one for each day of the year. The frescoes of the katholikon are stunning and attributed to the renowned Constantinopolitan artist of the Cretan School, Tzortzis, while valuable treasures are housed in the monastery library.The Dousiko Monastery is not the only legacy of Saint Vissarion in Pyli. He funded the construction of many stone bridges in the mountainous regions of Thessaly, and one of the most impressive lies just a few kilometers outside of Pyli. The Bridge of Pyli (also known as "Saint Vissarion's" or "Porta Panagia’s") is one of the largest single-arch bridges in Greece and remains in excellent condition.Image A Dreamlike BridgeA few kilometers past Pyli, crossing a narrow bridge at a spectacular point in the Portaikos valley marks the beginning of a route along the slopes of Koziakas (or “Kerketio”), passing through some of the most famous mountain resorts of Trikala: Elati, the Pertouli Meadows, and Pertouli (each deserving its own “chapter”). But before continuing along that route, a detour is a must at the signs pointing to Stournareika and the Palaiokarya Bridge. This stone bridge is perhaps the most beautiful and most photographed in Greece, as it stands in a magical setting with two waterfalls completing the fairytale scenery. In the settlement of the same name, you’ll find a traditional dristela (a water-powered fulling mill). A short detour will take you to Ropoto, the “sinking village” with its striking, tilted Church of the Dormition of the Virgin. Continuing westward along this route, passing through charming villages like Stournareika and Mesochora, you’ll eventually reach Tzoumerka and Arta.The “Therapeutic” MountainReturning to the “main” route, you’ll follow the slopes of Koziakas. Its forests are known for their rich fauna and the great variety of aromatic and medicinal herbs. According to myth, the god of medicine, Asclepius, roamed these wonderful landscapes in search of ingredients for his healing remedies.From Elati, the Pertouli Meadows, and Kori (among other options), trails lead to the Koziakas Mountain Refuge (Contact: +306939173337, +306979293482, +306977662569 & +306947819298), which opened in 1959 at an altitude of 1,750 meters. From the refuge, the highest peak, Astrapi, at 1,901 meters, is just a 30-minute hike away.Image Passage to the Vlach VillagesLeaving Pertouli behind, you’ve essentially (though not “officially”) entered the “territory” of the Aspropotamos, as the residents of the next Kozias villages share Vlach heritage and common traditions with the “true” Aspropotamians. The first village after Pertouli is the region’s third tourist hub, the beautiful Neraidochori, amphitheatrically built on a slope—like all the villages from this point on—and offering excellent accommodations. Below the village, in the Kamniaitis valley, you’ll find the stone bridge of Hatzipetros near a well-preserved section of the old “Vlachostrata”. Asking locals will greatly help you locate them.Continuing westward, you'll come across the impressive stone-built church of Saint Paraskevi overlooking the entire valley. A few meters ahead, you’ll enjoy the panoramic view of the very “steep” Pyrrha, where it’s worth seeking out the Church of Saint Modestos with its reddish dome and beautiful frescoes.Image The next village is also steep—Desi. To its north, in the Kremasti area, look for the towering waterfall, especially in spring when the waters flow vigorously. South of Desi, below the road, is the village of Agios Nikolaos (formerly "Kamniai") and nearly across from it, “drowned” in vegetation, is Drosochori (formerly "Tyfloseli"), where you’ll find another waterfall known as “Mana tou Nerou” (Mother of Water).Always heading west, a bit further on you’ll see to your right the very unique church of Saint Nikolaos Asfakas, “wedged” into an imposing vertical rock. Just a few more kilometers and you’ll reach Aleksiou Bridge, which means you’re now, officially, in Aspropotamos!
