PYLI - KOZIAKAS - Timeless Passage Rarely is the true image of a place so faithfully reflected in a place name as in the case of Pyli, which is exactly what its name says. A door, a passage from the plain of Trikala to the mountainous region of Southern Pindos. But don't rush to cross it! In Byzantine times, the settlement was located on the northern bank of the Portaikos (or "Portiatis") river, where today we find the district and the wonderful church of Porta Panagia. At that time it was called Megalai Pylai, a name that in the years of Ottoman rule gave way to "Porta Pazar". The modern settlement "crossed over", to a naturally cool and shady place.Religious monumentsToday's town has the charming, leisurely atmosphere of the Greek countryside and it is worth taking a walk in its narrow streets. But the most impressive sight is located in the old "haunts" that you will pass through by crossing a pedestrian bridge 120 meters long and 2 meters wide. You can also get there by car from another, nearby bridge. Where Megalai Pylai was located, you will find a Byzantine masterpiece, the church of the Virgin Mary, better known as "Porta Panagia", a three-aisled, vaulted, cross-roofed basilica. It was the catholicon of a stauropegic monastery founded in 1283. Image On this side of the river, a little further away, about 5 km from Pyli, at an altitude of 650 meters on the slopes of Koziakas, is another very important religious monument, the Monastery of Agios Vissarionos Dousikou. It was founded in 1535 by the most prominent child of Pyli, Agios Vissarion (patron saint of Pyli, Trikala and Kalambaka), at the time when he was Metropolitan of Larissa. It is one of the few monasteries outside Mount Athos in which the avaton applies, that is, women are prohibited from entering after a recorded wish of its founder.Externally, it resembles a fortress – indeed it was something like a castle and refuge for Greek fighters in times difficult for the nation. In its heyday, it had 365 cells, as many as the days of the year. The hagiography of the Katholikon is impressive and is attributed to the famous Constantinopolitan artist of the Cretan School, Tzortzis, while valuable treasures are also hidden in the Library.The Dousikou Monastery is not the only legacy of Agios Vissarionos in Pyli. He financed the construction of many stone bridges in the mountains of Thessaly, and one of the most impressive is located a few kilometers outside of Pyli. The bridge of Pyli (also known as "Agios Vissarionos" or "Porta Panagias") is one of the largest single-arched bridges in Greece and is maintained in excellent condition. Image Dreamy BridgeA few km after Pyli, crossing a narrow bridge in an impressive spot in the valley of the Portaikos, marks the beginning of the route that follows the slopes of Koziakas (or "Kerketios") and passes through the most famous mountain resorts of Trikala, Elati, Livadakia Pertouliou and Pertouli (which are separate "chapters"). But before continuing on this road, a detour is required to the point where the signs point to Stournareika and Palaiokarya bridge. This stone bridge is perhaps the most beautiful and most photographed in Greece, as it is located in a magical location with two waterfalls ideally complementing the fairytale setting. In the settlement of the same name you will find a traditional dristella ("water mill"), while if you continue on this impressive route, passing through beautiful villages, such as Stournareika and Mesochora, you will reach Tzoumerka and Arta.The "Healing" MountainReturning to the "central" route, you will follow the slopes of Koziakas. Its forests are characterized by very rich fauna and a large variety of aromatic and medicinal herbs. According to myth, the god of Medicine, Asclepius wandered in these wonderful landscapes in search of the raw materials for his healing "preparations".From Elati, Livadia Pertouliou and Kori (there are other alternatives), paths lead to the Kozikas Mountain Refuge (Contact tel.: 6939173337, 6979293482, 6977662569 & 6947819298), which was inaugurated in 1959 at 1750 meters altitude. From the refuge, the highest peak, Astrapi, at 1901 meters, is only 30 minutes walk away. Image Passage to the Vlach VillagesLeaving Pertouli behind, in essence (but not "typically") you have entered the "territory" of Aspropotamos, as the inhabitants of the next villages of Koziakas share the Vlach origin and common traditions with the "actual" Aspropotamites. The first village after Pertouli, is the third tourist pole of the area, the beautiful Neraidochori, which spreads amphitheatrically on a slope – like all the villages from here on – and has very good infrastructure. Below the village, in the valley of Kamniaitis, you will find the stone bridge of Hatzipetros near the very well-preserved part of the old "Vlachostrata". Asking the locals will make it much easier to find them.Continuing in a westerly direction, you will find the stone-built church of Agia Paraskevi in an impressive location overlooking the entire valley. A few meters further you will enjoy the panoramic view of the very "downhill" Pyrra, where it is worth looking for the church of Agios Modestos with the reddish dome and the beautiful hagiographies.Next village, the also "downhill" Desi, to the north of which, in the position Kremasti, it is worth looking for the towering waterfall, especially in the spring when the waters run rapidly. South of Desi, below the road is the village Agios Nikolaos (old name "Kamniai") and almost opposite, "drowned" in the vegetation Drosochori (old name "Tyfloseli"), where you will find another waterfall, the "Mother of the Water".Always heading west, a little further down you will see on your right hand side the very special church of Agios Nikolaos Asfakas, "wedged" into an imposing vertical rock. A few kilometers now separate you from Gefyra Alexiou, where you know now that you are "with a bill" in Aspropotamos!
