ARGITHEA - At the heart of Agrafa Argithea and Agrafa: two regions inextricably bound together. They bear a profound historical legacy, are dotted with significant monuments – primarily religious ones – and cradle vast expanses of unspoiled, ‘virgin’ nature. It’s no wonder they stand as one of Greece’s most celebrated destinations for walkers and trekkers. "Wild" and "untamed" are two words that often cling to Agrafa, ever since the days when attempts to list it in Ottoman tax records proved futile, effectively wiping it 'off the map'. This region has always been a heartland of resistance, from the long years of Ottoman rule and the dark days of the German Occupation right up to the present, where locals fiercely oppose the installation of wind turbines. It remains one of Greece's most remote and rugged corners, especially during the harsh winter months. But this isolation isn't necessarily a drawback. Here, nature endures untouched, pristine, and utterly magnificent. The way of life for the few remaining inhabitants feels like stepping out of a time capsule. Visitors get a potent taste of "old Greece" – a spirit unyielding in the face of hardship, a constant dialogue with the elements of nature, an unwavering love for the land, and a pure, selfless hospitality offered without expectation. Image Argithea isn't for everyone, nor is it for those seeking creature comforts and luxury. It will capture the hearts of the initiated, the mindful travellers, the lovers of authentic experiences and genuine adventure – those who don't mind stepping outside their comfort zone. With its countless deep gorges and just as many towering peaks (seven soaring above 2,000 meters), blanketed in dense forests of fir, beech, chestnut, cedar, oak, and holm oak, nature enthusiasts and hikers will discover their ultimate playground. The ever-helpful members of the Hellenic Mountaineering Club (EOS) of Karditsa (tel: +30 6940794395 & +30 6974110853) can offer guidance or even welcome visitors on their excursions. Travellers will also find sparsely populated villages scattered across the landscape, historic monasteries, dozens of enchanting stone bridges, and Greece's youngest natural lake, Stefaniada, formed dramatically in 1963 when the 'Stoichio' mountainside broke away from Mount Sminiko, damming a tributary of the Acheloos River. Argithea is broadly divided into two (plus one) areas, Eastern and Western, accessible via two main routes, the southern and northern, respectively. Both journeys begin from Mouzaki – and heed this warning: fill your vehicle's fuel tank here, because you won't find another petrol station once you venture deep into the mountains. Depending on the season and weather conditions, these two routes can connect further west via a passable dirt road, just before reaching the Acheloos valley, which essentially forms a third 'sub-region'. In winter, however, making this connection becomes challenging, if not impossible. Image Eastern ArgitheaFollowing the southern route, the first village you'll encounter after crossing the Oxya pass is picturesque Vlasi, perched at 1060 meters on the slopes of Mount Karava. Opposite lies one of the region's largest and most renowned villages, Petrilo, also known as "Ta Petrilia" due to its scattered settlements. Until 1821, Petrilia boasted a population of 5,000 souls. In 1944, its Primary School served as the seat of the wartime 'Government of the Mountains'. At its heart lies the Monastery of the Nativity of the Theotokos – though locals persistently call it by its old name: Monastery of Agios Charalambos. In the Haris neighbourhood stands the stone-built Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos, one of 19 churches dotted among the hamlets. Traditionally, the faithful return in the summer, some from Schimatari, others from Larissa. The people of Vlasi migrated closer – they now ascend from Mouzaki. In Drosato, you'll find a beautiful stone bridge, while in Petrochori and the nearby pastoral settlements of Patlia and Evakli, it's worth seeking out authentic local Agrafa feta cheese and the unique tsalafouti, a soft, creamy cheese. In neighbouring Leontito, once a hideout for the armatolos Karaiskakis, the village square is dominated by a colossal plane tree, reputed to be 1,000 years old! A little further west lies an "eagle's nest of faith," the most significant pilgrimage site in the area, the Monastery of Spilia (Cave Monastery). The final stop on this route is Lake Stefaniada, where, with the help of Finix Adventures (tel. +30 6977663453) and the intrepid Vasiliki Koimtzidou, you can indulge in numerous outdoor activities – a possibility that extends throughout the wider region. Image Western ArgitheaThe second, northern route requires crossing Tympanos, the passage over the infamous mountain saddle which is to Thessaly what the notorious "Katara Pass" is to Epirus. Crossing it during the winter months is extremely difficult without snow chains and strictly prohibited after dark. Over the years, many Argitheans have tragically lost their lives to avalanches while attempting the passage. To honour their memory, the Municipality of Argithea has erected the "Memorial to Argitheans Lost Unjustly in the Snows" at this poignant spot.The first village along this route is Argithea itself, which, despite its name, isn't the municipal 'capital', as its permanent residents can be counted on one hand. About 3 km further lies the junction of Agorasia, where two traditional cafes operate. Here you can grab a simple bite, stock up on cigarettes and snacks, and even purchase petrol by the canister in an emergency. This is also the turn-off for Karya, while its famous stone bridge (also known as "Trizolos", or "Trizol'" to locals), the largest in Thessaly, is located a short distance further on. Just before Agorasia, steps lead up to the necropolis of ancient Argithea, a remnant of the capital of the ancient Athamanes tribe. Shortly after Agorasia, a right turn leads to Anthiro, the most vibrant village in the area and the administrative seat of the Municipality of Argithea. Here you'll find an interesting Ecclesiastical museum, cafes, tavernas, a mini-market, a trout farm, watermills, and the beautiful springs of Gkoura. It has it all! Just 3 km north of Anthiro lies the impressive but deserted 17th-century Katosio Monastery. Image Returning to the 'main' road and heading downhill, just before crossing the Liaskovitiko stream, an exit on the right leads to Petroto (formerly known as "Liaskovo"), and continues, running almost parallel to the Acheloos riverbed, towards Kali Komi, with its church of Agios Nikolaos, and Ellinika. From Ellinika, via a dirt road and a rather challenging 2km footpath, you can reach the stunning Korakonissi bridge.After this detour, you'll cross the Liaskovitiko stream via the metal bridge, and on your right, you'll spot one of the most beautiful stone bridges in the region, that of Petroto. From here on, passing through tunnels carved directly into the bare rock, you'll finally descend into the Acheloos valley. Image The Acheloos ValleyThe controversial, unfinished dam at Sykia divides the Acheloos valley into two sections. To the north, it remains quite narrow, while slightly further south, it begins to widen. Immediately after exiting the last tunnel before the settlement of Sykia, look across the river to see the Koulia (an Ottoman watchtower) that once stood beside the legendary Korakos bridge. This was once the largest single-arched bridge in Greece, boasting an arch span of 45 meters and a height of 25 meters. It connected Thessaly with Epirus from 1514 until it was tragically blown up during the Greek Civil War with 61 kilograms of dynamite. Image In Neochoria Vrangianon, you can see the old 'perataria' (an aerial pulley system), a hand-operated 'cable car' that crosses high above the Acheloos, linking Karditsa with Arta, Epirus with Thessaly. It officially operated until 1997 with an appointed operator – the 'perataris' – employed by the Karditsa Prefecture. A little further up, in Vrangiana, the seat of the former Acheloos Municipality, electricity only arrived in 1981. The 150 families that once lived here have dwindled to around 200 people engaged in farming and livestock breeding, living alongside their local treasure, the Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Saviour.The most lively village in this part of the valley is Argyri, very close to the 'border' with Evrytania. It boasts a cafe and a school, and is inhabited by young people who, swimming 'against the current', choose to spend their winters in their homeland and their summers working in tourism on the islands. Seven kilometres south of Argyri, at the 'quadripoint' where Karditsa, Evrytania, Aetoloakarnania, and Arta meet, the magnificent, four-arched stone bridge of Katafylli – Avlaki, spanning the turquoise waters of the Acheloos, serves as a spectacular finish line for the challenging yet deeply captivating exploration of the Thessalian Agrafa. Image
