TYRNAVOS - Tsipouro gladdens the heart… Famous local products that have become synonymous with this agricultural area on the edge of the Thessalian plain, and a Dionysian, “provocative” custom, are the reasons for which Tyrnavos is known. However, the area holds several “secrets” for those willing to explore it. Approximately 18 km from Larissa, a straight road, at the northern edge of the Thessalian plain, the "monotonous," flat landscape begins to change. There, where the curves of the "barren" Melouna and the unobstructed view of Olympus and Kissavos pique the interest in the traveler's eye, next to the tributary of the Pineios River, Xerias (or "Titarrisios") with its multi-arched bridge, lies Tyrnavos, the fifth largest city in Thessaly. Image Many of the local products, pears, peaches, even feta cheese, are known for their quality, but, let's be honest, Tyrnavos is synonymous with viticulture and its intoxicating derivatives. "Everything vineyards!" is a wish that is still common when glasses are clinked, which means "may we be well to put all the fields in vineyards!" And they tend to succeed! In a relatively small geographical area, the vineyards occupy 25,000 acres, about 50% of the total vineyard area of Thessaly. Although various varieties are cultivated, the absolute protagonist is Moschato Tyrnavou, as the variety Moschato Amvourgou has been officially called since 2013. The core of wine production is the Tyrnavos Wine Cooperative, which numbers approximately 500 members, but new, modern, visitable wineries are constantly being added, while in recent years the orientation seems to be changing from "simple" wines for the family table to more "savvy" proposals. Image Tsipouro, with or without?Even more famous than the Tyrnavos wines is the Tyrnavos tsipouro, with or without anise. From mid-autumn, when the hundreds of kazanis (stills) start up and the boiling begins, and for the next two months, approximately, the intoxicating fragrances of moschato flood the city. Small celebrations are set up at the kazanis of the private distillers (also called "two-day" due to the special distillation license they receive) with the cheerfulness rising after a small tour from kazani to kazani. The hundreds of tons of tsipouro produced by the "small" private individuals and the "large" distilleries (700 tons are produced by the Cooperative alone) are distributed in Greece and abroad. The Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) TSIPOURO TYRNAVOU has been recognized by a European Regulation since 1989, and in fact it is the only Greek city-municipality that has such recognition at a European level, as the other geographical indications recognized by our country concern entire departments of Greece. Tyrnavos also has a recognized geographical indication OUZO Tyrnavou. Few people know that Ouzo, the distillate that was once known as "re-boiled raki," was "baptized" in Tyrnavos in the 19th century during the last years of Ottoman rule in Thessaly. You can learn much more about Tyrnavos distillates at the Museum of Vine - Wine - House of Man (Tel. 2492350100), in the Karassos Mansion, one of the most beautiful buildings in the city. Image The "old" wealthIn addition to the vineyards, the famous fabrics of Tyrnavos once brought wealth to the town. Already in the 18th century, the Tyrnavites learned the art of dyeing and processing yarns. With their large production of cocoons, they produced first-class silk and gradually developed their trade and flourished. The silk yarns of the city were exported even abroad, while the masterful, original "stambota" (printed silks) of Tyrnavos were sought after in every mansion in Thessaly, and beyond. The art of "stambota" was, unfortunately, abandoned around the 1960s. Today, very few survive, mainly as family heirlooms. Architecturally, the traces of this "old" wealth are not clear. Few mansions survive, and among them stands out the mansion of Georgios Kalakallas, the late Tyrnavite sculptor and professor of the Higher School of Fine Arts, next to the church of Agia Paraskevi, with its elaborate wood ties, sakhnisia (projecting enclosed balconies), and the intense ocher color, which is in need of immediate maintenance. Other sights of the city include the church of Panagia Faneromeni (17th century), the multi-arched bridge of Xerias (19th century) and right next to it the old Ottoman hamam (15th century). Image Bourani and CarnivalThe most important "sight" of the city is, of course, the Bourani, the famous carnival custom, a daring ritual of Dionysian origins, unsuitable for the prudish, which is organized on the morning of Clean Monday on the hill of Prophet Elias, before "descending" at noon to the squares of the city. The previous evening, the Tyrnavos Carnival, one of the 4-5 largest in Greece, is organized. It may seem like an "oxymoron," but next to the area where the "licentious" Bourani is organized is the most important religious monument in the area, the Monastery of Prophet Elias (probably of the 17th century). In the same area is the Dasaki of Ai-Lias, one of the favorite recreation and sports areas of the locals. A little higher and further east is Lousfaki ("small hill"), an extension of Melouna, where you will see scattered, abandoned "Kazarms," that is, military outposts that oversaw the border between Greece and the Ottoman Empire between 1881 and 1912 on the "Melouna Line" (also known as the "Berlin Line" from the homonymous Treaty of 1878). "Below" the southernmost Kazarms is the "Trypimeni," an impressive natural arch. To the west is Damasi (which was severely affected by the 2021 earthquake), one of the largest villages in the Municipality, above which is a castle that impresses with the area it occupies. Little is known about this castle, which was probably built during Byzantine times. Image The lakes of TyrnavosA few kilometers north of the city are the two small lakes in the area. Vrysi is one of the most popular recreational areas, while Mati Tyrnavou (or "Mati Argyropouliou"), despite its small size, is an important biotope, where large quantities of crayfish were once fished. Argyroupouli is another important settlement that is famous for its beautiful square, the church of Zoodochos Pigi and its taverns.Leaving Argyroupouli and after passing Deleria, you will reach Rodia, another "must" stop for meat-eaters. A few kilometers east of Rodia, the Pineios River passes through some straits, forming beautiful meanders and impressive landscapes. The last stop on the tour is Ampelonas, the second largest settlement in the Municipality of Tyrnavos. In the beautiful market town, two stone buildings stand out, the imposing church of the Dormition of the Theotokos and the old Town Hall. Ampelonas is characterized by large open spaces, beautiful avenues with rows of trees, and the park of Agios Georgios where the Wine Festival is organized every September with multi-day cultural events. Image Tyrnavos and cultureDespite the fact that Tyrnavos is an almost purely agricultural area, it knows rich cultural activity. Dozens of associations, cultural, educational, dance, choirs, theater groups, and musical groups are active in the area.The Vlachs of the area with their associations and customs play an important role. A large part of the population of Tyrnavos traces its origins to the Vlach villages of Vasilitsa Grevena (Samarina, Smixi, Avdella) while many of the Argyroupoulites are Arvanitovlachs (or "Arvantovlachs") with a more distant origin from the areas of Konitsa, Pogoni, and Grammos. Their harmonious coexistence with the "native" Tyrnavites, enriches and "colors" the cultural burden of an, in any case, historical area.
