Kazarmes ("outposts") in Lousfaki, Tyrnavos

For 31 years, in the late 19th and early 20th century, Tyrnavos was the last — northernmost — city of Greece. Some ruined buildings in Lousfaki, the hill to the east of the city, tell the story of those turbulent years.

Between 1881 and 1912, Greece "ended" in Tyrnavos. The borders of that time between the Kingdom of Greece and the Ottoman Empire had been determined by the Treaty of Berlin in 1878 (Article 24). They started from Platamonas in the east and added to Greek territory almost all of Thessaly that was still under Turkish occupation (except for the province of Elassona and the region of Damasi, which today belongs to the Municipality of Tyrnavos) and a small part of Epirus (the area of Arta).

The borderline passed "just by" Tyrnavos, crossing the ridge of — known from Thanasis Papakonstantinou’s “Andromeda” — the “barren” Melouna. It became known as the “Melouna Line”, while the expression “Greece of Melouna” was used derogatorily to describe the limited territorial extent of the modern Greek state, in contrast to the grandiose aspirations of the supporters and members of the Ethniki Etaireia (National Society), a secret paramilitary organization of the time.

One of the most important battles of the unfortunate Greco-Turkish War of 1897 took place on the “Melouna Line,” which led to a humiliating defeat for the Greek forces on April 18 of the same year and resulted in the temporary recapture of Tyrnavos by the Turks for about two months. It seems that the “small” Greece of that time was not ready for “great ideas.”

The Kazarmes – Border outposts

On the southern foothills of Melouna, in Lousfaki, you will find scattered ruins of Kazarmes — the border guard posts of that era. To get there, head east from Tyrnavos, pass by the little forest of Agios Ilias and the Monastery of Prophet Ilias, navigate some uphill hairpin turns, and reach the highest point of the “inner” road that leads from the city to Damasi. There, at the ridge, right next to the road, you will find the first Kazarma.

After about 10–15 minutes of walking southward, you’ll come upon the second and smaller Kazarma. High up in the distance, even further south, you’ll see — like little teeth on a ridge — the third and most impressive site. You’ll need 1 to 1.5 hours of uphill hiking on quite rough terrain to reach it, but your effort will be rewarded with the most striking of the Kazarmes (locals call it a “Castle”) and breathtaking panoramic views in all directions.

Another border station from that era lies on the other side of Melouna, to the north, very close to the ridge where the Tyrnavos–Elassona road passes. Similar structures can also be found on the slopes of Lower Olympus.