Manolis Forlidas – Keeping the Name Alive

Mr. Forlidas, at 84 years of age, is the proprietor of the namesake café nestled in the village of Lafkos in South Pelion. It's a place whispered about in historical circles; the "Forlidas" café is considered the oldest continuously operating coffee house not just in Greece, but across the Balkans, having served patrons without interruption since the remarkable year of 1785. You'll find it rightfully featured on lists chronicling the most enduring businesses by country, throughout Europe and even the wider world.

Mr. Manolis represents the ninth generation of coffee makers here, faithfully continuing the family tradition that began the very day the café first opened its doors. Imagine, he has spent his entire life amidst these ancient stone walls, which have long served as a special meeting ground for both the village locals and curious travellers passing through. I had to ask him, what does this café mean to him? "The café," he reflected, "is a space for communication, for expression, for letting the mind wander, and for relaxation. The permanent residents make their way here daily to discuss politics, to talk over the problems that occupy their minds, their anxieties, their joys, their heartaches, and their sorrows. Things are certainly brighter in the summer, as the village bursts with life and everyone seeks the quiet embrace of the countryside. But come winter," he added with a knowing look, "we've grown accustomed to being just a small gathering."

Over its centuries-spanning history, the 'Kafenio tou Forlida' has, at various times, been a cherished retreat for significant figures from the world of letters and the arts. One can almost picture Alexandros Papadiamantis sitting here, or Kostas Varnalis visiting during his time as headmaster in the neighbouring town of Argalasti. It's fascinating to think of the poet Giorgos Seferis finding inspiration, or Alexandros Delmouzos, then director of the Volos Girls' School, and the writer Zisimos Lorentzatos spending time within these very walls. The air hums with the echoes of past conversations.

Should your own travels lead you to Lafkos, you'll find Mr. Manolis present at the café almost every day, a constant from 7 in the morning until 9 in the evening, pausing only for that essential afternoon 'siesta'. A truly unique window into living history.