Trikeri, the southernmost Pelion

Perched on the top of Fourtouna Hill, about 300 meters above sea level, Trikeri, with its splendid views over both the Aegean and the Pagasetic Gulf, resembles the “Chora” of an island. Everything at this southern edge of Magnesia recalls an island. Until the 1970s, when the road connecting Trikeri with Milina and the rest of Pelion was opened, the main way of communicating with the “outside” world was by sea, through its port of Agia Kyriaki. 

The village, with around 700 inhabitants, appears to have been founded in the 17^th century when most of the residents of the island Palio Trikeri (or “Palia Trikera” to the locals) were forced to abandon it after repeated pirate raids. It continued the strong maritime tradition of the islet, and by 1821 it boasted one of the largest merchant fleets in Greece, part of which took part in the revolution. 

The settlement, declared a protected traditional village in 1967, has a distinct defensive character, evident in both its urban layout and its tower-houses. Several mansions survive with Macedonian-style covered balconies (hagiati) and vivid colors, while the neighborhood of Agioi Anargyroi still preserves a largely “old-world” atmosphere. Particularly interesting are the churches of Agios Athanasios (1799) and Agia Triada. At Agia Triada you can also see the so-called “Throne of Napoleon”, which according to legend was purchased by Trikeri merchants in Barcelona after a canceled visit by Bonaparte, “for a few staters of wheat.”

Palio Trikeri

A few kilometers north of the village lies the beach and the small port of Alogoporos. Here you leave your car and board a sea taxi, which in just 5 minutes takes you to the islet of Palio Trikeri. The island was already inhabited in antiquity (most likely the Mycenaean Kikinthos), as evidenced by scattered archaeological remains. 

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Covering just 2.5 sq. km, lush with olive groves, home to about 80 residents and no cars at all, it is a tranquil, “hidden” paradise for those seeking seclusion and peace. Through its network of footpaths, you can walk across the entire island within a few hours and reach some of its small beaches (Prasini Ammos, Agios Georgios, Afetka, and Agia Sofia). At the small harbor you’ll find picturesque fish tavernas serving fresh seafood and fish, as well as moorings for 6–7 sailing boats. 

At the island’s highest point lies its most important sight, the Monastery of the Annunciation (Evangelistria) (1837), with its fortress-like structure and beautiful courtyard surrounded by monks’ cells. Monks no longer reside here; instead, the island’s inhabitants care for the monastery. It is said that Greta Garbo once stayed here. Accommodation is possible, at around 15 euros per night (shared toilets), upon arrangement by calling +302423055207.

Shortly before the end of the Civil War and for several years after (1948–1953), Palio Trikeri was used as a place of exile for women. It is estimated that around 5,000 women endured the hardship of deportation under very harsh conditions during this period. The kitchen and small theater built by the exiles still survive. Every year, in mid-June, those still alive return and lay a wreath at a commemorative plaque erected in the settlement. 

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Agia Kyriaki, the port

Just 4 km from Trikeri lies its maritime “gateway,” the fishing village of Agia Kyriaki, with its charming little harbor, boats, and fish tavernas creating a distinctly “island-like” atmosphere. At the western edge of the settlement, the impressive traditional shipyard continues the area’s great shipbuilding tradition, where in the 18^th and 19^th centuries even sailing ships were constructed! 

With its slow rhythms and tranquility, Agia Kyriaki is a beloved stop for skippers before they head out for more “cosmopolitan” adventures in the Sporades.