Hiking in Alonissos

The landscape’s variety and the diversity of vegetation are truly remarkable and will impress even beginners. Dense pine forests, low shrubs, aromatic herbs, kermes oaks, junipers, strawberry trees, along with delightful viewpoints, generously offer spiritual uplift to the hiker. 

Among the dozens of routes, the easiest and most enjoyable hike is the descent from Chora (Old Alonissos) to the port (Patitiri). The trail starts at the bus stop, leads downhill through orchards, and takes no more than 45 minutes. For a first encounter with the island, we suggest 3 routes of varying duration and difficulty.

1. Old Alonissos – Kalovoulo Summit (1 hour)

From the bus stop in Chora, follow the asphalt road in the opposite direction of Patitiri. Pass the cemetery, where the road splits, and take the left fork. At the next junction, after about 200 m, turn left again. After a few meters, you'll see the cobbled entrance to the trail on your right, which leads to the summit of Kalovoulo, a mountain worth climbing for its name alone – not to mention the beautiful views toward Chora and Skopelos. 

The trail begins with a gentle incline, then continues with a mild uphill traverse through pines. On your left, you’ll already have a splendid view of Old Alonissos. The path leads to a saddle–plateau where you'll find an old ruined sheepfold. From here, the final short ascent leads to the summit, marked by a concrete trig point of the Hellenic Military Geographical Service. Descend via the same trail.

2. Patitiri – Old Alonissos – Megalos Mourtias – Patitiri (2 ½ hours)

From the port, head right – facing the sea. Soon, the road turns right, leaving the harbor behind. After about 500 meters, a small road climbs to the left. A sign points to “Chora.” This is where the trail begins, leading you uphill to Old Alonissos. At several points, the path crosses minor roads, which you can ignore. Continue along the trail, and in about 20 minutes you’ll reach the asphalt road, which you follow to enter Chora. 

From the bus stop, continue on the road through the village, then turn left downhill just before the guesthouse “Fantasia.” At the end of the alley, turn left onto the paved road, and after passing 5–6 houses on your right, turn right onto the steep downhill lane. This road crosses the lower section of Chora before joining the road to Megalos Mourtias beach. After about 200 m downhill, you’ll find a sharp right bend. At the middle of the bend, a path turns left and descends to the beach. (You can, of course, continue along the road if you prefer). From Megalos Mourtias, boats sometimes run to Patitiri, so ask the boatmen at the dock or the staff at the tavernas about the schedule. 

To return on foot to Patitiri, go to the taverna at the far left end of the beach (as you face the sea) and follow the path that climbs the hill. You’ll soon reach a dirt road that leads through a lovely forest to Patitiri. After 1 km, you’ll reach a paved road. Turn left and continue for another 1 km toward the port. 

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3. Patitiri – Mega Nero – Agioi Anargyroi – Tourkoneri – Mega Nero (3 hours)

This is the route that passes through some of the most picturesque spots on the island. It impresses both seasoned hikers and budding nature lovers. Begin by walking uphill along the road to Chora, then turn right onto the lane leading to the Atrium Hotel. Go past the hotel entrance, and where the road ends, take the path that climbs to the left. Pass a few houses. After the last one, turn right onto the trail through the pine forest. Stay on this main trail, ignoring all side paths. Ahead, you’ll see the peak of the small but lush green hill, Tourkovigla, which points you in the right direction.

Soon, you’ll walk alongside a low stone wall. When it ends, take the right fork and continue straight through olive groves toward the small summit of Tourkovigla. A short, winding descent follows, leading to the spring of Mega Nero. 

With your back to the spring, take the dirt road to the left. After 200 m, it merges with a larger road; follow it again to the left. Soon you’ll reach the junction toward “Tsoukalia.” Follow this direction, keeping right at the next fork. Continue straight, ignoring other junctions, and after 500 m take the upward fork to the right. Leave the house on your right, and a bit further on, along a particularly beautiful trail, you’ll reach the small chapel of Agioi Anargyroi. The setting is truly idyllic. Continue in front of the chapel, descend through the forest to a house, and then turn right to reach Tourkoneri beach.

For the return, follow the dirt road uphill from Tourkoneri. Turn right at the next dirt road and immediately left onto the uphill path (there is a paint marker). You’ll reach another dirt road – turn right here. After about ten minutes, the road curves left. Another painted marker indicates the trail that eventually leads to the asphalt road, where you turn right. After 500 m, take the smaller road that continues straight to the Mega Nero spring. From here, you can return to Patitiri or continue toward Chora. 

Text: Giannis Drenogiannis