Seasons

Vizitsa could be an open-air museum of Pelion architecture as about twenty restored three-story mansions from the late 18th to the mid-19th century survive. Built with local stone and slabs, with hayatia (covered balconies), odades (reception rooms), wooden floors, wood-carved decorations, and with elaborate courtyards, whether walled or not, smaller outbuildings such as an oven, a house for the overseer, and a stable, the mansions of Vizitsa uniquely emphasize the culture and the unique tradition of the place. The painted map in the outdoor parking lot will inform you about their location and how to find them.

The "critical" moment for maintaining the architectural character of the settlement was in 1976 when the Hellenic Tourism Organization (EOT) included, with the consent of the owners, several of the buildings in a restoration and preservation program, turning them into traditional guesthouses, which took the names of their old or newer owners such as Kontou, Karagiannopouly, Vergou, Kyriakopoulos, Dimou, Geroulanou.

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Square for an award

From the outdoor parking area, an uphill cobblestone path leads to the "heart" of the village, its wonderful square, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful in Pelion. The plane trees offer ample shade during the warmest months of the year and scattered fountains contribute to their coolness, while taverns and cafes will cover your most "earthly" needs. The square was declared a monument in 1967 and the rest of the settlement followed in 1976. Stone alleys spread out radially that will lead you to the various neighborhoods of the village, but also even further, to the verdant slopes that surround it. 

Returning to the parking area, you must not miss a visit to the church of Zoodochos Pigi. The church, a stone-built, three-aisled basilica, has a long and "turbulent" history. It was built in 1725, destroyed by the Turks in 1821, rebuilt just two years later, but suffered serious blows from the earthquakes of 1864, 1955, and 1957 and finally closed. It was restored in 2001 and has been operating normally ever since. The ancient wood-carved iconostasis in unusual blue tones is impressive, as are the small domes, which hide inverted jars that improve the acoustics.

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Very close to the church you will find the store of the Agrotourist Women's Cooperative of Vizitsa - "Esperides", where you can purchase delicious handmade treats, spoon sweets, tsitsiravla, pickles, pies, syropiasta, trachana, stafidopsoma, amygdalopites, tsourekia, etc.  In their welcoming workshop, you will learn their secrets. The women of the cooperative often undertake to "set up" tables, presenting the famous Pelion cuisine to official guests. They always make their village, but also the whole of Pelion, look good!

Brief historical review

Although Vizitsa is now one of the most well-known destinations of Pelion, it was once a "humble" district of Agios Georgios Nileias. Its first inhabitants are estimated to have settled here around 1650 AD. and must not have been more than 30 families. Fearing pirates, they remained on the unseen side of the mountain, and only when that fear subsided did they spread further east. With the opening of the central road in the 1970s, the village expanded southwards reaching a number of houses that today exceeds 300.

In Byzantine times, the settlement was located on the northern bank of the Portaikos (or "Portiatis") river, where today we find the district and the wonderful church of Porta Panagia. At that time it was called Megalai Pylai, a name that in the years of Ottoman rule gave way to "Porta Pazar". The modern settlement "crossed over", to a naturally cool and shady place.

Religious monuments

Today's town has the charming, leisurely atmosphere of the Greek countryside and it is worth taking a walk in its narrow streets. But the most impressive sight is located in the old "haunts" that you will pass through by crossing a pedestrian bridge 120 meters long and 2 meters wide. You can also get there by car from another, nearby bridge. Where Megalai Pylai was located, you will find a Byzantine masterpiece, the church of the Virgin Mary, better known as "Porta Panagia", a three-aisled, vaulted, cross-roofed basilica. It was the catholicon of a stauropegic monastery founded in 1283.

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On this side of the river, a little further away, about 5 km from Pyli, at an altitude of 650 meters on the slopes of Koziakas, is another very important religious monument, the Monastery of Agios Vissarionos Dousikou. It was founded in 1535 by the most prominent child of Pyli, Agios Vissarion (patron saint of Pyli, Trikala and Kalambaka), at the time when he was Metropolitan of Larissa. It is one of the few monasteries outside Mount Athos in which the avaton applies, that is, women are prohibited from entering after a recorded wish of its founder.

Externally, it resembles a fortress – indeed it was something like a castle and refuge for Greek fighters in times difficult for the nation. In its heyday, it had 365 cells, as many as the days of the year. The hagiography of the Katholikon is impressive and is attributed to the famous Constantinopolitan artist of the Cretan School, Tzortzis, while valuable treasures are also hidden in the Library.

The Dousikou Monastery is not the only legacy of Agios Vissarionos in Pyli. He financed the construction of many stone bridges in the mountains of Thessaly, and one of the most impressive is located a few kilometers outside of Pyli. The bridge of Pyli (also known as "Agios Vissarionos" or "Porta Panagias") is one of the largest single-arched bridges in Greece and is maintained in excellent condition.

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Dreamy Bridge

A few km after Pyli, crossing a narrow bridge in an impressive spot in the valley of the Portaikos, marks the beginning of the route that follows the slopes of Koziakas (or "Kerketios") and passes through the most famous mountain resorts of Trikala, Elati, Livadakia Pertouliou and Pertouli (which are separate "chapters"). But before continuing on this road, a detour is required to the point where the signs point to Stournareika and Palaiokarya bridge. This stone bridge is perhaps the most beautiful and most photographed in Greece, as it is located in a magical location with two waterfalls ideally complementing the fairytale setting. In the settlement of the same name you will find a traditional dristella ("water mill"), while if you continue on this impressive route, passing through beautiful villages, such as Stournareika and Mesochora, you will reach Tzoumerka and Arta.

The "Healing" Mountain

Returning to the "central" route, you will follow the slopes of Koziakas. Its forests are characterized by very rich fauna and a large variety of aromatic and medicinal herbs. According to myth, the god of Medicine, Asclepius wandered in these wonderful landscapes in search of the raw materials for his healing "preparations".

From Elati, Livadia Pertouliou and Kori (there are other alternatives), paths lead to the Kozikas Mountain Refuge (Contact tel.: 6939173337, 6979293482, 6977662569 & 6947819298), which was inaugurated in 1959 at 1750 meters altitude. From the refuge, the highest peak, Astrapi, at 1901 meters, is only 30 minutes walk away.

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Passage to the Vlach Villages

Leaving Pertouli behind, in essence (but not "typically") you have entered the "territory" of Aspropotamos, as the inhabitants of the next villages of Koziakas share the Vlach origin and common traditions with the "actual" Aspropotamites. The first village after Pertouli, is the third tourist pole of the area, the beautiful Neraidochori, which spreads amphitheatrically on a slope – like all the villages from here on – and has very good infrastructure. Below the village, in the valley of Kamniaitis, you will find the stone bridge of Hatzipetros near the very well-preserved part of the old "Vlachostrata". Asking the locals will make it much easier to find them.

Continuing in a westerly direction, you will find the stone-built church of Agia Paraskevi in an impressive location overlooking the entire valley. A few meters further you will enjoy the panoramic view of the very "downhill" Pyrra, where it is worth looking for the church of Agios Modestos with the reddish dome and the beautiful hagiographies.

Next village, the also "downhill" Desi, to the north of which, in the position Kremasti, it is worth looking for the towering waterfall, especially in the spring when the waters run rapidly. South of Desi, below the road is the village Agios Nikolaos (old name "Kamniai") and almost opposite, "drowned" in the vegetation Drosochori (old name "Tyfloseli"), where you will find another waterfall, the "Mother of the Water".

Always heading west, a little further down you will see on your right hand side the very special church of Agios Nikolaos Asfakas, "wedged" into an imposing vertical rock. A few kilometers now separate you from Gefyra Alexiou, where you know now that you are "with a bill" in Aspropotamos!

Mount Kissavos (also known as "Ossa") captivates from afar. Its peak forms an almost perfect, natural pyramid, often crowned with an "eternal" cloud. At its "alpine" altitudes, just a few hundred meters below the summit of Prophet Elias (1,978 m), the mountain is bare yet gentle on the eyes, thanks to its smooth slopes. Compared to its neighboring Mount Olympus (a comparison that will always be made!), Kissavos feels more "friendly" and closer to human scale.

Up close and at lower altitudes, it becomes even more impressive. Its dense forests and rich flora have earned it the nickname "botanical garden". Frequent mists and abundant running waters give it a fairytale-like character, sparking human imagination since ancient times. Numerous myths are associated with it. Over the years, it has been considered the birthplace of nymphs, the final resting place of the demigod Heracles, and a possible passage of the goddess Demeter to the Underworld.

The scenery is complemented by a cluster of picturesque villages, breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea, and proximity to some of the most popular beaches in Larissa. Here, the dilemma of "mountain or sea" doesn't even arise; visitors can enjoy both! Kissavos offers a place with mild tourist development, ideal for those seeking quiet holidays and a connection with nature. The area is perfect for various outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and canyoning.

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The Noble Agia

A journey to Kissavos begins at its foothills, from its "capital," Agia (also the "capital" of the coastline and Mavrovouni). This historically prosperous town owes its development to the fertile land surrounding it. In the 17th and 18th centuries, it was a significant center for cotton and silk production. Evidence of its past prosperity can be seen in the numerous mansions of the "Upper Town," such as those of Alexoulis (Kalypsous), Petrakis, Antoniou, Efstratiadis, Evroudis, Tzitzilieris, and the Kalogeros Tower. Most of these can be found along 25th March Street. Today, its wealth mainly comes from cherries, pears, and apples. Apples, in particular, are celebrated with special events every September. Daily life revolves around the bustling central square and the commercial pedestrian street starting from it. Nearby, you'll find the church of Saint Anthony, the town's patron saint. Behind its altar, look for the chains once used to tie the mentally ill and "possessed" until the early 20th century for "healing." Just outside Agia, to the east, lies an important religious monument, the Monastery of Saint Panteleimon, with a main church dating back to 1292.

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On the Southern Slopes

Close by, to the west and almost adjoining Agia, is one of Kissavos' most famous villages, Metaxochori (formerly known by its Slavic name "Retsiani," meaning "River Village"). Its modern name derives from the silk production that flourished during the 17th and 18th centuries, leaving behind magnificent mansions and "silk houses". Metaxochori lives up to its reputation with its stunning architecture, unique atmosphere, and beautiful square by the Amyros River. In recent decades, it has often been called the "village of artists," as many artists have chosen it as their permanent residence.

Higher up, the neighboring Megalovryso (formerly "Nivoliani") is also gaining an artistic vibe, especially since renowned Larissa-born artist Thanasis Papakonstantinou set up his recording studio "Achos" here. Megalovryso is a charming village with many stone houses, reportedly built by craftsmen from Epirus. From here, you could head east to the larger and more vibrant village of Melivoia, but before that, it's worth backtracking west to the highest village of Kissavos, Anatoli (formerly "Selitsani"), at an altitude of 960 meters. Many residents of Larissa have summer homes here, in a village renowned as a summer retreat since Ottoman times. Look for the stone bridge from 1860, the church of St. George with its flame-shaped windows, and the notable museum. A few kilometers west of the village lies the new Monastery of Timios Prodromos, near the ruins of the 1550 monastery. Managed by nuns from around the world, the monastery is known for its significant ecological and agrotourism initiatives. Between the monastery and the village, a rugged dirt road (accessible only with an off-road vehicle) leads to abandoned OTE installations and antennas. From there, the breathtaking view and easy access to the summit of Kissavos, with the "underground" chapel of Prophet Elias, make for an unforgettable experience—weather permitting, of course!

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A Balcony Overlooking the Aegean

With over 1,200 permanent residents, Melivoia could claim the title of "capital" of Kissavos, if not for Agia. This large village, with a long tradition in silk production and winemaking, is also renowned for its exceptional chestnuts. The view of the Agia plain, Mavrovouni, and, of course, the Aegean Sea is simply unique. A downhill road—with its fair share of twists and turns—connects you to the popular beaches of Velika, Sotiritsa, and Agiokampos.

Melivoia also serves as the "gateway" to the Aesthetic Forest of Ossa. Spanning over 20,000 hectares, this is the largest of its kind in Greece and a protected area under the "NATURA 2000" network. Dense mixed forests of beech, oak, chestnut, and fir invite exploration by car, but even better on foot. Especially in autumn, the vibrant colors of the mixed vegetation enchant visitors. On this eastern side of the mountain lies one of its most spectacular "secrets," the impressive Kalypso Waterfall. Located near Karitsa, a village that feels like a balcony over the Aegean, the waterfall can be reached by following a relatively easy dirt road heading south from the village. After about 5 kilometers, you'll find signs marking the short and easy (20–30 minutes) trail to the waterfall, where you can enjoy a refreshing swim in its natural pools. Alternatively, you can take a dip in the therapeutic springs of Kokkino Nero, just a short distance from Karitsa. Nearby, you'll also find the stone bridge of Paparizaina.

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Crossing to the "Other" Side

Leaving Karitsa and heading north, you can reach Stomio and the delta of the Pineios River. Just before Stomio, it's worth making a stop at the Monastery of Saint Dimitrios, also known as Panagia Komnineiou or Oikonomiou. The official and imposing name of the monastery, "Komninei Holy Monastery of the Dormition of the Theotokos and Saint Dimitrios," reflects its profound history, with roots stretching back to Byzantine times.

From Karitsa, you can re-enter the "heart" of the mountain by heading east. The road crosses to the "other" side and leads to the Kissavos Mountain Refuge at 1,604 meters. From there, after about two hours of relatively easy hiking, you can reach the summit. Lower down, in Spilia, with its famous taverns, you'll be rewarded for your efforts. From Spilia, a passable dirt road about 20 kilometers long leads to the historic Ambelakia. Alternatively, you can take a "safer," though longer, asphalt route passing through Sykourio, Elateia, Evangelismos, and Tempi. The aristocratic Ambelakia, perhaps the most famous village of Kissavos, is the perfect "epilogue," the ideal "closure of a circle" for a first attempt at discovering a magical mountain that still holds many, many secrets!