Seasons

What if, through the passage of centuries, the ancient "god-river" has fallen from its "rank"? Here, at the western edge of Thessaly, it still holds the overall command, giving life to the nature that surrounds it. In the wild, untamed, and pristine Southern Pindos, nature is the absolute protagonist. The Aspropotamos Forest Complex covers 300,000 acres, one of the most beautiful in Greece, consisting of eight forests of fir, beech, pine, and oak (Krania, Doliana, Polythea, Kallirroi, Stefani, Katafyto, Anthousa, and Chalki). The area's flora is complemented by willows, cornels, plane trees, walnut trees, wild cherry trees, and cornelian cherries. You will also find shrubs (cedars), while notable herbs include tea, salep, nettle, oregano, and more. The region is also very rich in both variety and quantity of mushrooms.

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Such an environment forms the kingdom of wildlife. Brown bears, wolves, and roe deer feel "at home." Birdwatching enthusiasts will search for and find kestrels, golden eagles, owls, blue rock thrushes, and green woodpeckers. From the heights to the lowlands, the herpetofauna includes salamanders, toads, Mediterranean tortoises, alpine newts, lizards, as well as water snakes, vipers, and tree frogs. In the river waters "swim" the endemic Ionian trout, eels, Peloponnesian barbs, and liara fish. Every plant, every tree, every bird, every reptile, and every animal plays its own role in preserving the ecosystem, which is included in the European network of protected areas NATURA 2000.

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The landscape of Aspropotamos

The landscape of Aspropotamos is captivating: dense forests, alpine meadows, stone bridges, "forgotten" monasteries, and rivers with crystal-clear waters create an almost "Austro-Swiss" image. It is a landscape that resists the wear of time and human intervention — an ideal area for hiking, mountain biking, climbing, and wildlife exploration, with numerous marked trails offering peaceful and enchanting routes. One of the best seasons to enjoy Aspropotamos’ landscapes is autumn when the warm colors of beech and oak mix with the dark green of fir trees in the mixed forests.

Towering peaks rise in all four directions. Notable among them are Kakarditsa (2,429 m), the highest mountain in Southern Pindos and all of Western Thessaly, Lakmos or Peristeri (highest peak Tsoukarela - 2,295 m) and Neraida or Kap Gras (1,930 m). Between them flow the tributaries and the Aspros river itself, especially in spring, rushing wildly with its surface foaming and "whitening."

Just below the peaks of Lakmos lies one of the most fascinating and unique landscapes in Greece — the springs of Achelous with their beautiful meanders, the legendary Verliga. In ancient times, these springs were considered sacred and guarded by minor deities.

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Avoiding misunderstandings

First of all: Aspropotamos and Achelous are the same river, the second largest in Greece, with a length reaching 220 km. As it flows beside the slopes of Pindos, it is called Aspropotamos; when it reaches the plains, it is called Achelous.

Second: The Aspropotamos area is considered the entire region between Kakarditsa and Lakmos in the west and Koziakas in the east. Any village located near or beside Aspropotamos or its tributaries is considered an "Aspropotamos village." That is, from Pertouli in the east to Chalki in the west, and from Stefani in the north to Mesochora in the south — anything within this "quadrilateral" is considered an "Aspropotamos village."

This perception has begun to change in recent years, especially after the "Kapodistrias Plan," which included the Expanded Community of Aspropotamos, operating from 1999 to 2010 and including the villages Anthousa, Chalki, Krania, Katafyto, Milia, Agia Paraskevi, Kallirroi, Polythea, and Stefani. If you add two more villages that were part of the Aithikes Municipality during Kapodistrias — Gardiki and Athamania — you get the villages that today form the "hard core" of the Aspropotamos villages. Confusion increases when considering that today, under the "Kallikratis Plan," the first nine villages belong to the Meteora Municipality, while the other two belong to the Pyli Municipality.

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According to this "new" perception, the "border" is considered the Alekos Bridge, where the eponymous "beach" is also located, beloved by those who prefer summer swimming in a river. Access to the area can be made from two sides. From the north, from the Kalambaka side, through a beautiful passage known in Vlach as Kiátra Broásta ("Straight Stone"), which unfortunately was destroyed by the storm Daniel. Restoration work has begun, and a dirt road covered with gravel has been opened, allowing access again with a conventional vehicle (with some care).

The second and more popular access is from the south, from the Pyli side, passing through the more developed tourist villages of the mountainous Trikala region — Elati, Pertouli, and Neraidochori.

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Gini vinis, oaspe!

No matter how beautiful a place is, a visit that does not include getting to know its people and their works is incomplete. Aspropotamos is 100% "Vlach territory" this proud, mountain-dwelling, semi-nomadic ethnic group that has ruled the passes of Pindos and beyond since ancient times. They await you in their beautiful villages — a few thousand of them in summer, far fewer in winter — to warmly welcome you with a "Gini vinis, oaspe," meaning "welcome, friend" in their Romance language. You might get confused about exactly where you are when you hear them speak about their villages by their old names (Krania – Kornou, Agia Paraskevi – Tzourtzia, Anthousa – Lipinitsa, Athamania – Moutsiara, Kallirroi – Velitsiani, Katafyto – Kotori, Polythea – Dragovisti, Stefani – Skliniasa), but don’t worry! Wherever you are, you are in good hands!

The traditional occupations of the inhabitants, mainly livestock farming and logging, and the harsh weather conditions in winter, imposed a nomadic way of life. In autumn, they took the "Vlachostrates" ("Vlach roads") to descend from the slopes of Pindos to the plains and in spring they did the reverse journey. Accustomed to frequent movements, many became "kyratzides" (carriers). In winter, the villages were deserted, and only a few guards stayed behind to look after the properties — a "custom" maintained until a few decades ago.

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This nomadic mindset persists today, even when there are no professional reasons. In winter, residents are few, but in summer, the villages overflow with people. The largest ones (Krania, Gardiki, Agia Paraskevi, Chalki) count a few thousand summer visitors. The Vlachs love their villages as much as their unique traditions, which they honor at every opportunity and in every aspect. A very special place in their hearts is held by their local music, with the accordion often being a distinctive element compared to other folk music of Pindos.

An architectural masterpiece

The truth is that the villages of Aspropotamos — except for Anthousa and Chalki, where stone dominates — although surrounded by landscapes of unimaginable beauty, do not equally stand out for their architectural character. The reason is that they were destroyed by the German occupiers during the operation "Panther" (October 18 – November 7, 1943), which leveled the villages of Aspropotamos (and other mountainous areas of Northern and Western Greece) under the "justification" that the inhabitants cooperated with and sheltered ELAS partisans.

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Despite this, the existence of a single building, the image of one of the most beautiful churches in Greece, is enough to compensate for this architectural "deficit." This is the Church of the Holy Cross (also known as "Doliana Monastery"), which impresses with its 13 domes and is rightly called "the Parthenon of Aspropotamos." Take your time and enjoy this monument of rare architectural value. After all, time flows more slowly in Aspropotamos, and every moment gains meaning. Because it is not a tourist destination in the traditional sense. It is a refuge for those seeking authenticity, tranquility, and connection with nature and tradition.

Vizitsa could be an open-air museum of Pelion architecture as about twenty restored three-story mansions from the late 18th to the mid-19th century survive. Built with local stone and slabs, with hayatia (covered balconies), odades (reception rooms), wooden floors, wood-carved decorations, and with elaborate courtyards, whether walled or not, smaller outbuildings such as an oven, a house for the overseer, and a stable, the mansions of Vizitsa uniquely emphasize the culture and the unique tradition of the place. The painted map in the outdoor parking lot will inform you about their location and how to find them.

The "critical" moment for maintaining the architectural character of the settlement was in 1976 when the Hellenic Tourism Organization (EOT) included, with the consent of the owners, several of the buildings in a restoration and preservation program, turning them into traditional guesthouses, which took the names of their old or newer owners such as Kontou, Karagiannopouly, Vergou, Kyriakopoulos, Dimou, Geroulanou.

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Square for an award

From the outdoor parking area, an uphill cobblestone path leads to the "heart" of the village, its wonderful square, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful in Pelion. The plane trees offer ample shade during the warmest months of the year and scattered fountains contribute to their coolness, while taverns and cafes will cover your most "earthly" needs. The square was declared a monument in 1967 and the rest of the settlement followed in 1976. Stone alleys spread out radially that will lead you to the various neighborhoods of the village, but also even further, to the verdant slopes that surround it. 

Returning to the parking area, you must not miss a visit to the church of Zoodochos Pigi. The church, a stone-built, three-aisled basilica, has a long and "turbulent" history. It was built in 1725, destroyed by the Turks in 1821, rebuilt just two years later, but suffered serious blows from the earthquakes of 1864, 1955, and 1957 and finally closed. It was restored in 2001 and has been operating normally ever since. The ancient wood-carved iconostasis in unusual blue tones is impressive, as are the small domes, which hide inverted jars that improve the acoustics.

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Very close to the church you will find the store of the Agrotourist Women's Cooperative of Vizitsa - "Esperides", where you can purchase delicious handmade treats, spoon sweets, tsitsiravla, pickles, pies, syropiasta, trachana, stafidopsoma, amygdalopites, tsourekia, etc.  In their welcoming workshop, you will learn their secrets. The women of the cooperative often undertake to "set up" tables, presenting the famous Pelion cuisine to official guests. They always make their village, but also the whole of Pelion, look good!

Brief historical review

Although Vizitsa is now one of the most well-known destinations of Pelion, it was once a "humble" district of Agios Georgios Nileias. Its first inhabitants are estimated to have settled here around 1650 AD. and must not have been more than 30 families. Fearing pirates, they remained on the unseen side of the mountain, and only when that fear subsided did they spread further east. With the opening of the central road in the 1970s, the village expanded southwards reaching a number of houses that today exceeds 300.

In Byzantine times, the settlement was located on the northern bank of the Portaikos (or "Portiatis") river, where today we find the neighborhood and the magnificent Porta Panagia church. Back then, it was called Megalai Pylai (Great Gates), a name that during the Ottoman period gave way to "Porta Pazar." The modern settlement “moved across” to a naturally cooler and shadier area.

Religious Monuments

Today’s small town has the charming, laid-back atmosphere of the Greek countryside, and it’s worth strolling through its narrow streets. But the most impressive attraction lies in the old “territory,” which you can access by crossing a pedestrian bridge 120 meters long and 2 meters wide. You can also reach it by car via another nearby bridge. There, where Megalai Pylai once stood, you’ll encounter a Byzantine masterpiece: the church of the Holy Virgin, better known as “Porta Panagia”, a three-aisled, domed, cross-in-square basilica. It served as the katholikon of a stauropegic monastery founded in 1283.

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On this side of the river, a little further away, about 5 km from Pyli at an altitude of 650 meters on the slopes of Koziakas, stands another major religious monument, the Monastery of Saint Vissarion of Dousiko. It was founded in 1535 by the most prominent native of Pyli, Saint Vissarion (patron saint of Pyli, Trikala, and Kalambaka), during his tenure as Metropolitan of Larissa. It is one of the few monasteries outside Mount Athos where the avaton applies—women are prohibited from entering, based on the recorded wishes of its founder.

Externally, it resembles a fortress—it actually served as a kind of castle and refuge for Greek fighters during difficult times for the nation. At the peak of its operation, it had 365 cells, one for each day of the year. The frescoes of the katholikon are stunning and attributed to the renowned Constantinopolitan artist of the Cretan School, Tzortzis, while valuable treasures are housed in the monastery library.

The Dousiko Monastery is not the only legacy of Saint Vissarion in Pyli. He funded the construction of many stone bridges in the mountainous regions of Thessaly, and one of the most impressive lies just a few kilometers outside of Pyli. The Bridge of Pyli (also known as "Saint Vissarion's" or "Porta Panagia’s") is one of the largest single-arch bridges in Greece and remains in excellent condition.

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A Dreamlike Bridge

A few kilometers past Pyli, crossing a narrow bridge at a spectacular point in the Portaikos valley marks the beginning of a route along the slopes of Koziakas (or “Kerketio”), passing through some of the most famous mountain resorts of Trikala: Elati, the Pertouli Meadows, and Pertouli (each deserving its own “chapter”). But before continuing along that route, a detour is a must at the signs pointing to Stournareika and the Palaiokarya Bridge. This stone bridge is perhaps the most beautiful and most photographed in Greece, as it stands in a magical setting with two waterfalls completing the fairytale scenery. In the settlement of the same name, you’ll find a traditional dristela (a water-powered fulling mill). A short detour will take you to Ropoto, the “sinking village” with its striking, tilted Church of the Dormition of the Virgin. Continuing westward along this route, passing through charming villages like Stournareika and Mesochora, you’ll eventually reach Tzoumerka and Arta.

The “Therapeutic” Mountain

Returning to the “main” route, you’ll follow the slopes of Koziakas. Its forests are known for their rich fauna and the great variety of aromatic and medicinal herbs. According to myth, the god of medicine, Asclepius, roamed these wonderful landscapes in search of ingredients for his healing remedies.

From Elati, the Pertouli Meadows, and Kori (among other options), trails lead to the Koziakas Mountain Refuge (Contact: +306939173337, +306979293482, +306977662569 & +306947819298), which opened in 1959 at an altitude of 1,750 meters. From the refuge, the highest peak, Astrapi, at 1,901 meters, is just a 30-minute hike away.

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Passage to the Vlach Villages

Leaving Pertouli behind, you’ve essentially (though not “officially”) entered the “territory” of the Aspropotamos, as the residents of the next Kozias villages share Vlach heritage and common traditions with the “true” Aspropotamians. The first village after Pertouli is the region’s third tourist hub, the beautiful Neraidochori, amphitheatrically built on a slope—like all the villages from this point on—and offering excellent accommodations. Below the village, in the Kamniaitis valley, you’ll find the stone bridge of Hatzipetros near a well-preserved section of the old “Vlachostrata”. Asking locals will greatly help you locate them.

Continuing westward, you'll come across the impressive stone-built church of Saint Paraskevi overlooking the entire valley. A few meters ahead, you’ll enjoy the panoramic view of the very “steep” Pyrrha, where it’s worth seeking out the Church of Saint Modestos with its reddish dome and beautiful frescoes.

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The next village is also steep—Desi. To its north, in the Kremasti area, look for the towering waterfall, especially in spring when the waters flow vigorously. South of Desi, below the road, is the village of Agios Nikolaos (formerly "Kamniai") and nearly across from it, “drowned” in vegetation, is Drosochori (formerly "Tyfloseli"), where you’ll find another waterfall known as “Mana tou Nerou” (Mother of Water).

Always heading west, a bit further on you’ll see to your right the very unique church of Saint Nikolaos Asfakas, “wedged” into an imposing vertical rock. Just a few more kilometers and you’ll reach Aleksiou Bridge, which means you’re now, officially, in Aspropotamos!

Mount Kissavos (also known as "Ossa") captivates from afar. Its peak forms an almost perfect, natural pyramid, often crowned with an "eternal" cloud. At its "alpine" altitudes, just a few hundred meters below the summit of Prophet Elias (1,978 m), the mountain is bare yet gentle on the eyes, thanks to its smooth slopes. Compared to its neighboring Mount Olympus (a comparison that will always be made!), Kissavos feels more "friendly" and closer to human scale.

Up close and at lower altitudes, it becomes even more impressive. Its dense forests and rich flora have earned it the nickname "botanical garden". Frequent mists and abundant running waters give it a fairytale-like character, sparking human imagination since ancient times. Numerous myths are associated with it. Over the years, it has been considered the birthplace of nymphs, the final resting place of the demigod Heracles, and a possible passage of the goddess Demeter to the Underworld.

The scenery is complemented by a cluster of picturesque villages, breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea, and proximity to some of the most popular beaches in Larissa. Here, the dilemma of "mountain or sea" doesn't even arise; visitors can enjoy both! Kissavos offers a place with mild tourist development, ideal for those seeking quiet holidays and a connection with nature. The area is perfect for various outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and canyoning.

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The Noble Agia

A journey to Kissavos begins at its foothills, from its "capital," Agia (also the "capital" of the coastline and Mavrovouni). This historically prosperous town owes its development to the fertile land surrounding it. In the 17th and 18th centuries, it was a significant center for cotton and silk production. Evidence of its past prosperity can be seen in the numerous mansions of the "Upper Town," such as those of Alexoulis (Kalypsous), Petrakis, Antoniou, Efstratiadis, Evroudis, Tzitzilieris, and the Kalogeros Tower. Most of these can be found along 25th March Street. Today, its wealth mainly comes from cherries, pears, and apples. Apples, in particular, are celebrated with special events every September. Daily life revolves around the bustling central square and the commercial pedestrian street starting from it. Nearby, you'll find the church of Saint Anthony, the town's patron saint. Behind its altar, look for the chains once used to tie the mentally ill and "possessed" until the early 20th century for "healing." Just outside Agia, to the east, lies an important religious monument, the Monastery of Saint Panteleimon, with a main church dating back to 1292.

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On the Southern Slopes

Close by, to the west and almost adjoining Agia, is one of Kissavos' most famous villages, Metaxochori (formerly known by its Slavic name "Retsiani," meaning "River Village"). Its modern name derives from the silk production that flourished during the 17th and 18th centuries, leaving behind magnificent mansions and "silk houses". Metaxochori lives up to its reputation with its stunning architecture, unique atmosphere, and beautiful square by the Amyros River. In recent decades, it has often been called the "village of artists," as many artists have chosen it as their permanent residence.

Higher up, the neighboring Megalovryso (formerly "Nivoliani") is also gaining an artistic vibe, especially since renowned Larissa-born artist Thanasis Papakonstantinou set up his recording studio "Achos" here. Megalovryso is a charming village with many stone houses, reportedly built by craftsmen from Epirus. From here, you could head east to the larger and more vibrant village of Melivoia, but before that, it's worth backtracking west to the highest village of Kissavos, Anatoli (formerly "Selitsani"), at an altitude of 960 meters. Many residents of Larissa have summer homes here, in a village renowned as a summer retreat since Ottoman times. Look for the stone bridge from 1860, the church of St. George with its flame-shaped windows, and the notable museum. A few kilometers west of the village lies the new Monastery of Timios Prodromos, near the ruins of the 1550 monastery. Managed by nuns from around the world, the monastery is known for its significant ecological and agrotourism initiatives. Between the monastery and the village, a rugged dirt road (accessible only with an off-road vehicle) leads to abandoned OTE installations and antennas. From there, the breathtaking view and easy access to the summit of Kissavos, with the "underground" chapel of Prophet Elias, make for an unforgettable experience—weather permitting, of course!

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A Balcony Overlooking the Aegean

With over 1,200 permanent residents, Melivoia could claim the title of "capital" of Kissavos, if not for Agia. This large village, with a long tradition in silk production and winemaking, is also renowned for its exceptional chestnuts. The view of the Agia plain, Mavrovouni, and, of course, the Aegean Sea is simply unique. A downhill road—with its fair share of twists and turns—connects you to the popular beaches of Velika, Sotiritsa, and Agiokampos.

Melivoia also serves as the "gateway" to the Aesthetic Forest of Ossa. Spanning over 20,000 hectares, this is the largest of its kind in Greece and a protected area under the "NATURA 2000" network. Dense mixed forests of beech, oak, chestnut, and fir invite exploration by car, but even better on foot. Especially in autumn, the vibrant colors of the mixed vegetation enchant visitors. On this eastern side of the mountain lies one of its most spectacular "secrets," the impressive Kalypso Waterfall. Located near Karitsa, a village that feels like a balcony over the Aegean, the waterfall can be reached by following a relatively easy dirt road heading south from the village. After about 5 kilometers, you'll find signs marking the short and easy (20–30 minutes) trail to the waterfall, where you can enjoy a refreshing swim in its natural pools. Alternatively, you can take a dip in the therapeutic springs of Kokkino Nero, just a short distance from Karitsa. Nearby, you'll also find the stone bridge of Paparizaina.

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Crossing to the "Other" Side

Leaving Karitsa and heading north, you can reach Stomio and the delta of the Pineios River. Just before Stomio, it's worth making a stop at the Monastery of Saint Dimitrios, also known as Panagia Komnineiou or Oikonomiou. The official and imposing name of the monastery, "Komninei Holy Monastery of the Dormition of the Theotokos and Saint Dimitrios," reflects its profound history, with roots stretching back to Byzantine times.

From Karitsa, you can re-enter the "heart" of the mountain by heading east. The road crosses to the "other" side and leads to the Kissavos Mountain Refuge at 1,604 meters. From there, after about two hours of relatively easy hiking, you can reach the summit. Lower down, in Spilia, with its famous taverns, you'll be rewarded for your efforts. From Spilia, a passable dirt road about 20 kilometers long leads to the historic Ambelakia. Alternatively, you can take a "safer," though longer, asphalt route passing through Sykourio, Elateia, Evangelismos, and Tempi. The aristocratic Ambelakia, perhaps the most famous village of Kissavos, is the perfect "epilogue," the ideal "closure of a circle" for a first attempt at discovering a magical mountain that still holds many, many secrets!