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SKIATHOS - Cosmopolitan Charm

SKIATHOS

With a distance of 41 nautical miles from Volos and just 2.4 miles from the coasts of South Pelion, Skiathos is the island of the Sporades that is closest to the mainland. If we add the fact that it is the only island in the complex that has an airport, we come to the conclusion that it is the most easily accessible. In addition, it is an excellent "base" for sailors who wish to explore this magical side of the Aegean. Are these practical reasons enough to justify the island's "success story"? Of course not!

First of all, Skiathos is a very special island with a distinct "character" and tourist "tradition". It has been designated a Landscape of National Value as it has impressive beaches, a variety of natural landscapes - despite its small size -, interesting architecture, great cultural wealth and ancient history.

The island has been inhabited since prehistoric times and is one of the few, if not the only, that retains the same name over the millennia. It was initially inhabited most likely by Pelasgians, later possibly by Cretans. In 800 BC, the ancient city was located roughly in the position of today's and remained there until the 14th century AD when the inhabitants, due to constant pirate raids, were forced to relocate to the medieval capital, the Castle, in the north of the island. Although the Castle was abandoned in 1830, with the incorporation of Skiathos into the New Greek State, a visit to its ruins on the imposing rock is something you should not miss!

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The City of Skiathos

The City of Skiathos is essentially the only settlement and the constantly pulsing "heart" of the island. It was "re-founded" in the location of the ancient city, after the liberation from the Ottoman yoke and the abandonment of the Castle. It impresses at first glance visitors who come by boat, with its dense construction, the amphitheatrical layout and the very beautiful, small peninsula, Bourzi, dividing it in two. Bourzi, this verdant rock, once hosted a Venetian castle, after the liberation Lazaretto (quarantine station), in the early 20th century Municipal School and today a beautiful cafe - restaurant, but also the awarded Museum of Maritime and Cultural Tradition of Skiathos that travels the visitor to the two centuries of shipbuilding and maritime history of the island. Above all, Bourzi divides the city's ports into "old" and "new".

The epicenter of social and commercial life is the Papadiamantis Pedestrian Street with dozens of shops of all kinds and movement 24 hours a day. In a side street you will find the House - Museum of Alexandros Papadiamantis, the building where the most eminent Skiathitis, the "kosmokalogeros" of Greek Letters, was born and lived. On the pedestrian street you will also find the "Skiathitiko Spiti", a commendable private effort, which preserves the way of life of the past century in the spaces of an old stone two-story building. East of the pedestrian street is the hill with the church of Agios Nikolaos, the point with the most beautiful panoramic view of the city.

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Much of the architectural identity of Skiathos was lost with the bombing of the city by the Germans in 1944. Nevertheless, it remains picturesque as the low building and the narrow streets with the small squares always predispose for beautiful, "aimless" walks. But if you want to truly experience the atmosphere of "old" Skiathos and see some surviving examples of local architecture, you should walk in Plakes, a "labyrinth" of narrow streets in the southeastern end of the city.

"Down" from Plakes, the old harbor, is one of the most vibrant "corners" of the city with many restaurants and cafes. It is probably the point from which you will start your evening excursion with a first, relaxing drink in the "pillows". For more "intensity" and higher decibels you will move east of the new port, towards the airport, which is located just a few hundred meters from the city and is one of the most popular spots for "Plane Spotting" in Europe!

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The beaches of the island

Dozens are the options for swimming in Skiathos and are located in all four points of the horizon. The closest to the city, accessible on foot, is Megali Ammos, while quite close, at the northern end of the airport is Xanemos beach. The most popular, sheltered and shallow beaches are located on the south coast of the island. Achladies, Tzaneria, Kanapitsa, Vromolimnos, Agia Paraskevi, Troulos, Maratha, are a range of options before you end up in the "celebrity" of the island, the famous Koukounaries. For those who never say "no" to a good beach party, next to Koukounaries is the "lively" Big Banana, while for those who prefer lower tones, very close is Small Banana.

If you ask the locals they will probably suggest beaches in the other three points of the horizon. To the west, Agia Eleni, Kryfi Ammos and Mandraki. To the north, Elia, Agistro, Mikros and Megalos Aselinos and Lygaries. To the east, Mega Gialos and of course Lalaria. Lalaria rivals Koukounaries in fame and photogenicity and the natural stone arch at the edge of the beach is one of the most photographed spots in Skiathos. It is accessible only from the sea with the tourist boats that depart daily at regular intervals and make the tour of the island.

Many of the southern beaches offer opportunities for water sports, and it is characteristic that there are 15 ski schools. The crystal clear waters are ideal for diving. Diving schools can take you to the islets of Arkos and Repi with their phantasmagorical seabeds. On Arkos, but also on Tsougria, another uninhabited island of Skiathos, you will also find very beautiful beaches. In Tsougria, it is worth visiting the chapel of Agios Floros which celebrates on August 18.

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Nature and Activities

As much as the "technocratic" elements fail to describe the greatness of nature, in this case some numbers are indicative of the natural wealth of Skiathos. Its flora numbers approximately 700 species, a huge number for such a small island. 2/3 of the island is covered by Aesthetic Forest, one of the 19 in Greece. Skiathos has two areas that have been designated Landscapes of Particular Natural Beauty, two wetlands and two wildlife refuges and while Koukounaries with Lake Strofylias behind them, is an area that belongs to the ecological network Natura 2000 and covers an area of over 888 acres.

Such a magical natural environment is ideal for a variety of alternative activities from yoga and meditation to beekeeping lessons and horse riding. The fact that the altitude differences are not large (the highest altitude is 433 meters), makes the island ideal for exploration by bicycle. Skiathos has obtained a Cycling Destination certification mark from the "Bike Friendly" network.

The boom in hiking tourism worldwide is also finding fertile ground in Skiathos. The island has a well-kept, maintained and signposted network of trails and dirt roads. 25 hiking routes have been mapped, of various degrees of difficulty with a total length of 197 km. It is the best way to discover the "secret" and "introverted" Skiathos. The trails pass through ravines, springs, running waters, old threshing floors, mills, locations mentioned by Papadiamantis, but also the most important religious monuments, such as the Monastery of Panagia Eikonistria (Kounistra), which is the patron saint of Skiathos and the last "active" monastery of the island, the Evangelistria with its fortress character. If you want to experience one of the most mysterious experiences in Skiathos, come to the Evangelistria Monastery on the eve of August 15 to watch the procession of the Epitaph of the Virgin Mary, a custom that is found in very few places in Greece. The procession follows a very beautiful, uphill route to the chapel of Zoodochos Pigi, during which the faithful chant, confirming the characterization of the feast as "Easter of Summer".

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SKOPELOS - Island of Rebetiko Soul

SKOPELOS

Skopelos is considered the greenest island in Greece with 80% of its surface covered by dense vegetation (67% virgin pine forest) and this is something that the visitor realizes even before setting foot on the island. The first image from the ship, with Glossa, the second largest settlement, and its port, Loutraki, surrounded by green, is representative.

Its charms, however, are not limited to the wonderful natural environment. It has one of the most beautiful "Choras" (main towns) in the Aegean, countless beaches, a history that is lost in the depths of the centuries, important religious monuments, a plethora of options for adventure lovers but also for those of the dolce vita, who can choose between clubs with many bpm, relaxed jazz standards or "magical and dreamy nights", in the "temple" of rebetiko, the "Anatoli" on the Castle.

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Traditional settlement of exceptional beauty

The capital of the island, the "City of Skopelos", the Chora, is an impressive, amphitheatrically built, island city. It has been protected since 1978, by Presidential Decree, as a traditional settlement of exceptional beauty. It is located in the position chosen by the first Minoan settlers to found the ancient city of Peparithos, which until Roman times gave its name to the entire island.

The Chora is a densely built labyrinth where cars do not fit. The uphill, cobbled streets and the stepped streets, will impose a slow pace of exploration, giving you the opportunity to enjoy countless picturesque corners, a feast of colors and a celebration of aromas. In the spotless courtyards, in the whitewashed neighborhoods, on the ledges of the houses, the always cheerful Skopelitisses continue to gather in the afternoons to "comment" on the news of everyday life.

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Combination of architectural types

The architectural interest of Chora is great as it presents a great variety of buildings. You can see Venetian buildings (unfortunately few now, and ruined), mansions of Pelion - Macedonian style, neoclassical but also folk - "agricultural" houses. This seemingly mismatched combination does not seem strange, as everything seems harmoniously tied together in a special way. And if you are wondering where so many mansions came from, it is enough to mention that between the 17th and 19th centuries, Skopelos was among the 5-6 largest naval powers in the Greek area. If you want to see from the inside one of the traditional houses of Chora, you can visit the "Vakratsa Mansion", the house-museum of Pavlos Nirvanas or the Folklore museum.

You should not miss, no matter how tiring it seems, a climb to the Venetian castle, from where the Ghisi family ("Ghizi") ruled Skopelos and Sporades in the years of Venetian rule. So as not to get lost in the alleys, go up from the old port to the Panagitsa of Pyrgos, the beautiful church that is the most characteristic landmark of Chora and continue the ascent having the Aegean on your right.

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Impressive beaches

The island has a plethora of beaches in all points of the horizon, but the eastern ones are more inaccessible, so visitors prefer those located on the western side. A common feature of all, whether they are sandy or pebbly, is the crystal clear waters and the intoxicating aroma of resin from the pines that reach almost to the sea.

A very popular option and due to its proximity to Chora is Stafylos, a truly impressive beach. At its eastern end, behind a small promontory, you will find Velanio, a quieter beach, which before being "organized" was a favorite of nudists. Further west, the small and sheltered beach of Agontas is preferred by those who want to combine their swim with ouzo and appetizers in one of the famous fish taverns of the settlement. Even further west is Panormos, one of the most beautiful and popular beaches on the island, and next to it, the narrow bay of Blo, a favorite and safe anchorage for those who love sailing.

Continuing further north, you will find the largest beach on the island, Milia and almost next to it, Kastani. Hidden next to the village of Neo Klima ("Elios"), is Hovolo beach with the imposing white rocks on its "back". In all these beaches you will be able to enjoy magical sunsets.

Passing to the eastern side we reach the "celebrity" corner of the island, to Ai Giannis in Kastri. The beach here is beautiful but relatively small and owes its "recognition" to the imposing rock that lies at its edge. In the chapel at its top, 110 steps high, the wedding scenes were filmed for the blockbuster musical "Mamma Mia!" which gave Skopelos the "international career" it deserved, making it, in addition, a "wedding destination" for many couples from all over the world!

The reference to these beaches is indicative. On the island you will find many more that deserve your attention. Desire and time to have!

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The small "Mount Athos"

The Skopelites are famous for their deep religious faith. The numbers are undeniable proof of this! The churches exceed 350, dozens of which are located in Chora. There are also many monasteries on the island, with the most important of these being concentrated on Mount Palouki, also called "Little Mount Athos". Most of the monasteries have a fortress character, reminiscent, even on a much smaller scale, of the corresponding Athonite ones. At a very short distance from each other, you can visit the monasteries of Sotir, Evangelismos, Agia Varvara, Timiou Prodromou and Pano Panagia. From Palouki you will also enjoy an impressive panoramic view of Chora.

Nature and Activities

On the wooded slopes of the mountains of Skopelos (Delfi, Palouki), extends a large network of trails, many of which were "rescued", cleaned and highlighted by a tireless British woman, Heather Parsons, who has lived on the island since 1986. There are also many routes suitable for mountain bike.

On the beaches of the island you will be able to indulge in water sports and diving. Many choose to explore unknown coves by kayak, while as mentioned above the relief of the coastline is ideal for those who love sailing.

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Why "Rebetissa"?

Skopelos must be the place with the most "rembetadika" (rebetiko clubs) and the most "rebetes" (rebetiko musicians) per capita, in Greece! In support comes the annual festival "Rebetiko Days in Skopelos" which has now taken the form of an "institution". An evening at the top of the Castle, on a "balcony" above the Aegean, in the legendary "Anatoli" of the famous Skopelitis rebetis Giorgos Xintaris, accompanied by his sons, Antonis and Thodoris, with a select group of musical friends who alternate unplanned gathered in a corner that functions as a natural "soundboard" for the sweet, unadulterated and "straight" (without microphones) picks, can be for many, the ideal conclusion to a wonderful day on the island. 

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ALONISSOS - The "Alternative"

ALONISSOS

This long, narrow strip of land embraces you gently, relieves you of all tension, and day by day leads you through the open sea horizons to places you never imagined existed. And it's not just what you can discover on the ridges and along the shores of Alonnisos.

There is a Polynesian paradise scattered in the sea around it, with abundant beauty and immense ecological and aesthetic value. And just when you think you've listed and cataloged everything worth knowing, someone mentions the magic word "seabed," "ancient shipwrecks," "the world's first underwater museum," and other incredible, invisible...well-kept secrets!

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Old Alonnisos

A jewel, small in size but in a prominent position, is of course the Chora - Old Alonnisos - which you can only explore on foot. It embraces the rock and the castle, leaving very small, narrow streets free for you to wander, seeking viewpoints over the sea. Its most beautiful hour is when the sun dips into the sea and the palette of colors unfolds from gold to deep blue... the lights come on, the soul smiles!

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Beaches and Hiking

Discovering the most beautiful beach during the summer months is one of the most enjoyable activities, because Alonnisos' lacy coastline leaves no one complaining, while all are crowned with pine or olive trees. This is that characteristic and refreshing effect in the Northern Sporades! Most are concentrated on the southern comma of the island and are easily accessible, while for the northern ones or the surrounding islands (where access is allowed) you will need your own watercraft.

The most appropriate way to make Alonnisos "your own" and capture the experience of being there is none other than hiking, simple walking! The network of trails is extensive, in most cases well maintained and adequately marked. The changes in the landscape and the variety of vegetation are elements that may be imprinted forever, while the tranquility of the landscape usually touches those sensitive chords of people who make their holidays... unforgettable!

Text - Photographs: Giannis Ntrenogiannis

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LARISSA BEACH - Countless Kilometers of Aegean Coastline

LARISSA BEACH

Starting from the southern end of the P.E. of Larissa, almost on the "border" with the P.E. of Magnesia, we will make a first stop at Metalleio, a rather inaccessible beach, where a large rock stands out in the sea, the "Monopetro" (single stone), and the ruins of the old mines that operated until 1950 and produced the so-called "talc." 

Continuing north in the "shadow" of Mavrovouni, the mountain that "bridges" Pelion and Kissavos, we reach Rakopotamos, one of the most impressive beaches in Larissa. The "triple" beach takes its name from the homonymous river that flows into its northernmost part. The southern and smaller part of it was formerly "dedicated" to nudists. Rakopotamos remained a well-kept secret until a few years ago, known only to the inhabitants of the neighboring settlements, Sklithro and Polydendri, but it is now very popular. Although it remains "unorganized," you will find two cafes and a tavern to cover your needs. 

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Next stop is Akti Papakosta, also known as "royal" as it was part of the former Royal Forest of Polydendri. It is a favorite of campers, and you will very often see caravans "anchored" in the parking lot above the canteen. Nice, smaller beaches can also be found within the settlement of Kato Polydendri. 

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Leaving Mavrovouni behind, we move on to the "heavy hitters" of the Larissa summer, the beaches of Agiokampos, Sotiritsa, and Velika. In reality, they form a single beach, one of the largest in Greece with a total length of over 12 kilometers. Dozens of beach bars and taverns line the coastal road, making it a favorite choice for those who want to combine swimming and entertainment. 

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After Velika, the landscape changes, with Kissavos strongly entering the "game." Its verdant slopes descend almost to the wave, offering shade and coolness to bathers. In Paliouria and Koutsoupia we will find medium-sized beaches that combine sand and pebbles. From Koutsoupia to Stomio we can choose between a plethora of small or larger bays (Tsiligiorgis, Platia Ammos, Kalyvi, Pigadi, Psarolakas, etc.) depending on the degree of isolation - relaxation we seek. Special mention should be made of Kokkino Nero, where we can combine the sea bath with the thermal springs in the "baptismal fonts" located inside the village. 

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From Stomio to the "borders" with Pieria, begins a series of beaches with the common denominator of fine sand, very shallow waters (ideal for families with small children), and their proximity to the Delta of Pineios. In Stomio (old name "Tsagezi") with the characteristic small lighthouse, we will cross two wooden bridges over the southernmost branch of the river to reach the beach. A little further north in the small settlement of Alexandrini we will find another beautiful sandy beach, while even "higher" (on the map) we reach the "central" estuaries of Pineios. Next to the important wetland, south of the estuaries we find the beach of Strintzos, with its few huts and other self-constructions, ideal for isolation, while north of the estuaries we find Kouloura surrounded by vast expanses of sunflowers. 

At the northern "end" of the prefecture, Messangala and Kastri-Loutro, offer us a small "journey through time." Family holidays of the "old type," without "posing" and affectation! Small houses where as many beds as needed to cover the family are crammed and a table for food. Anyway, the whole day is spent on the beach with "broken" chairs and sunbeds, an umbrella from the house, and a frappe iced in a shaker, like the 80s (not that you won't find beach bars and freddo espresso, if you want!). The revenge of simplicity! 

 

 


 

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DAMOUCHARI - The Safe Harbor

DAMOUCHARI

Damouchari is the safest natural harbor on the eastern coasts of Pelion, which is why during the 19th century it "hosted" a customs office, warehouses, and shops. Here, the Zagorian ships found refuge when the weather did not allow them to "dock" in Horefto or Ai-Giannis. 

According to local tradition, the first to realize the value of the place was a captain with operations in Europe, Apostolos Vainopoulos. For the sake of his wife, Cleopatra, he built a famous mansion in Damouchari that remained known as "Cleopatra's Miramare." Cleopatra, unfortunately, passed away after complications in childbirth, while the baby boy who was born died at the age of 10. Vainopoulos, after this blow of fate, found "refuge" in the arms of the child's nanny, Victoria, with whom he had 5 children. Most of the inhabitants of the area are descended from these descendants. 

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On the rocky peninsula that divides its two bays, are located the ruins of a castle (probably Venetian), of unknown other details. Damouchari is connected via a wonderful path to Ai-Giannis to the north, while at the end of the southern beach ("Old Damouchari"), after the Halorema ravine and the wooden bridge, begins an amazing uphill cobblestone path that leads to Tsagarada. 

The autumn and winter aspect of the settlement is far from the summer "festival" that is presented on celluloid. It is somewhat melancholic and certainly more atmospheric. There are many who prefer Damouchari exactly like that!  
 

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TSAGARADA – Four Neighborhoods, Infinite Beauty

TSAGARADA – Four Neighborhoods, Infinite Beauty

One of the largest, most beautiful, and most popular villages of Pelion is offered in a "4-in-1" package! The four districts of Tsagarada (Agios Stefanos, Agia Kyriaki, Agia Paraskevi, Taxiarchs) are quite far from each other and could be "independent" small villages. The residential fabric is quite "loose" and stretches for almost 4 kilometers. 

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The "central" square of the village is considered today to be that of Agia Paraskevi, with the homonymous church and the impressive thousand-year-old plane tree. A cobblestone path that starts from here leads to two imposing buildings, the Achillopouleios and the Nanopouleios school, which were founded by Egyptians from Tsagarada. Another cobblestone path leads to the other, "lively" square of the village, in Taxiarchs, passing by another historic building, the Kartaleio elementary school. In Taxiarchs Square, you will see the impressive church of 1786 and a beautiful fountain with four spouts. 

Not just a mountain

Tsagarada has two exits to the sea. One option is the famous beach of Mylopotamos, which is divided into two bays separated by a rock, but connected through a natural "tunnel." In winter, the raging sea almost "swallows" the beach.

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 The other outlet is the inaccessible, "exotic" beach of Fakistra, You will need to leave your car on a plateau where the road ends and walk for a while to approach it. From the point where you leave the car, another path will lead you to the "Kryfo Scholeio" (Secret School) of Fakistra, where in two neighboring caves you will find the hermitage of a monk, who taught letters to the children of Tsagarada during the Turkish occupation, but also a beautiful underground chapel, the Panagia the Megalomata, where barely two people fit. Three timbers and 5-6 icons make up the humble iconostasis of this temple. 

A third outlet to the sea can be combined with hiking. From Tsagarada starts one of the most beautiful paths – cobblestones of Pelion that ends at the coasts of the Aegean, in Damouchari.

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A great loss

Until 2021, at the southern end of Tsagarada, stood one of the most beautiful stone arched bridges of Pelion, built in 1787 by Zoupaniotes masters. This bridge stood in an idyllic ravine, framed by centuries-old plane trees. Unfortunately, the fall of a tree from a severe storm led to its collapse, leaving behind only memories and the hope for restoration.

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