"Wild" and "untamed" are two words that often cling to Agrafa, ever since the days when attempts to list it in Ottoman tax records proved futile, effectively wiping it 'off the map'. This region has always been a heartland of resistance, from the long years of Ottoman rule and the dark days of the German Occupation right up to the present, where locals fiercely oppose the installation of wind turbines. 

It remains one of Greece's most remote and rugged corners, especially during the harsh winter months. But this isolation isn't necessarily a drawback. Here, nature endures untouched, pristine, and utterly magnificent. The way of life for the few remaining inhabitants feels like stepping out of a time capsule. Visitors get a potent taste of "old Greece" – a spirit unyielding in the face of hardship, a constant dialogue with the elements of nature, an unwavering love for the land, and a pure, selfless hospitality offered without expectation. 

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Argithea isn't for everyone, nor is it for those seeking creature comforts and luxury. It will capture the hearts of the initiated, the mindful travellers, the lovers of authentic experiences and genuine adventure – those who don't mind stepping outside their comfort zone. With its countless deep gorges and just as many towering peaks (seven soaring above 2,000 meters), blanketed in dense forests of fir, beech, chestnut, cedar, oak, and holm oak, nature enthusiasts and hikers will discover their ultimate playground. The ever-helpful members of the Hellenic Mountaineering Club (EOS) of Karditsa (tel: +30 6940794395 & +30 6974110853) can offer guidance or even welcome visitors on their excursions. Travellers will also find sparsely populated villages scattered across the landscape, historic monasteries, dozens of enchanting stone bridges, and Greece's youngest natural lake, Stefaniada, formed dramatically in 1963 when the 'Stoichio' mountainside broke away from Mount Sminiko, damming a tributary of the Acheloos River. 

Argithea is broadly divided into two (plus one) areas, Eastern and Western, accessible via two main routes, the southern and northern, respectively. Both journeys begin from Mouzaki – and heed this warning: fill your vehicle's fuel tank here, because you won't find another petrol station once you venture deep into the mountains. Depending on the season and weather conditions, these two routes can connect further west via a passable dirt road, just before reaching the Acheloos valley, which essentially forms a third 'sub-region'. In winter, however, making this connection becomes challenging, if not impossible.

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Eastern Argithea

Following the southern route, the first village you'll encounter after crossing the Oxya pass is picturesque Vlasi, perched at 1060 meters on the slopes of Mount Karava. Opposite lies one of the region's largest and most renowned villages, Petrilo, also known as "Ta Petrilia" due to its scattered settlements. Until 1821, Petrilia boasted a population of 5,000 souls. In 1944, its Primary School served as the seat of the wartime 'Government of the Mountains'. At its heart lies the Monastery of the Nativity of the Theotokos – though locals persistently call it by its old name: Monastery of Agios Charalambos. In the Haris neighbourhood stands the stone-built Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos, one of 19 churches dotted among the hamlets. Traditionally, the faithful return in the summer, some from Schimatari, others from Larissa. The people of Vlasi migrated closer – they now ascend from Mouzaki. 

In Drosato, you'll find a beautiful stone bridge, while in Petrochori and the nearby pastoral settlements of Patlia and Evakli, it's worth seeking out authentic local Agrafa feta cheese and the unique tsalafouti, a soft, creamy cheese. In neighbouring Leontito, once a hideout for the armatolos Karaiskakis, the village square is dominated by a colossal plane tree, reputed to be 1,000 years old! A little further west lies an "eagle's nest of faith," the most significant pilgrimage site in the area, the Monastery of Spilia (Cave Monastery). The final stop on this route is Lake Stefaniada, where, with the help of Finix Adventures (tel. +30 6977663453) and the intrepid Vasiliki Koimtzidou, you can indulge in numerous outdoor activities – a possibility that extends throughout the wider region.

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Western Argithea

The second, northern route requires crossing Tympanos, the passage over the infamous mountain saddle which is to Thessaly what the notorious "Katara Pass" is to Epirus. Crossing it during the winter months is extremely difficult without snow chains and strictly prohibited after dark. Over the years, many Argitheans have tragically lost their lives to avalanches while attempting the passage. To honour their memory, the Municipality of Argithea has erected the "Memorial to Argitheans Lost Unjustly in the Snows" at this poignant spot.

The first village along this route is Argithea itself, which, despite its name, isn't the municipal 'capital', as its permanent residents can be counted on one hand. About 3 km further lies the junction of Agorasia,  where two traditional cafes operate. Here you can grab a simple bite, stock up on cigarettes and snacks, and even purchase petrol by the canister in an emergency. This is also the turn-off for Karya, while its famous stone bridge (also known as "Trizolos", or "Trizol'" to locals), the largest in Thessaly, is located a short distance further on. 

Just before Agorasia, steps lead up to the necropolis of ancient Argithea, a remnant of the capital of the ancient Athamanes tribe. Shortly after Agorasia, a right turn leads to Anthiro, the most vibrant village in the area and the administrative seat of the Municipality of Argithea. Here you'll find an interesting Ecclesiastical museum, cafes, tavernas, a mini-market, a trout farm, watermills, and the beautiful springs of Gkoura. It has it all! Just 3 km north of Anthiro lies the impressive but deserted 17th-century Katosio Monastery.

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Returning to the 'main' road and heading downhill, just before crossing the Liaskovitiko stream, an exit on the right leads to Petroto (formerly known as "Liaskovo"), and continues, running almost parallel to the Acheloos riverbed, towards Kali Komi, with its church of Agios Nikolaos, and Ellinika. From Ellinika, via a dirt road and a rather challenging 2km footpath, you can reach the stunning Korakonissi bridge.

After this detour, you'll cross the Liaskovitiko stream via the metal bridge, and on your right, you'll spot one of the most beautiful stone bridges in the region, that of Petroto. From here on, passing through tunnels carved directly into the bare rock, you'll finally descend into the Acheloos valley.

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The Acheloos Valley

The controversial, unfinished dam at Sykia divides the Acheloos valley into two sections. To the north, it remains quite narrow, while slightly further south, it begins to widen. Immediately after exiting the last tunnel before the settlement of Sykia, look across the river to see the Koulia (an Ottoman watchtower) that once stood beside the legendary Korakos bridge. This was once the largest single-arched bridge in Greece, boasting an arch span of 45 meters and a height of 25 meters. It connected Thessaly with Epirus from 1514 until it was tragically blown up during the Greek Civil War with 61 kilograms of dynamite.

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In Neochoria Vrangianon, you can see the old 'perataria' (an aerial pulley system), a hand-operated 'cable car' that crosses high above the Acheloos, linking Karditsa with Arta, Epirus with Thessaly. It officially operated until 1997 with an appointed operator – the 'perataris' – employed by the Karditsa Prefecture. A little further up, in Vrangiana, the seat of the former Acheloos Municipality, electricity only arrived in 1981. The 150 families that once lived here have dwindled to around 200 people engaged in farming and livestock breeding, living alongside their local treasure, the Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Saviour.

The most lively village in this part of the valley is Argyri, very close to the 'border' with Evrytania. It boasts a cafe and a school, and is inhabited by young people who, swimming 'against the current', choose to spend their winters in their homeland and their summers working in tourism on the islands. Seven kilometres south of Argyri, at the 'quadripoint' where Karditsa, Evrytania, Aetoloakarnania, and Arta meet, the magnificent, four-arched stone bridge of Katafylli – Avlaki, spanning the turquoise waters of the Acheloos, serves as a spectacular finish line for the challenging yet deeply captivating exploration of the Thessalian Agrafa.

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Your strolls around the city can begin at its significant "green lung," the large park with the beautiful name "Pausilipo". At the café of the same name, you can enjoy moments of relaxation while children play at the adjacent playground or marvel at the peacocks roaming freely. If you happen to see a male peacock spreading its feathers, grab your camera—it’s the most stunning fan you’ll ever see! Beyond being a recreational area, the park also serves as a cultural hub, hosting numerous events throughout the year.

In the square next to Pausilipo, you’ll admire the sculpture "My Mother" by the renowned artist Christos Kapralos, a gift from the Hellenic Parliament to the Municipality of Karditsa. On the other side of the square stands the statue of the "Black Horseman," Nikolaos Plastiras. On the park's western side, you’ll find the Metropolitan Church of Saints Constantine and Helen.

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The City Center

From Pausilipo, following the city’s main and most "lively" pedestrian street, Dimitriou Tertipi Street, you’ll arrive at the Central Square, dominated by the building of "Pallas," which now houses a branch of Alpha Bank. Built in the late interwar period, this building was, for decades, the city’s most important venue for entertainment, featuring cinema and theater halls, a café, and a luxurious bar-restaurant. The square also features a unique fountain, created in 2004–2005 by internationally acclaimed landscape sculptor Nella Golanda from Larissa. This three-dimensional "compass" depicts, among other things, the most prominent constellations visible from Thessaly. Close to the square, on Karaiskaki Street, you’ll find one of the city’s most beautiful buildings, the "Arni" Hotel.

About 100 meters south of the square lies the city’s most impressive building, the Municipal Market, constructed in the late 1920s and declared a European Architectural Heritage Monument in 1992. Around the Market, you’ll find several old shops that exude a charming "retro" vibe.

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Cultural Spaces

Nearby, you’ll find the Archaeological Museum of Karditsa, inaugurated in 2012. This modern and well-curated museum showcases the significant yet lesser-known archaeological treasures of the Karditsa Regional Unit. Another important cultural hub is the Municipal Art Gallery, which houses a permanent collection featuring works by notable artists from Karditsa, including the acclaimed Dimitris Gioldasis. The gallery also frequently hosts temporary exhibitions with retrospective, group, or thematic focuses.

Just 3 kilometers from the city lies the forest of Paparantza, or "Chilia Dendra" (Thousand Trees). With its massive, centuries-old trees, it is an enchanting and beautiful recreational spot year-round.

The two historic settlements have, understandably, taken a back seat, leaving the leading role to the spectacle of Meteora. Nevertheless, they have a rich history and deserve the visitor's attention. Traditionally, their economy was based on agriculture and livestock farming, but with the advent of mass tourism, most residents turned to the hospitality and catering sector, a fact that had an impact on their residential image. In Kalambaka, Sopoto and Kastraki, in Mesochori, picturesque "corners" that remind us of the past are preserved.

The area has been inhabited since the Neolithic times, as evidenced by the findings in the nearby Cave of Theopetra, which, by the way, is expected to reopen its "gates" to the public in the coming months.

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From Aeginio to Kalambaka

In Roman times, there was a city in the area called Aeginio, which is mentioned by Strabo, who, paradoxically, makes no mention of the impressive geological phenomenon of Meteora. During the Byzantine years, present-day Kalambaka was called Stagoi, with the following most likely etymological explanations: a) 's tois agious-stagious-stagous- The Stagoi, b) from "stagos", i.e. wheat carrier, c) from the Slavic word "stagia", which means chambers or cavities of rocks. There are two versions for the modern name. The first is that it comes from the Byzantine family Kalabaka, the second is that it comes from the Turkish "kale-bak", which means "prominent, strong fortress".

The most important attraction of the city is the three-aisled Basilica of the Dormition (10th-11th century), with the impressive "central" marble pulpit. It is located under the imposing, vertical rock of Agia. A visit to the Museum of Natural History and Mushrooms is a must, on the two floors of which you will see incredibly realistic representations of mammals and birds as well as all the mushrooms of the area. The Museum is also "responsible" for the Pan-Hellenic Truffle Festival, which has been organized with great success in Kalambaka for the last two years. Of particular interest is also the School of Wood Carving, the only vocational school of its kind in Greece, which has been operating since 1949.

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In a Stone Embrace

Kastraki is the "par excellence" settlement of Meteora and seems to have nestled in the embrace of stone towers. Regarding the name of the village, it seems that during the Byzantine years there was a real castle here, but it could also come from the natural castle that the rocks form around it. Its first inhabitants must have been Epirotes, from Northern Epirus, who initially founded the settlements Rouxiori, Agia Paraskevi, Righilavo and Triskiano, which were united in the early 18th century, forming today's village.

Kastraki is offered as a base for hiking among the rocks of Meteora. If you are here on the feast of Saint George, do not miss watching the "replacement" of the handkerchiefs at Agios Georgios Mandilas, a small monastery of the 14th century, which is perfectly "integrated" into a rock of Meteora.

If you want to enjoy the most impressive, "aerial" view of Kalambaka, Kastraki and Meteora, look for the road to the resort settlement Koromilia, which from a height of 1150 meters offers a unique panorama!

In Byzantine times, the settlement was located on the northern bank of the Portaikos (or "Portiatis") river, where today we find the district and the wonderful church of Porta Panagia. At that time it was called Megalai Pylai, a name that in the years of Ottoman rule gave way to "Porta Pazar". The modern settlement "crossed over", to a naturally cool and shady place.

Religious monuments

Today's town has the charming, leisurely atmosphere of the Greek countryside and it is worth taking a walk in its narrow streets. But the most impressive sight is located in the old "haunts" that you will pass through by crossing a pedestrian bridge 120 meters long and 2 meters wide. You can also get there by car from another, nearby bridge. Where Megalai Pylai was located, you will find a Byzantine masterpiece, the church of the Virgin Mary, better known as "Porta Panagia", a three-aisled, vaulted, cross-roofed basilica. It was the catholicon of a stauropegic monastery founded in 1283.

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On this side of the river, a little further away, about 5 km from Pyli, at an altitude of 650 meters on the slopes of Koziakas, is another very important religious monument, the Monastery of Agios Vissarionos Dousikou. It was founded in 1535 by the most prominent child of Pyli, Agios Vissarion (patron saint of Pyli, Trikala and Kalambaka), at the time when he was Metropolitan of Larissa. It is one of the few monasteries outside Mount Athos in which the avaton applies, that is, women are prohibited from entering after a recorded wish of its founder.

Externally, it resembles a fortress – indeed it was something like a castle and refuge for Greek fighters in times difficult for the nation. In its heyday, it had 365 cells, as many as the days of the year. The hagiography of the Katholikon is impressive and is attributed to the famous Constantinopolitan artist of the Cretan School, Tzortzis, while valuable treasures are also hidden in the Library.

The Dousikou Monastery is not the only legacy of Agios Vissarionos in Pyli. He financed the construction of many stone bridges in the mountains of Thessaly, and one of the most impressive is located a few kilometers outside of Pyli. The bridge of Pyli (also known as "Agios Vissarionos" or "Porta Panagias") is one of the largest single-arched bridges in Greece and is maintained in excellent condition.

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Dreamy Bridge

A few km after Pyli, crossing a narrow bridge in an impressive spot in the valley of the Portaikos, marks the beginning of the route that follows the slopes of Koziakas (or "Kerketios") and passes through the most famous mountain resorts of Trikala, Elati, Livadakia Pertouliou and Pertouli (which are separate "chapters"). But before continuing on this road, a detour is required to the point where the signs point to Stournareika and Palaiokarya bridge. This stone bridge is perhaps the most beautiful and most photographed in Greece, as it is located in a magical location with two waterfalls ideally complementing the fairytale setting. In the settlement of the same name you will find a traditional dristella ("water mill"), while if you continue on this impressive route, passing through beautiful villages, such as Stournareika and Mesochora, you will reach Tzoumerka and Arta.

The "Healing" Mountain

Returning to the "central" route, you will follow the slopes of Koziakas. Its forests are characterized by very rich fauna and a large variety of aromatic and medicinal herbs. According to myth, the god of Medicine, Asclepius wandered in these wonderful landscapes in search of the raw materials for his healing "preparations".

From Elati, Livadia Pertouliou and Kori (there are other alternatives), paths lead to the Kozikas Mountain Refuge (Contact tel.: 6939173337, 6979293482, 6977662569 & 6947819298), which was inaugurated in 1959 at 1750 meters altitude. From the refuge, the highest peak, Astrapi, at 1901 meters, is only 30 minutes walk away.

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Passage to the Vlach Villages

Leaving Pertouli behind, in essence (but not "typically") you have entered the "territory" of Aspropotamos, as the inhabitants of the next villages of Koziakas share the Vlach origin and common traditions with the "actual" Aspropotamites. The first village after Pertouli, is the third tourist pole of the area, the beautiful Neraidochori, which spreads amphitheatrically on a slope – like all the villages from here on – and has very good infrastructure. Below the village, in the valley of Kamniaitis, you will find the stone bridge of Hatzipetros near the very well-preserved part of the old "Vlachostrata". Asking the locals will make it much easier to find them.

Continuing in a westerly direction, you will find the stone-built church of Agia Paraskevi in an impressive location overlooking the entire valley. A few meters further you will enjoy the panoramic view of the very "downhill" Pyrra, where it is worth looking for the church of Agios Modestos with the reddish dome and the beautiful hagiographies.

Next village, the also "downhill" Desi, to the north of which, in the position Kremasti, it is worth looking for the towering waterfall, especially in the spring when the waters run rapidly. South of Desi, below the road is the village Agios Nikolaos (old name "Kamniai") and almost opposite, "drowned" in the vegetation Drosochori (old name "Tyfloseli"), where you will find another waterfall, the "Mother of the Water".

Always heading west, a little further down you will see on your right hand side the very special church of Agios Nikolaos Asfakas, "wedged" into an imposing vertical rock. A few kilometers now separate you from Gefyra Alexiou, where you know now that you are "with a bill" in Aspropotamos!

The fact that ancient Trikki was, according to the geographer of the 1st century BC Strabo, the birthplace of the god of Medicine, Asclepius, has given it timeless glamor over time. The oldest written mention of Trikki is found in the Homeric catalogue of ships, where it is mentioned that the city participated in the expeditionary force of the Greeks in the Trojan War with 30 ships and leaders the two sons of Asclepius, Machaon and Podaleirios, who had been taught the medical art by their father. The ancient city extended from the northern banks of the Lithaios River to the hill of the Byzantine castle, but few traces of it are visible, due to continuous habitation. On the contrary, what is visible to the naked eye in Trikala is the familiarity with new technologies that have given the city the unofficial title of the most "Hi-Tech" city in Greece.

The Lithaios River has been the reference point of the city from ancient times and remains so today. Over 10 bridges cross the river, but it is the central one, a wonderful metal construction, that wins the eyes. It is also known as "French" because it was designed and built in 1886 by French engineers of the company "Thessaly Railways" and is the classic meeting point of the city.

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Walking in the city

Starting from the "French" bridge, and after admiring the landscape with the plane trees on the banks of the Lithaios, most visitors choose to start their acquaintance with Trikala from the Asklipiou pedestrian street, the most "lively" street of the city, south of the river. The street, which the Trikalinos call "Paralia", gathers dozens of commercial stores and cafes and is bustling with movement almost all hours of the day. The extension of the pedestrian street reaches the Railway Station.

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Returning to the "French" bridge and passing to the north of Lithaios are the Manavika, a once infamous neighborhood that housed brothels, but transformed into another pole of the city's social life, with the opening of restaurants, mezedopolia  and tasteful bars. Nevertheless, the most famous point of Manavika is the 150 square meter mural, which turned the awkward wall of an apartment building into a work of art.

Where Manavika ends, the Varousi begins, the old city of Trikala which experienced great prosperity between the 17th and 19th centuries, when most of the mansions that the visitor admires today were built. The walk in the narrow alleys offers a wonderful journey in time. Above Varousi, dominates the Byzantine Fortress and the Clock Tower which is the "trademark" of the city.

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Cultural Spaces

Trikala has a great cultural tradition and its contribution especially in the field of folk music is enormous. The composer Apostolos Kaldaras, the lyricist Kostas Virvos, the great singer Dimitris Mitropanos were all Trikalinos! But above all stands, leading and unsurpassed, the great figure of Vasilis Tsitsanis. If you want to learn everything about the life and work of the great folk bard, a visit to the impressive Tsitsanis Research - Museum Center is a must.

Next to the Tsitsanis Museum is one of the most important monuments of Trikala, the Osman Shah Mosque also known as "Koursoum" or "Koursoun" ("lead") mosque, which today is used as a venue for cultural events.  It is the only work of the leading architect of the Ottoman Empire, Mimar Sinan, in Greece. We should note that Mimar Sinan was of Greek origin, from the village of Agioi Anargyroi (now "Agirnas") of Caesarea. 

Another important cultural space is the Kliafa History and Culture Center where a museum of local history and an industrial museum operate, while it also has a large hall for cultural events and a library with 6,000 books. 

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A very important industrial monument of the city is the Matsopoulos Mill which was the first industrial flour mill built in Greece and the largest in the Balkans. The Mill operated for a century (1884 - 1984) and has been declared a historical preserved monument. Today it has been transformed into a multi-purpose art and culture space that includes the Industrial Museum, a cinema hall, a summer cinema, theater, painting and sculpture workshops and a cafeteria. For more than a month, during the Christmas season, it is transformed into the Mill of the Elves, the "Christmas Village" that has transformed Trikala into the top festive destination in Greece!