WESTERN MAGNESIA - Between Titans and Centaurs

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The area between the "mountain of the Centaurs," Pelion, and the "mountain of the Titans," Othrys, almost coincides with the geographical boundaries of the Municipalities of Rigas Feraios and Almyros. It has everything: mountains, plains, lakes, picturesque coastal villages, myths and history, but for some unexplained reason, it has remained away from the "spotlight" until now. 

The tour can start from the northernmost edge, from the point where Pelion meets Mavrovouni and the P.E. of Magnesia meets the P.E. of Larissa. There, in the "northernmost Pelion," which administratively belongs to the Municipality of Rigas Feraios, you will find two wonderful villages, Keramidi and Veneto, but also a beautiful beach, Kamari. Inside the forests of Pelion, you will find two of the most important religious monuments of Thessaly, the Monasteries of Flamouriou and Sourvias

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The Reborn Lake and the Homeland of Rigas

Descending from the mountain, you will see the enchanting landscapes of the "suffering" but reborn Karla, a lake that in ancient times was known as Voivis, was drained in the 1960s and "re-established" in recent years. It sextupled its area with the passage of the Daniel storm, in September 2023, causing great destruction, but now it has returned to "normal." If you want to learn what life was like in Karla before it was drained, visit the Museum of Limnaio Culture of Karla (T/ +302421058659) in Kanalia. 

Southeast of the lake is Velestino ("Feres"), the homeland of the great Greek thinker, writer, politician, and revolutionary Rigas Feraios (or "Velestinlis"). The pioneer of the Modern Greek Enlightenment is honored in his birthplace with museums, busts, and local narratives that keep his memory alive. One of his 5 famous Charts is kept at the Town Hall. 

Traces of the ancient city of Feres, of various eras, are scattered in and around Velestino, demonstrating its timeless strategic importance. It has been proposed to restore some of the ancient monuments and organize an Archaeological-Historical Park of Feres-Velestino, which will unite all the ancient "dots"!

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On the borders of myth and history

The city of Almyros, an important economic and administrative center, is located in the middle of a plain that in ancient times was known as Krokio Pedio. Here, in 353 BC, the homonymous battle took place, one of the most important of the 3rd Sacred War (for the control of the Oracle of Delphi) between Macedonians and Thessalians, on the one hand, and Phocians and Athenians, on the other. The battle ended with a crushing victory for Philip II of Macedon, who was proclaimed ruler (also) of Thessaly. To celebrate his victory, he gave his newborn daughter the name "Thessaloniki" ("Victory of Thessaly").

Beyond this important historical event, the area is also associated with an important myth, according to which, somewhere here the ship of Deucalion and Pyrrha ran aground during the Flood caused by Zeus. These two regenerated the human species bringing to life the first Greek! 

Near the city of Almyros (which is a historical continuation of the ancient city of Alos), you will find the Kouri Forest, which although it has shrunk compared to the past continues to be a favorite recreation area for locals and visitors. A short distance from the neighboring refugee settlement of Evxeinoupoli, you will find an impressive geological "paradox." The "twin," completely round lakes Zerelia (or "Zirelia") for the origin of which the final explanation is still being sought. Are they the result of volcanic activity or the fall of meteorites? Scientists tend to conclude in the second version! 

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On the borders of the Municipality of Almyros you will find beautiful beaches and picturesque coastal settlements at the entrance of the Pagasetic Gulf, such as Amaliapoli ("Nea Mitzela"), Nies, Pigadi Pteleou, and Achilleio with nice fish taverns and tsipouro restaurants. In Amaliapoli and Achilleio there are infrastructures for welcoming sailing boats that circumnavigate the Pagasetic or make a stop on their journey to and from the Northern Sporades.

Othrys, the mountain of surprises

Othrys (or "Orthrys") with its highest peak reaching 1726 meters, is the natural border between Magnesia and Fthiotida, between Thessaly and Central Greece. It is a mountain covered by a veil of mystery, has been associated with the myth of the Titans, and hides many secrets, both for the nature lover and for the historian. 

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In its wonderful natural landscape are hidden gorges, waterfalls, stone bridges, and more than 50 caves. West of the village of Agios Ioannis at 1200 meters altitude is the underground river of Nerosplia, one of the largest in Greece, with a length of explored routes reaching 1400 meters. 

On this side of the mountain, near the village of Kokkotoi, is also the most important pilgrimage site in the area, the Ano Monastery of Panagia Xenia, the foundation of which is placed around the end of the 10th century. The local specification "Ano" (Upper) is necessary to distinguish it from two other monasteries that also have the "surname" Xenia and are located lower: the Old Kato Monastery of Xenia and the New Kato Monastery of Xenia. If we take into account that over the years, 3 other monasteries that no longer exist had the same name, the confusion seems inevitable. 

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Speaking of things that no longer exist, descending from Othrys, it is worth making a stop at Palaios Platanos, a village that was destroyed and rebuilt countless times from the 16th century onwards only to be permanently abandoned in the 1960s. The "ghost village" must have been the most beautiful in the area. Its stone ruins and especially the church of Agios Ioannis Prodromos cause shivers of emotion in every visitor. 

VIZITSA – Architectural Gem

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Vizitsa could be an open-air museum of Pelion architecture as about twenty restored three-story mansions from the late 18th to the mid-19th century survive. Built with local stone and slabs, with hayatia (covered balconies), odades (reception rooms), wooden floors, wood-carved decorations, and with elaborate courtyards, whether walled or not, smaller outbuildings such as an oven, a house for the overseer, and a stable, the mansions of Vizitsa uniquely emphasize the culture and the unique tradition of the place. The painted map in the outdoor parking lot will inform you about their location and how to find them.

The "critical" moment for maintaining the architectural character of the settlement was in 1976 when the Hellenic Tourism Organization (EOT) included, with the consent of the owners, several of the buildings in a restoration and preservation program, turning them into traditional guesthouses, which took the names of their old or newer owners such as Kontou, Karagiannopouly, Vergou, Kyriakopoulos, Dimou, Geroulanou.

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Square for an award

From the outdoor parking area, an uphill cobblestone path leads to the "heart" of the village, its wonderful square, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful in Pelion. The plane trees offer ample shade during the warmest months of the year and scattered fountains contribute to their coolness, while taverns and cafes will cover your most "earthly" needs. The square was declared a monument in 1967 and the rest of the settlement followed in 1976. Stone alleys spread out radially that will lead you to the various neighborhoods of the village, but also even further, to the verdant slopes that surround it. 

Returning to the parking area, you must not miss a visit to the church of Zoodochos Pigi. The church, a stone-built, three-aisled basilica, has a long and "turbulent" history. It was built in 1725, destroyed by the Turks in 1821, rebuilt just two years later, but suffered serious blows from the earthquakes of 1864, 1955, and 1957 and finally closed. It was restored in 2001 and has been operating normally ever since. The ancient wood-carved iconostasis in unusual blue tones is impressive, as are the small domes, which hide inverted jars that improve the acoustics.

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Very close to the church you will find the store of the Agrotourist Women's Cooperative of Vizitsa - "Esperides", where you can purchase delicious handmade treats, spoon sweets, tsitsiravla, pickles, pies, syropiasta, trachana, stafidopsoma, amygdalopites, tsourekia, etc.  In their welcoming workshop, you will learn their secrets. The women of the cooperative often undertake to "set up" tables, presenting the famous Pelion cuisine to official guests. They always make their village, but also the whole of Pelion, look good!

Brief historical review

Although Vizitsa is now one of the most well-known destinations of Pelion, it was once a "humble" district of Agios Georgios Nileias. Its first inhabitants are estimated to have settled here around 1650 AD. and must not have been more than 30 families. Fearing pirates, they remained on the unseen side of the mountain, and only when that fear subsided did they spread further east. With the opening of the central road in the 1970s, the village expanded southwards reaching a number of houses that today exceeds 300.