With a distance of 41 nautical miles from Volos and just 2.4 miles from the coasts of South Pelion, Skiathos is the island of the Sporades that is closest to the mainland. If we add the fact that it is the only island in the complex that has an airport, we come to the conclusion that it is the most easily accessible. In addition, it is an excellent "base" for sailors who wish to explore this magical side of the Aegean. Are these practical reasons enough to justify the island's "success story"? Of course not!

First of all, Skiathos is a very special island with a distinct "character" and tourist "tradition". It has been designated a Landscape of National Value as it has impressive beaches, a variety of natural landscapes - despite its small size -, interesting architecture, great cultural wealth and ancient history.

The island has been inhabited since prehistoric times and is one of the few, if not the only, that retains the same name over the millennia. It was initially inhabited most likely by Pelasgians, later possibly by Cretans. In 800 BC, the ancient city was located roughly in the position of today's and remained there until the 14th century AD when the inhabitants, due to constant pirate raids, were forced to relocate to the medieval capital, the Castle, in the north of the island. Although the Castle was abandoned in 1830, with the incorporation of Skiathos into the New Greek State, a visit to its ruins on the imposing rock is something you should not miss!

Image

The City of Skiathos

The City of Skiathos is essentially the only settlement and the constantly pulsing "heart" of the island. It was "re-founded" in the location of the ancient city, after the liberation from the Ottoman yoke and the abandonment of the Castle. It impresses at first glance visitors who come by boat, with its dense construction, the amphitheatrical layout and the very beautiful, small peninsula, Bourzi, dividing it in two. Bourzi, this verdant rock, once hosted a Venetian castle, after the liberation Lazaretto (quarantine station), in the early 20th century Municipal School and today a beautiful cafe - restaurant, but also the awarded Museum of Maritime and Cultural Tradition of Skiathos that travels the visitor to the two centuries of shipbuilding and maritime history of the island. Above all, Bourzi divides the city's ports into "old" and "new".

The epicenter of social and commercial life is the Papadiamantis Pedestrian Street with dozens of shops of all kinds and movement 24 hours a day. In a side street you will find the House - Museum of Alexandros Papadiamantis, the building where the most eminent Skiathitis, the "kosmokalogeros" of Greek Letters, was born and lived. On the pedestrian street you will also find the "Skiathitiko Spiti", a commendable private effort, which preserves the way of life of the past century in the spaces of an old stone two-story building. East of the pedestrian street is the hill with the church of Agios Nikolaos, the point with the most beautiful panoramic view of the city.

Image

Much of the architectural identity of Skiathos was lost with the bombing of the city by the Germans in 1944. Nevertheless, it remains picturesque as the low building and the narrow streets with the small squares always predispose for beautiful, "aimless" walks. But if you want to truly experience the atmosphere of "old" Skiathos and see some surviving examples of local architecture, you should walk in Plakes, a "labyrinth" of narrow streets in the southeastern end of the city.

"Down" from Plakes, the old harbor, is one of the most vibrant "corners" of the city with many restaurants and cafes. It is probably the point from which you will start your evening excursion with a first, relaxing drink in the "pillows". For more "intensity" and higher decibels you will move east of the new port, towards the airport, which is located just a few hundred meters from the city and is one of the most popular spots for "Plane Spotting" in Europe!

Image

The beaches of the island

Dozens are the options for swimming in Skiathos and are located in all four points of the horizon. The closest to the city, accessible on foot, is Megali Ammos, while quite close, at the northern end of the airport is Xanemos beach. The most popular, sheltered and shallow beaches are located on the south coast of the island. Achladies, Tzaneria, Kanapitsa, Vromolimnos, Agia Paraskevi, Troulos, Maratha, are a range of options before you end up in the "celebrity" of the island, the famous Koukounaries. For those who never say "no" to a good beach party, next to Koukounaries is the "lively" Big Banana, while for those who prefer lower tones, very close is Small Banana.

If you ask the locals they will probably suggest beaches in the other three points of the horizon. To the west, Agia Eleni, Kryfi Ammos and Mandraki. To the north, Elia, Agistro, Mikros and Megalos Aselinos and Lygaries. To the east, Mega Gialos and of course Lalaria. Lalaria rivals Koukounaries in fame and photogenicity and the natural stone arch at the edge of the beach is one of the most photographed spots in Skiathos. It is accessible only from the sea with the tourist boats that depart daily at regular intervals and make the tour of the island.

Many of the southern beaches offer opportunities for water sports, and it is characteristic that there are 15 ski schools. The crystal clear waters are ideal for diving. Diving schools can take you to the islets of Arkos and Repi with their phantasmagorical seabeds. On Arkos, but also on Tsougria, another uninhabited island of Skiathos, you will also find very beautiful beaches. In Tsougria, it is worth visiting the chapel of Agios Floros which celebrates on August 18.

Image

Nature and Activities

As much as the "technocratic" elements fail to describe the greatness of nature, in this case some numbers are indicative of the natural wealth of Skiathos. Its flora numbers approximately 700 species, a huge number for such a small island. 2/3 of the island is covered by Aesthetic Forest, one of the 19 in Greece. Skiathos has two areas that have been designated Landscapes of Particular Natural Beauty, two wetlands and two wildlife refuges and while Koukounaries with Lake Strofylias behind them, is an area that belongs to the ecological network Natura 2000 and covers an area of over 888 acres.

Such a magical natural environment is ideal for a variety of alternative activities from yoga and meditation to beekeeping lessons and horse riding. The fact that the altitude differences are not large (the highest altitude is 433 meters), makes the island ideal for exploration by bicycle. Skiathos has obtained a Cycling Destination certification mark from the "Bike Friendly" network.

The boom in hiking tourism worldwide is also finding fertile ground in Skiathos. The island has a well-kept, maintained and signposted network of trails and dirt roads. 25 hiking routes have been mapped, of various degrees of difficulty with a total length of 197 km. It is the best way to discover the "secret" and "introverted" Skiathos. The trails pass through ravines, springs, running waters, old threshing floors, mills, locations mentioned by Papadiamantis, but also the most important religious monuments, such as the Monastery of Panagia Eikonistria (Kounistra), which is the patron saint of Skiathos and the last "active" monastery of the island, the Evangelistria with its fortress character. If you want to experience one of the most mysterious experiences in Skiathos, come to the Evangelistria Monastery on the eve of August 15 to watch the procession of the Epitaph of the Virgin Mary, a custom that is found in very few places in Greece. The procession follows a very beautiful, uphill route to the chapel of Zoodochos Pigi, during which the faithful chant, confirming the characterization of the feast as "Easter of Summer".

Approximately 18 km from Larissa, a straight road, at the northern edge of the Thessalian plain, the "monotonous," flat landscape begins to change. There, where the curves of the "barren" Melouna and the unobstructed view of Olympus and Kissavos pique the interest in the traveler's eye, next to the tributary of the Pineios River, Xerias (or "Titarrisios") with its multi-arched bridge, lies Tyrnavos, the fifth largest city in Thessaly. 

Image

Many of the local products, pears, peaches, even feta cheese, are known for their quality, but, let's be honest, Tyrnavos is synonymous with viticulture and its intoxicating derivatives. "Everything vineyards!" is a wish that is still common when glasses are clinked, which means "may we be well to put all the fields in vineyards!" And they tend to succeed! In a relatively small geographical area, the vineyards occupy 25,000 acres, about 50% of the total vineyard area of Thessaly. Although various varieties are cultivated, the absolute protagonist is Moschato Tyrnavou, as the variety Moschato Amvourgou has been officially called since 2013. 

The core of wine production is the Tyrnavos Wine Cooperative, which numbers approximately 500 members, but new, modern, visitable wineries are constantly being added, while in recent years the orientation seems to be changing from "simple" wines for the family table to more "savvy" proposals.

Image

Tsipouro, with or without?

Even more famous than the Tyrnavos wines is the Tyrnavos tsipouro, with or without anise. From mid-autumn, when the hundreds of kazanis (stills) start up and the boiling begins, and for the next two months, approximately, the intoxicating fragrances of moschato flood the city. Small celebrations are set up at the kazanis of the private distillers (also called "two-day" due to the special distillation license they receive) with the cheerfulness rising after a small tour from kazani to kazani. The hundreds of tons of tsipouro produced by the "small" private individuals and the "large" distilleries (700 tons are produced by the Cooperative alone) are distributed in Greece and abroad. 

The Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) TSIPOURO TYRNAVOU has been recognized by a European Regulation since 1989, and in fact it is the only Greek city-municipality that has such recognition at a European level, as the other geographical indications recognized by our country concern entire departments of Greece.  Tyrnavos also has a recognized geographical indication OUZO Tyrnavou. Few people know that Ouzo, the distillate that was once known as "re-boiled raki," was "baptized" in Tyrnavos in the 19th century during the last years of Ottoman rule in Thessaly. You can learn much more about Tyrnavos distillates at the Museum of Vine - Wine - House of Man (Tel. 2492350100), in the Karassos Mansion, one of the most beautiful buildings in the city.

Image

The "old" wealth

In addition to the vineyards, the famous fabrics of Tyrnavos once brought wealth to the town.  Already in the 18th century, the Tyrnavites learned the art of dyeing and processing yarns. With their large production of cocoons, they produced first-class silk and gradually developed their trade and flourished. The silk yarns of the city were exported even abroad, while the masterful, original "stambota" (printed silks) of Tyrnavos were sought after in every mansion in Thessaly, and beyond. The art of "stambota" was, unfortunately, abandoned around the 1960s.  Today, very few survive, mainly as family heirlooms. 

Architecturally, the traces of this "old" wealth are not clear. Few mansions survive, and among them stands out the mansion of Georgios Kalakallas, the late Tyrnavite sculptor and professor of the Higher School of Fine Arts, next to the church of Agia Paraskevi, with its elaborate wood ties, sakhnisia (projecting enclosed balconies), and the intense ocher color, which is in need of immediate maintenance. Other sights of the city include the church of Panagia Faneromeni (17th century), the multi-arched bridge of Xerias (19th century) and right next to it the old Ottoman hamam (15th century).

Image

Bourani and Carnival

The most important "sight" of the city is, of course, the Bourani, the famous carnival custom, a daring ritual of Dionysian origins, unsuitable for the prudish, which is organized on the morning of Clean Monday on the hill of Prophet Elias, before "descending" at noon to the squares of the city. The previous evening, the Tyrnavos Carnival, one of the 4-5 largest in Greece, is organized. 

It may seem like an "oxymoron," but next to the area where the "licentious" Bourani is organized is the most important religious monument in the area, the Monastery of Prophet Elias (probably of the 17th century). In the same area is the Dasaki of Ai-Lias, one of the favorite recreation and sports areas of the locals. 

A little higher and further east is Lousfaki ("small hill"), an extension of Melouna, where you will see scattered, abandoned "Kazarms," that is, military outposts that oversaw the border between Greece and the Ottoman Empire between 1881 and 1912 on the "Melouna Line" (also known as the "Berlin Line" from the homonymous Treaty of 1878). "Below" the southernmost Kazarms is the "Trypimeni," an impressive natural arch. To the west is Damasi (which was severely affected by the 2021 earthquake), one of the largest villages in the Municipality, above which is a castle that impresses with the area it occupies. Little is known about this castle, which was probably built during Byzantine times.

Image

The lakes of Tyrnavos

A few kilometers north of the city are the two small lakes in the area. Vrysi is one of the most popular recreational areas, while Mati Tyrnavou (or "Mati Argyropouliou"), despite its small size, is an important biotope, where large quantities of crayfish were once fished. Argyroupouli is another important settlement that is famous for its beautiful square, the church of Zoodochos Pigi and its taverns.

Leaving Argyroupouli and after passing Deleria, you will reach Rodia, another "must" stop for meat-eaters. A few kilometers east of Rodia, the Pineios River passes through some straits, forming beautiful meanders and impressive landscapes. 

The last stop on the tour is Ampelonas, the second largest settlement in the Municipality of Tyrnavos. In the beautiful market town, two stone buildings stand out, the imposing church of the Dormition of the Theotokos and the old Town Hall. Ampelonas is characterized by large open spaces, beautiful avenues with rows of trees, and the park of Agios Georgios where the Wine Festival is organized every September with multi-day cultural events. 

Image

Tyrnavos and culture

Despite the fact that Tyrnavos is an almost purely agricultural area, it knows rich cultural activity. Dozens of associations, cultural, educational, dance, choirs, theater groups, and musical groups are active in the area.

The Vlachs of the area with their associations and customs play an important role. A large part of the population of Tyrnavos traces its origins to the Vlach villages of Vasilitsa Grevena (Samarina, Smixi, Avdella) while many of the Argyroupoulites are Arvanitovlachs (or "Arvantovlachs") with a more distant origin from the areas of Konitsa, Pogoni, and Grammos. Their harmonious coexistence with the "native" Tyrnavites, enriches and "colors" the cultural burden of an, in any case, historical area.

Until the modern tunnels of the Athens – Thessaloniki National Highway were put into operation, the Tempi valley united or separated, depending on one's point of view, Southern and Northern Greece. It also caused mixed feelings. On the one hand, admiration for the magnificent landscape, on the other hand, frustration for the frequent delays due to increased traffic. With the new tunnels, things have been simplified. Whoever passes through the Tempi Valley does so by choice, to enjoy this magical landscape formed by the Pineios passing between Olympus and Kissavos. The traffic has decreased. Most shops, cafes and restaurants around the old toll booths have been deserted. Most of the street vendors around the church of Agia Paraskevi have sought out other haunts. Perhaps it is for the best. The crowds that once gathered and the noise that accompanied them probably acted as a deterrent to someone who wanted to enjoy the enchanting landscape.

Image

The busiest part of the valley, where many stop to get to know it "up close", but also for a coffee or quick "snack" is the point of the hanging footbridge, which, unfortunately, was destroyed by the relentless passage of Daniel. The church of Agia Paraskevi carved into the rock by the railway workers last century and the holy water deep in an adjacent cave, remain in place, as do various archaeological traces.

On the side of Kissavos

Without a doubt, the most "famous" village of today's Tempi municipality is Ampelakia, on the slopes of Kissavos, above the entrance of the valley. They still exude an air of glamor and nobility from the time (mid-18th century) when, with their Cooperative, the yarns and red dye from the Ritsari plant had conquered the markets of Europe. The castle of Oria, above the village, proves the strategic importance of Tempi! Returning from Ampelakia to the main road, a stop at the village of Tempi and the under-restoration teké of the Bektashi dervishes, Hassan Baba, is worthwhile.

Image

Next stop, Elateia. The village hides an unexpected secret, a model folklore museum, the Museum of Thessalian Life, in essence the mansion of the Syrmakezis family, which the current owners have transformed into an exemplary exhibition space of rural and urban life of the last 150 years, through the personal belongings of the family.

Another well-kept folklore museum also operates in Sykourio, made piece by piece by the local historian Ioannis Prapas. You will find it in the Myli position, a location with many waters and mills, which even operated as a source of electricity for Sykourio, something innovative for the standards of the time. A short distance away is also the "Bara", a small artificial lake that is a favorite recreation place for the residents.

Sykourio prides itself on the wonderful spectacle offered in the spring by the flowering almond trees, but also, of course, on the almonds themselves. It gathers the overwhelmingly largest part of the Greek, but also about 2% of the world production and celebrates it every September.

Image

From Sykourio, after a mountainous, asphalt route of about 12 km on the slopes of Kissavos, you will reach the village of Spilia, at an altitude of about 900 meters. If it is a weekend, do not be surprised by the number of cars, they belong to people from Larissa who come here to honor the village's famous taverns. From here it is very easy to access the Kissavos Mountaineering Refuge.

On the side of Olympus

The other side of the Tempi valley belongs to the territory of Olympus and specifically to its small "brother", Lower Olympus. A first necessary stop before crossing the valley heading north will be at Gonnous to visit another impressive Folklore Museum in a multi-level traditional mansion, but also the Municipal Art Gallery. From Gonnoi, after an uphill route of 23 km you will reach the beautiful mountain village Kallipeyki (old name "Nezeros") at 1054 meters altitude, where it is worth trying its famous potatoes.

Having crossed the valley you will head towards Rapsani. Also known for their yarns, at the same time as Ampelakia, the Rapsaniotes looked for alternative outlets when the trade in red dye began to decline. And they found them in their vineyards. The Rapsaniotes have always loved wine, the tradition of viticulture has even been integrated into the local architecture, with almost every house having a basement with its own barrels. The whole local tradition unfolds in the Wine and Vine Museum.

Image

About four kilometers separate Rapsani from another "wine village", the picturesque Krania and about as many from Pyrgetos. Passing from the eastern side of the National Road a dirt road will bring you to the old Petrogefyro, which remains relatively unknown to many people. It was once famous for its many arches - of which only one survives - and with its 40 m. length it connected Pyrgetos with the opposite village of Omolio, on the other bank of the Pineios.

The end of the route coincides with the end of the Pineios itself, which forms a large Delta between Stomio and Nea Messagala, an impressive as well as important wetland. Kouloura - which is surrounded by vast expanses of sunflowers - , Messagala and Kastri-Loutro are the favorite beaches of the people of Larissa north of the Delta.

Surrounded by mountains (Olympus, Titaros, Antichasia) and separated from the rest of the Larissa regional unit by the barren Melouna to the south, the area of Elassona maintains a certain "autonomy." Until a few years ago, it even had its own provincial administration. Sometimes, a touch of "isolation" can have a positive impact, as seen here with the preservation of traditional agricultural and livestock practices and the "identity" of its renowned local products, led by its P.D.O. feta cheese, which enjoys top recognition.

A widely known version of the origin of the name suggests that it derives from the idea that Greece once "ended" ("essone") here. While charming, this theory is likely inaccurate. The name is more plausibly a corruption of the ancient name "Olassona."

Image

Byzantine Traces

Elassona is a modern provincial town with a long history. The oldest visible traces date back to the Byzantine era. On the hill above the town stands the Monastery of Panagia Olympiotissa (13^th century A.D.), built on the site of an ancient acropolis. From the same period comes the town's iconic stone bridge, which spans the Elassonitis River and was constructed in 1286. According to legend, 3,000 eggs were used to build it. Egg whites were a crucial ingredient (along with slaked lime, water, soil, tile fragments, pumice, dried grass, and animal hair) in the mortar used for stone bridges. Surrounding the bridge is Varosi, the old neighborhood. Other notable attractions include the Ottoman Mosque on the western side of the town, the Natural History Museum (tel. 24930 22614), and the Museum of National Resistance and the Democratic Army. Modern life in the town revolves around its charming central square.

About 2–3 km south of Elassona, on the road to Larissa, lies the "Historic and Martyred Community" of Tsaritsani. Its name means "Royal City" in Slavic, and true to its name, it boasts many treasures: the stone school, the old Oikoneios School (built in 1910 and a pioneering high school in Greece during the mid-20^th century), Mamtziou Tower House (1770) with its battlements and boiling oil holes, the Church of Panagia (1749), and another, the Church of Saint Nicholas, with its rare frescoes, including one depicting the genealogy of Jesus and another showing the zodiac cycle.

Image

In Every Direction

Around Elassona, fascinating routes stretch in all directions. To the southwest, 30 km from the town, lies Verdikousa, the "village of large families." Further up in the Antichasia mountains is the beautiful Mamalis Forest. Verdikousa is a picturesque village renowned for its livestock farming, its local creamy cheese "nivato," its adherence to the old calendar, and the unique fact that many families here have more than 10 children!

To the east-northeast, a scenic route leads to the picturesque villages of Sykamnia and Karya, and the small plateau formed between the southern slopes of Olympus and Gountamani. A short detour takes you to the impressive Sparmos Monastery, deep in the mountain of the gods. On this side is also the unique ski resort at Vrysopoules (managed by the Greek Army's Special Forces but open to civilians). From Kalyvia, a dirt road leads to the Chrysakis Emergency Shelter at an altitude of 2,450 meters. From there, reaching the highest peaks of Mount Olympus is just a matter of hours!

Image

Gateway to Western Macedonia

Elassona serves as a key "hub" for those traveling to Western Macedonia. In the past, before the construction of the tunnels in Tempi, it was the alternative route to Katerini, Central Macedonia, and Thessaloniki when the valley was "closed."

East of the town, the road leads to Deskati and Grevena. Along this route, after crossing the Voulgaris River at Kefalovryso, you'll find watermills ("dristeles") where residents of Larissa (and Grevena) wash wool, carpets, and flokati rugs in an "eco-friendly" way. Near the "border" with Grevena lies the charming large village of Kranea.

The road heading north from the town passes through a beautiful valley before splitting into two branches. The left (western) branch leads to Kozani. Along this route, you'll find the historic Sarantaporo, where the Greek Army achieved its first major victory during the First Balkan War (October 9–10, 1912). At the Sarantaporo Battle Museum, just before the village, you can see photographs, uniforms, and a relief map of the battle. A dirt road 2 km south of Sarantaporo leads to the abandoned Monastery of the Dormition (1750), featuring unique frescoes, including depictions of Alexander the Great, Darius, and Nebuchadnezzar.

Image

The other branch, which ends in Katerini, takes you to the important Vlach villages of Livadi and Kokkinopilos. Before reaching them, two stops are worth making: one in Dolichi to visit the Byzantine Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior, and another in Pythio to explore the cave-like hermitages of the Holy Cross (or Archangels) and the Ascension of the Lord. Dolichi and Pythio, along with Azoros, were the most important cities of the Perrhaebian Tripolis in the 5^th century B.C., in an area still holding many hidden secrets.

Mount Kissavos (also known as "Ossa") captivates from afar. Its peak forms an almost perfect, natural pyramid, often crowned with an "eternal" cloud. At its "alpine" altitudes, just a few hundred meters below the summit of Prophet Elias (1,978 m), the mountain is bare yet gentle on the eyes, thanks to its smooth slopes. Compared to its neighboring Mount Olympus (a comparison that will always be made!), Kissavos feels more "friendly" and closer to human scale.

Up close and at lower altitudes, it becomes even more impressive. Its dense forests and rich flora have earned it the nickname "botanical garden". Frequent mists and abundant running waters give it a fairytale-like character, sparking human imagination since ancient times. Numerous myths are associated with it. Over the years, it has been considered the birthplace of nymphs, the final resting place of the demigod Heracles, and a possible passage of the goddess Demeter to the Underworld.

The scenery is complemented by a cluster of picturesque villages, breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea, and proximity to some of the most popular beaches in Larissa. Here, the dilemma of "mountain or sea" doesn't even arise; visitors can enjoy both! Kissavos offers a place with mild tourist development, ideal for those seeking quiet holidays and a connection with nature. The area is perfect for various outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and canyoning.

Image

The Noble Agia

A journey to Kissavos begins at its foothills, from its "capital," Agia (also the "capital" of the coastline and Mavrovouni). This historically prosperous town owes its development to the fertile land surrounding it. In the 17^th and 18^th centuries, it was a significant center for cotton and silk production. Evidence of its past prosperity can be seen in the numerous mansions of the "Upper Town," such as those of Alexoulis (Kalypsous), Petrakis, Antoniou, Efstratiadis, Evroudis, Tzitzilieris, and the Kalogeros Tower. Most of these can be found along 25^th March Street. Today, its wealth mainly comes from cherries, pears, and apples. Apples, in particular, are celebrated with special events every September. Daily life revolves around the bustling central square and the commercial pedestrian street starting from it. Nearby, you'll find the church of Saint Anthony, the town's patron saint. Behind its altar, look for the chains once used to tie the mentally ill and "possessed" until the early 20^th century for "healing." Just outside Agia, to the east, lies an important religious monument, the Monastery of Saint Panteleimon, with a main church dating back to 1292.

Image

On the Southern Slopes

Close by, to the west and almost adjoining Agia, is one of Kissavos' most famous villages, Metaxochori (formerly known by its Slavic name "Retsiani," meaning "River Village"). Its modern name derives from the silk production that flourished during the 17^th and 18^th centuries, leaving behind magnificent mansions and "silk houses". Metaxochori lives up to its reputation with its stunning architecture, unique atmosphere, and beautiful square by the Amyros River. In recent decades, it has often been called the "village of artists," as many artists have chosen it as their permanent residence.

Higher up, the neighboring Megalovryso (formerly "Nivoliani") is also gaining an artistic vibe, especially since renowned Larissa-born artist Thanasis Papakonstantinou set up his recording studio "Achos" here. Megalovryso is a charming village with many stone houses, reportedly built by craftsmen from Epirus. From here, you could head east to the larger and more vibrant village of Melivoia, but before that, it's worth backtracking west to the highest village of Kissavos, Anatoli (formerly "Selitsani"), at an altitude of 960 meters. Many residents of Larissa have summer homes here, in a village renowned as a summer retreat since Ottoman times. Look for the stone bridge from 1860, the church of St. George with its flame-shaped windows, and the notable museum. A few kilometers west of the village lies the new Monastery of Timios Prodromos, near the ruins of the 1550 monastery. Managed by nuns from around the world, the monastery is known for its significant ecological and agrotourism initiatives. Between the monastery and the village, a rugged dirt road (accessible only with an off-road vehicle) leads to abandoned OTE installations and antennas. From there, the breathtaking view and easy access to the summit of Kissavos, with the "underground" chapel of Prophet Elias, make for an unforgettable experience—weather permitting, of course!

Image

A Balcony Overlooking the Aegean

With over 1,200 permanent residents, Melivoia could claim the title of "capital" of Kissavos, if not for Agia. This large village, with a long tradition in silk production and winemaking, is also renowned for its exceptional chestnuts. The view of the Agia plain, Mavrovouni, and, of course, the Aegean Sea is simply unique. A downhill road—with its fair share of twists and turns—connects you to the popular beaches of Velika, Sotiritsa, and Agiokampos.

Melivoia also serves as the "gateway" to the Aesthetic Forest of Ossa. Spanning over 20,000 hectares, this is the largest of its kind in Greece and a protected area under the "NATURA 2000" network. Dense mixed forests of beech, oak, chestnut, and fir invite exploration by car, but even better on foot. Especially in autumn, the vibrant colors of the mixed vegetation enchant visitors. On this eastern side of the mountain lies one of its most spectacular "secrets," the impressive Kalypso Waterfall. Located near Karitsa, a village that feels like a balcony over the Aegean, the waterfall can be reached by following a relatively easy dirt road heading south from the village. After about 5 kilometers, you'll find signs marking the short and easy (20–30 minutes) trail to the waterfall, where you can enjoy a refreshing swim in its natural pools. Alternatively, you can take a dip in the therapeutic springs of Kokkino Nero, just a short distance from Karitsa. Nearby, you'll also find the stone bridge of Paparizaina.

Image

Crossing to the "Other" Side

Leaving Karitsa and heading north, you can reach Stomio and the delta of the Pineios River. Just before Stomio, it's worth making a stop at the Monastery of Saint Dimitrios, also known as Panagia Komnineiou or Oikonomiou. The official and imposing name of the monastery, "Komninei Holy Monastery of the Dormition of the Theotokos and Saint Dimitrios," reflects its profound history, with roots stretching back to Byzantine times.

From Karitsa, you can re-enter the "heart" of the mountain by heading east. The road crosses to the "other" side and leads to the Kissavos Mountain Refuge at 1,604 meters. From there, after about two hours of relatively easy hiking, you can reach the summit. Lower down, in Spilia, with its famous taverns, you'll be rewarded for your efforts. From Spilia, a passable dirt road about 20 kilometers long leads to the historic Ambelakia. Alternatively, you can take a "safer," though longer, asphalt route passing through Sykourio, Elateia, Evangelismos, and Tempi. The aristocratic Ambelakia, perhaps the most famous village of Kissavos, is the perfect "epilogue," the ideal "closure of a circle" for a first attempt at discovering a magical mountain that still holds many, many secrets!

Portaria is the village that most visitors of Pelion choose as a "base," as in addition to excellent infrastructure with atmospheric guesthouses, tasteful cafes and excellent restaurants, it also has a tourist "tradition." As early as 1905, the luxurious hotel "Mega Theoxenia" operated in the village, which was unfortunately destroyed by the Germans in 1944. During its heyday, it was a major attraction for all the "good society" of Greece and beyond. In recent decades, efforts have been made to "revive it," which unfortunately remained incomplete. A royal decree of 1920 that characterized Portaria – along with Kifissia and Hydra – as a "location of special natural beauty", gave it even more glamor and visitors.

Image

Melina Mercouri Square

Today, its main street is flooded with tourist shops of all kinds, but its most beautiful "corner" is the central square, which bears the name of the late Melina Mercouri. A short distance from the settlement you will find excellent agritourism farms that offer excellent local products and activities in nature. About 15 km away is the Pelion Ski Center, an important attraction in the area.

Image

Returning to the village, it is also worth visiting Panagia Portarea, the small church that was part of an old monastery, which gave its name to the settlement that developed around it during the years of Ottoman rule. In the church, which was built in 1273, you will see beautiful external frescoes. It is also worth visiting the Historical and Folklore Museum of Portaria, which is housed in the Zoulia Mansion, while from the plateau next to the "Xenia" you will enjoy an impressive panoramic view of Volos and the Pagasetic Gulf.

It is the largest village in Pelion, with 2,000 permanent residents. It is also one of the richest and most historical. From afar, its four neighborhoods -Agia Paraskevi (or "Perachora"), Agia Kyriaki, Agios Georgios, and Sotira- are clearly separated from each other, resembling four different villages that just... happened to be very close.

The initial nucleus of the village must have been formed around the 12th century, near the monastery of Metamorphosis tou Sotira, which no longer exists, somewhere in today's Sotira district. For many years it had a double name, "Sotira-Zagora", but soon only the second component remained, which comes from a Slavic word that means "place behind the mountain."

The administrative center has always been a pole of attraction for persecuted Greeks from areas where the Turkish yoke was more unbearable, especially from the 17th - 18th century onwards, when Zagora experienced economic prosperity, due to the production and trade of silk and skoutia (woolen fabrics). Most of them came from Epirus and Macedonia and brought with them this special northern Greek architecture, which today characterizes most of the villages of Pelion.

Image

The Zagorian Ships and the Egyptians

To overcome the obstacles posed by the mountain regarding the movement of goods, they turned their gaze to the sea, built the much-sung Zagorian ships, and through Horefto expanded their operations to the Central and Eastern Mediterranean, while where they really flourished was in the 19th century in Egypt. Those who prospered abroad did not forget their village and benefited it with various bequests.

Image

Others built beautiful churches, others proud mansions, one a cobblestone path, and another a road, and many together helped to build the two "cornerstones" of the village. The Ellinomouseio (early 18th century), the first important school in all of Pelion, where, among others, Rigas Feraios studied. In 1762, the famous Library of Zagora was founded, mainly thanks to the effort and contribution of the Zagorian Ecumenical Patriarch Kallinikos III and the merchant Ioannis Prigos, who had been a refugee since the age of 16, but excelled in business in Amsterdam, after previously having made the route Alexandria-Venice-Smyrna.

Image

Apples of Gold

From the beginning of the 20th century, they turned to agriculture and especially to their red "gold," the famous apples of Zagora. They even proceeded to found an Agricultural Cooperative as early as 1916 to better promote the delicious firikia (which were subsequently neglected) and starking delicious - today known as "Zagorin."

The fact that Zagora does not link its economic prosperity with tourism perhaps explains why it is not among the top destinations of Pelion, although it has a very remarkable infrastructure. In recent years, however, and with the contribution of the beautiful beach of Horefto (the largest in Pelion), it is entering the tourist map more and more dynamically!

At the northern edge of the Karditsa Regional Unit, Mouzaki serves not only as the area's commercial and administrative heart but also as a crucial crossroads connecting routes to and from Argithea, the stunning Lake Plastira, and the historic Pyli of Trikala. This relatively "new" and vibrant town, despite suffering setbacks from destructive storms in recent years, spreads proudly at the foothills of Mount Itamos, marking the eastern end of the mighty Agrafa range. It nestles beside the Pamisos River, a major tributary of the Pineios. Peeking through a dramatic cleft in the sheer rock faces, Mouzaki gazes upon the passes of the Southern Pindus, offering a captivating introduction to its wondrous mountainous realm.

Image

A Wealth of Choices

Radiating outwards from Mouzaki, a multitude of routes unfold, each holding secrets waiting to be discovered by the curious visitor. Heading west towards Argithea, just 3 km from town, lies the "Palaiokamara" of Porti, a 16th-century stone bridge, a legacy of Saint Vissarion, Metropolitan of Larissa, of which only one arch remains today. Ascending towards the village itself, you'll find a launch site for hang gliders and a challenging climbing field. Porti, beyond its sun-drenched panoramic setting, boasts the Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos dating back to 1592, remnants of ancient walls at the Palaiokastro site, and for caving enthusiasts, numerous caves await exploration at the location known as "Skala". Drawing ever closer to the realm of Argithea, we reach Oxya, a village of scattered hamlets gazing across at the peaks of Mount Karava, neatly bisected by the Pamisos River. In one of its settlements, Mesorrachi, stands the Monastery of Agia Triada (Holy Trinity) of Oxya, its walls adorned with smoke-darkened frescoes from 1682.

Heading towards Lake Plastira, which lies about 30 km from Mouzaki, a stop in Anthochori is well worthwhile. A pleasant 20-minute hike from the stone watermill leads to a small yet impressive waterfall. Equally charming is the Kamara Anthochoriou, a small stone bridge in a delightful setting, reachable after a 5 km drive along a dirt track.

Image

Heading Eastward

A few kilometres east of Mouzaki sits Ellinopyrgos. This traditional settlement derives its name ('Greek Tower') from the ruins of a 4th-century BC tower found on the village's northern side. Easily accessible, it offers breathtaking 360-degree views. Your gaze can stretch from Mouzaki and Pyli of Trikala all the way to Fanari and even further, towards Domokos. Although often called a 'castle', it likely served as a phryctoria (beacon tower), maintaining visual contact with the harder-to-reach towers at Ellinokastro and Pyrgos Ithomis. 

Nestled amidst lush vegetation, 1 km from Pyrgos Ithomis, the Church of the Twelve Apostles marks the entrance to the Mega Gorge. This ravine is dramatically carved between the hill of the local 'acropolis' and a rock formation known as "Stefani tis Panagias" (Our Lady's Crown), where a cave shelters a miracle-working icon.

Image

In Karaiskakis's Birthplace

Returning towards the plain, a detour to Mavrommati is a must. In the birthplace of Georgios Karaiskakis, the legendary, famously outspoken general of the Greek Revolution, visitors are greeted by his imposing equestrian statue. The illegitimate son of a nun known as "Kyra-Zoi," he was born in 1782 in a cave (which you can visit) located north of the village. From there, it's another 2 km to reach the historic Monastery of Agios Georgios (St. George). Back in the village square, a visit to the house where Karaiskakis lived until the age of 17 can be perfectly paired with the adjacent, wonderful Museum of Folk Art, a lifelong passion project of Mrs. Melpomeni Tziouvara.

Image

At the easternmost edge of the municipality, two of Karditsa's most beautiful villages await. The neighbouring settlements of Fanari and Kanalia share a strategic position, commanding views over the ancient routes from Epirus into Thessaly. Indeed, the formidable Fanari Castle was one of the most significant Byzantine strongholds of its era. Kanalia, with its almost 'suspended' square hosting delightful tavernas, its winding alleys touched by hints of Epirote architecture, and its sweeping vistas encompassing Fanari Castle, distant Mount Olympus, and the boundless plain, provides the perfect, picturesque 'epilogue' to your explorations.

The Sofades region is famous for its agricultural character and the production of high-quality products. The fertile plain of Karditsa allows for the intensive cultivation of cotton, corn, cereals, and legumes. The locals continue to maintain a strong bond with the land and their traditions, offering visitors authentic flavors and heartfelt hospitality.

It is a destination that combines natural beauty, cultural heritage, and unique experiences for all visitors. From the thermal springs and Lake Smokovo to the picturesque villages and the adrenaline of the Acropolis Rally, the area offers much more than one expects.

Image

Thermal Springs and Lake Smokovo

The Smokovo thermal springs are one of the most important wellness destinations in the region. With a history that is lost in the centuries, the thermal springs are known for their therapeutic properties and high content of carbon dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, and other beneficial minerals. The facilities offer modern infrastructure, while their natural location - in a green landscape - guarantees tranquility and relaxation. Almost unknown and "unorganized" are the Soylanta thermal springs that maintain a special "primitive" charm.

A short distance from the baths, Lake Smokovo stretches between the hills of the area, offering an impressive setting. The artificial lake was created for irrigation and energy purposes, but has now become a favorite destination for nature lovers and those seeking quiet moments in nature. Here you can enjoy walks, picnics, fishing, and photographic excursions thanks to the rich flora and fauna of the area. Cultural events are organized in the beautiful outdoor theater of Ktimeni, including concerts that are part of the Lake Festival organized by the Region of Thessaly. Beautiful views of the lake can be enjoyed from the picturesque village of Loutropigi.

Image

Rentina: A Living Village-Museum

Rentina, built amphitheatrically on the slopes of Agrafa, is one of the most traditional villages in the Municipality of Sofades. With a strong architectural character, stone houses, and cobbled streets, it is a real gem with a rich history. Significant attractions are the Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos and the Folklore Museum. The village comes alive especially in the summer, with cultural events, festivals, and local celebrations.

Acropolis Rally 2025 - Special Route in the Municipality of Sofades

2025 brings to the fore a unique experience for motorsport enthusiasts and puts Thessaly back on the "map" of the WRC. The Municipality of Sofades will host one of the special routes of the Acropolis Rally, one of the most historic and famous rally races worldwide. The new Smokovo special route, 24.59 kilometers long, near the homonymous artificial lake, makes its debut, offering an impressive setting for both spectators and drivers. This is an important moment for the area, which is expected to attract thousands of visitors and motorsport fans from Greece and abroad.