Until the modern tunnels of the Athens – Thessaloniki National Highway were put into operation, the Tempi valley united or separated, depending on one's point of view, Southern and Northern Greece. It also caused mixed feelings. On the one hand, admiration for the magnificent landscape, on the other hand, frustration for the frequent delays due to increased traffic. With the new tunnels, things have been simplified. Whoever passes through the Tempi Valley does so by choice, to enjoy this magical landscape formed by the Pineios passing between Olympus and Kissavos. The traffic has decreased. Most shops, cafes and restaurants around the old toll booths have been deserted. Most of the street vendors around the church of Agia Paraskevi have sought out other haunts. Perhaps it is for the best. The crowds that once gathered and the noise that accompanied them probably acted as a deterrent to someone who wanted to enjoy the enchanting landscape.

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The busiest part of the valley, where many stop to get to know it "up close", but also for a coffee or quick "snack" is the point of the hanging footbridge, which, unfortunately, was destroyed by the relentless passage of Daniel. The church of Agia Paraskevi carved into the rock by the railway workers last century and the holy water deep in an adjacent cave, remain in place, as do various archaeological traces.

On the side of Kissavos

Without a doubt, the most "famous" village of today's Tempi municipality is Ampelakia, on the slopes of Kissavos, above the entrance of the valley. They still exude an air of glamor and nobility from the time (mid-18th century) when, with their Cooperative, the yarns and red dye from the Ritsari plant had conquered the markets of Europe. The castle of Oria, above the village, proves the strategic importance of Tempi! Returning from Ampelakia to the main road, a stop at the village of Tempi and the under-restoration teké of the Bektashi dervishes, Hassan Baba, is worthwhile.

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Next stop, Elateia. The village hides an unexpected secret, a model folklore museum, the Museum of Thessalian Life, in essence the mansion of the Syrmakezis family, which the current owners have transformed into an exemplary exhibition space of rural and urban life of the last 150 years, through the personal belongings of the family.

Another well-kept folklore museum also operates in Sykourio, made piece by piece by the local historian Ioannis Prapas. You will find it in the Myli position, a location with many waters and mills, which even operated as a source of electricity for Sykourio, something innovative for the standards of the time. A short distance away is also the "Bara", a small artificial lake that is a favorite recreation place for the residents.

Sykourio prides itself on the wonderful spectacle offered in the spring by the flowering almond trees, but also, of course, on the almonds themselves. It gathers the overwhelmingly largest part of the Greek, but also about 2% of the world production and celebrates it every September.

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From Sykourio, after a mountainous, asphalt route of about 12 km on the slopes of Kissavos, you will reach the village of Spilia, at an altitude of about 900 meters. If it is a weekend, do not be surprised by the number of cars, they belong to people from Larissa who come here to honor the village's famous taverns. From here it is very easy to access the Kissavos Mountaineering Refuge.

On the side of Olympus

The other side of the Tempi valley belongs to the territory of Olympus and specifically to its small "brother", Lower Olympus. A first necessary stop before crossing the valley heading north will be at Gonnous to visit another impressive Folklore Museum in a multi-level traditional mansion, but also the Municipal Art Gallery. From Gonnoi, after an uphill route of 23 km you will reach the beautiful mountain village Kallipeyki (old name "Nezeros") at 1054 meters altitude, where it is worth trying its famous potatoes.

Having crossed the valley you will head towards Rapsani. Also known for their yarns, at the same time as Ampelakia, the Rapsaniotes looked for alternative outlets when the trade in red dye began to decline. And they found them in their vineyards. The Rapsaniotes have always loved wine, the tradition of viticulture has even been integrated into the local architecture, with almost every house having a basement with its own barrels. The whole local tradition unfolds in the Wine and Vine Museum.

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About four kilometers separate Rapsani from another "wine village", the picturesque Krania and about as many from Pyrgetos. Passing from the eastern side of the National Road a dirt road will bring you to the old Petrogefyro, which remains relatively unknown to many people. It was once famous for its many arches - of which only one survives - and with its 40 m. length it connected Pyrgetos with the opposite village of Omolio, on the other bank of the Pineios.

The end of the route coincides with the end of the Pineios itself, which forms a large Delta between Stomio and Nea Messagala, an impressive as well as important wetland. Kouloura - which is surrounded by vast expanses of sunflowers - , Messagala and Kastri-Loutro are the favorite beaches of the people of Larissa north of the Delta.

Surrounded by mountains (Olympus, Titaros, Antichasia) and separated from the rest of the Larissa regional unit by the barren Melouna to the south, the area of Elassona maintains a certain "autonomy." Until a few years ago, it even had its own provincial administration. Sometimes, a touch of "isolation" can have a positive impact, as seen here with the preservation of traditional agricultural and livestock practices and the "identity" of its renowned local products, led by its P.D.O. feta cheese, which enjoys top recognition.

A widely known version of the origin of the name suggests that it derives from the idea that Greece once "ended" ("essone") here. While charming, this theory is likely inaccurate. The name is more plausibly a corruption of the ancient name "Olassona."

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Byzantine Traces

Elassona is a modern provincial town with a long history. The oldest visible traces date back to the Byzantine era. On the hill above the town stands the Monastery of Panagia Olympiotissa (13^th century A.D.), built on the site of an ancient acropolis. From the same period comes the town's iconic stone bridge, which spans the Elassonitis River and was constructed in 1286. According to legend, 3,000 eggs were used to build it. Egg whites were a crucial ingredient (along with slaked lime, water, soil, tile fragments, pumice, dried grass, and animal hair) in the mortar used for stone bridges. Surrounding the bridge is Varosi, the old neighborhood. Other notable attractions include the Ottoman Mosque on the western side of the town, the Natural History Museum (tel. 24930 22614), and the Museum of National Resistance and the Democratic Army. Modern life in the town revolves around its charming central square.

About 2–3 km south of Elassona, on the road to Larissa, lies the "Historic and Martyred Community" of Tsaritsani. Its name means "Royal City" in Slavic, and true to its name, it boasts many treasures: the stone school, the old Oikoneios School (built in 1910 and a pioneering high school in Greece during the mid-20^th century), Mamtziou Tower House (1770) with its battlements and boiling oil holes, the Church of Panagia (1749), and another, the Church of Saint Nicholas, with its rare frescoes, including one depicting the genealogy of Jesus and another showing the zodiac cycle.

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In Every Direction

Around Elassona, fascinating routes stretch in all directions. To the southwest, 30 km from the town, lies Verdikousa, the "village of large families." Further up in the Antichasia mountains is the beautiful Mamalis Forest. Verdikousa is a picturesque village renowned for its livestock farming, its local creamy cheese "nivato," its adherence to the old calendar, and the unique fact that many families here have more than 10 children!

To the east-northeast, a scenic route leads to the picturesque villages of Sykamnia and Karya, and the small plateau formed between the southern slopes of Olympus and Gountamani. A short detour takes you to the impressive Sparmos Monastery, deep in the mountain of the gods. On this side is also the unique ski resort at Vrysopoules (managed by the Greek Army's Special Forces but open to civilians). From Kalyvia, a dirt road leads to the Chrysakis Emergency Shelter at an altitude of 2,450 meters. From there, reaching the highest peaks of Mount Olympus is just a matter of hours!

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Gateway to Western Macedonia

Elassona serves as a key "hub" for those traveling to Western Macedonia. In the past, before the construction of the tunnels in Tempi, it was the alternative route to Katerini, Central Macedonia, and Thessaloniki when the valley was "closed."

East of the town, the road leads to Deskati and Grevena. Along this route, after crossing the Voulgaris River at Kefalovryso, you'll find watermills ("dristeles") where residents of Larissa (and Grevena) wash wool, carpets, and flokati rugs in an "eco-friendly" way. Near the "border" with Grevena lies the charming large village of Kranea.

The road heading north from the town passes through a beautiful valley before splitting into two branches. The left (western) branch leads to Kozani. Along this route, you'll find the historic Sarantaporo, where the Greek Army achieved its first major victory during the First Balkan War (October 9–10, 1912). At the Sarantaporo Battle Museum, just before the village, you can see photographs, uniforms, and a relief map of the battle. A dirt road 2 km south of Sarantaporo leads to the abandoned Monastery of the Dormition (1750), featuring unique frescoes, including depictions of Alexander the Great, Darius, and Nebuchadnezzar.

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The other branch, which ends in Katerini, takes you to the important Vlach villages of Livadi and Kokkinopilos. Before reaching them, two stops are worth making: one in Dolichi to visit the Byzantine Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior, and another in Pythio to explore the cave-like hermitages of the Holy Cross (or Archangels) and the Ascension of the Lord. Dolichi and Pythio, along with Azoros, were the most important cities of the Perrhaebian Tripolis in the 5^th century B.C., in an area still holding many hidden secrets.

Mount Kissavos (also known as "Ossa") captivates from afar. Its peak forms an almost perfect, natural pyramid, often crowned with an "eternal" cloud. At its "alpine" altitudes, just a few hundred meters below the summit of Prophet Elias (1,978 m), the mountain is bare yet gentle on the eyes, thanks to its smooth slopes. Compared to its neighboring Mount Olympus (a comparison that will always be made!), Kissavos feels more "friendly" and closer to human scale.

Up close and at lower altitudes, it becomes even more impressive. Its dense forests and rich flora have earned it the nickname "botanical garden". Frequent mists and abundant running waters give it a fairytale-like character, sparking human imagination since ancient times. Numerous myths are associated with it. Over the years, it has been considered the birthplace of nymphs, the final resting place of the demigod Heracles, and a possible passage of the goddess Demeter to the Underworld.

The scenery is complemented by a cluster of picturesque villages, breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea, and proximity to some of the most popular beaches in Larissa. Here, the dilemma of "mountain or sea" doesn't even arise; visitors can enjoy both! Kissavos offers a place with mild tourist development, ideal for those seeking quiet holidays and a connection with nature. The area is perfect for various outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and canyoning.

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The Noble Agia

A journey to Kissavos begins at its foothills, from its "capital," Agia (also the "capital" of the coastline and Mavrovouni). This historically prosperous town owes its development to the fertile land surrounding it. In the 17^th and 18^th centuries, it was a significant center for cotton and silk production. Evidence of its past prosperity can be seen in the numerous mansions of the "Upper Town," such as those of Alexoulis (Kalypsous), Petrakis, Antoniou, Efstratiadis, Evroudis, Tzitzilieris, and the Kalogeros Tower. Most of these can be found along 25^th March Street. Today, its wealth mainly comes from cherries, pears, and apples. Apples, in particular, are celebrated with special events every September. Daily life revolves around the bustling central square and the commercial pedestrian street starting from it. Nearby, you'll find the church of Saint Anthony, the town's patron saint. Behind its altar, look for the chains once used to tie the mentally ill and "possessed" until the early 20^th century for "healing." Just outside Agia, to the east, lies an important religious monument, the Monastery of Saint Panteleimon, with a main church dating back to 1292.

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On the Southern Slopes

Close by, to the west and almost adjoining Agia, is one of Kissavos' most famous villages, Metaxochori (formerly known by its Slavic name "Retsiani," meaning "River Village"). Its modern name derives from the silk production that flourished during the 17^th and 18^th centuries, leaving behind magnificent mansions and "silk houses". Metaxochori lives up to its reputation with its stunning architecture, unique atmosphere, and beautiful square by the Amyros River. In recent decades, it has often been called the "village of artists," as many artists have chosen it as their permanent residence.

Higher up, the neighboring Megalovryso (formerly "Nivoliani") is also gaining an artistic vibe, especially since renowned Larissa-born artist Thanasis Papakonstantinou set up his recording studio "Achos" here. Megalovryso is a charming village with many stone houses, reportedly built by craftsmen from Epirus. From here, you could head east to the larger and more vibrant village of Melivoia, but before that, it's worth backtracking west to the highest village of Kissavos, Anatoli (formerly "Selitsani"), at an altitude of 960 meters. Many residents of Larissa have summer homes here, in a village renowned as a summer retreat since Ottoman times. Look for the stone bridge from 1860, the church of St. George with its flame-shaped windows, and the notable museum. A few kilometers west of the village lies the new Monastery of Timios Prodromos, near the ruins of the 1550 monastery. Managed by nuns from around the world, the monastery is known for its significant ecological and agrotourism initiatives. Between the monastery and the village, a rugged dirt road (accessible only with an off-road vehicle) leads to abandoned OTE installations and antennas. From there, the breathtaking view and easy access to the summit of Kissavos, with the "underground" chapel of Prophet Elias, make for an unforgettable experience—weather permitting, of course!

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A Balcony Overlooking the Aegean

With over 1,200 permanent residents, Melivoia could claim the title of "capital" of Kissavos, if not for Agia. This large village, with a long tradition in silk production and winemaking, is also renowned for its exceptional chestnuts. The view of the Agia plain, Mavrovouni, and, of course, the Aegean Sea is simply unique. A downhill road—with its fair share of twists and turns—connects you to the popular beaches of Velika, Sotiritsa, and Agiokampos.

Melivoia also serves as the "gateway" to the Aesthetic Forest of Ossa. Spanning over 20,000 hectares, this is the largest of its kind in Greece and a protected area under the "NATURA 2000" network. Dense mixed forests of beech, oak, chestnut, and fir invite exploration by car, but even better on foot. Especially in autumn, the vibrant colors of the mixed vegetation enchant visitors. On this eastern side of the mountain lies one of its most spectacular "secrets," the impressive Kalypso Waterfall. Located near Karitsa, a village that feels like a balcony over the Aegean, the waterfall can be reached by following a relatively easy dirt road heading south from the village. After about 5 kilometers, you'll find signs marking the short and easy (20–30 minutes) trail to the waterfall, where you can enjoy a refreshing swim in its natural pools. Alternatively, you can take a dip in the therapeutic springs of Kokkino Nero, just a short distance from Karitsa. Nearby, you'll also find the stone bridge of Paparizaina.

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Crossing to the "Other" Side

Leaving Karitsa and heading north, you can reach Stomio and the delta of the Pineios River. Just before Stomio, it's worth making a stop at the Monastery of Saint Dimitrios, also known as Panagia Komnineiou or Oikonomiou. The official and imposing name of the monastery, "Komninei Holy Monastery of the Dormition of the Theotokos and Saint Dimitrios," reflects its profound history, with roots stretching back to Byzantine times.

From Karitsa, you can re-enter the "heart" of the mountain by heading east. The road crosses to the "other" side and leads to the Kissavos Mountain Refuge at 1,604 meters. From there, after about two hours of relatively easy hiking, you can reach the summit. Lower down, in Spilia, with its famous taverns, you'll be rewarded for your efforts. From Spilia, a passable dirt road about 20 kilometers long leads to the historic Ambelakia. Alternatively, you can take a "safer," though longer, asphalt route passing through Sykourio, Elateia, Evangelismos, and Tempi. The aristocratic Ambelakia, perhaps the most famous village of Kissavos, is the perfect "epilogue," the ideal "closure of a circle" for a first attempt at discovering a magical mountain that still holds many, many secrets!

Portaria is the village that most visitors of Pelion choose as a "base," as in addition to excellent infrastructure with atmospheric guesthouses, tasteful cafes and excellent restaurants, it also has a tourist "tradition." As early as 1905, the luxurious hotel "Mega Theoxenia" operated in the village, which was unfortunately destroyed by the Germans in 1944. During its heyday, it was a major attraction for all the "good society" of Greece and beyond. In recent decades, efforts have been made to "revive it," which unfortunately remained incomplete. A royal decree of 1920 that characterized Portaria – along with Kifissia and Hydra – as a "location of special natural beauty", gave it even more glamor and visitors.

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Melina Mercouri Square

Today, its main street is flooded with tourist shops of all kinds, but its most beautiful "corner" is the central square, which bears the name of the late Melina Mercouri. A short distance from the settlement you will find excellent agritourism farms that offer excellent local products and activities in nature. About 15 km away is the Pelion Ski Center, an important attraction in the area.

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Returning to the village, it is also worth visiting Panagia Portarea, the small church that was part of an old monastery, which gave its name to the settlement that developed around it during the years of Ottoman rule. In the church, which was built in 1273, you will see beautiful external frescoes. It is also worth visiting the Historical and Folklore Museum of Portaria, which is housed in the Zoulia Mansion, while from the plateau next to the "Xenia" you will enjoy an impressive panoramic view of Volos and the Pagasetic Gulf.

It is the largest village in Pelion, with 2,000 permanent residents. It is also one of the richest and most historical. From afar, its four neighborhoods -Agia Paraskevi (or "Perachora"), Agia Kyriaki, Agios Georgios, and Sotira- are clearly separated from each other, resembling four different villages that just... happened to be very close.

The initial nucleus of the village must have been formed around the 12th century, near the monastery of Metamorphosis tou Sotira, which no longer exists, somewhere in today's Sotira district. For many years it had a double name, "Sotira-Zagora", but soon only the second component remained, which comes from a Slavic word that means "place behind the mountain."

The administrative center has always been a pole of attraction for persecuted Greeks from areas where the Turkish yoke was more unbearable, especially from the 17th - 18th century onwards, when Zagora experienced economic prosperity, due to the production and trade of silk and skoutia (woolen fabrics). Most of them came from Epirus and Macedonia and brought with them this special northern Greek architecture, which today characterizes most of the villages of Pelion.

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The Zagorian Ships and the Egyptians

To overcome the obstacles posed by the mountain regarding the movement of goods, they turned their gaze to the sea, built the much-sung Zagorian ships, and through Horefto expanded their operations to the Central and Eastern Mediterranean, while where they really flourished was in the 19th century in Egypt. Those who prospered abroad did not forget their village and benefited it with various bequests.

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Others built beautiful churches, others proud mansions, one a cobblestone path, and another a road, and many together helped to build the two "cornerstones" of the village. The Ellinomouseio (early 18th century), the first important school in all of Pelion, where, among others, Rigas Feraios studied. In 1762, the famous Library of Zagora was founded, mainly thanks to the effort and contribution of the Zagorian Ecumenical Patriarch Kallinikos III and the merchant Ioannis Prigos, who had been a refugee since the age of 16, but excelled in business in Amsterdam, after previously having made the route Alexandria-Venice-Smyrna.

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Apples of Gold

From the beginning of the 20th century, they turned to agriculture and especially to their red "gold," the famous apples of Zagora. They even proceeded to found an Agricultural Cooperative as early as 1916 to better promote the delicious firikia (which were subsequently neglected) and starking delicious - today known as "Zagorin."

The fact that Zagora does not link its economic prosperity with tourism perhaps explains why it is not among the top destinations of Pelion, although it has a very remarkable infrastructure. In recent years, however, and with the contribution of the beautiful beach of Horefto (the largest in Pelion), it is entering the tourist map more and more dynamically!

At the northern edge of the Karditsa Regional Unit, Mouzaki serves not only as the area's commercial and administrative heart but also as a crucial crossroads connecting routes to and from Argithea, the stunning Lake Plastira, and the historic Pyli of Trikala. This relatively "new" and vibrant town, despite suffering setbacks from destructive storms in recent years, spreads proudly at the foothills of Mount Itamos, marking the eastern end of the mighty Agrafa range. It nestles beside the Pamisos River, a major tributary of the Pineios. Peeking through a dramatic cleft in the sheer rock faces, Mouzaki gazes upon the passes of the Southern Pindus, offering a captivating introduction to its wondrous mountainous realm.

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A Wealth of Choices

Radiating outwards from Mouzaki, a multitude of routes unfold, each holding secrets waiting to be discovered by the curious visitor. Heading west towards Argithea, just 3 km from town, lies the "Palaiokamara" of Porti, a 16th-century stone bridge, a legacy of Saint Vissarion, Metropolitan of Larissa, of which only one arch remains today. Ascending towards the village itself, you'll find a launch site for hang gliders and a challenging climbing field. Porti, beyond its sun-drenched panoramic setting, boasts the Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos dating back to 1592, remnants of ancient walls at the Palaiokastro site, and for caving enthusiasts, numerous caves await exploration at the location known as "Skala". Drawing ever closer to the realm of Argithea, we reach Oxya, a village of scattered hamlets gazing across at the peaks of Mount Karava, neatly bisected by the Pamisos River. In one of its settlements, Mesorrachi, stands the Monastery of Agia Triada (Holy Trinity) of Oxya, its walls adorned with smoke-darkened frescoes from 1682.

Heading towards Lake Plastira, which lies about 30 km from Mouzaki, a stop in Anthochori is well worthwhile. A pleasant 20-minute hike from the stone watermill leads to a small yet impressive waterfall. Equally charming is the Kamara Anthochoriou, a small stone bridge in a delightful setting, reachable after a 5 km drive along a dirt track.

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Heading Eastward

A few kilometres east of Mouzaki sits Ellinopyrgos. This traditional settlement derives its name ('Greek Tower') from the ruins of a 4th-century BC tower found on the village's northern side. Easily accessible, it offers breathtaking 360-degree views. Your gaze can stretch from Mouzaki and Pyli of Trikala all the way to Fanari and even further, towards Domokos. Although often called a 'castle', it likely served as a phryctoria (beacon tower), maintaining visual contact with the harder-to-reach towers at Ellinokastro and Pyrgos Ithomis. 

Nestled amidst lush vegetation, 1 km from Pyrgos Ithomis, the Church of the Twelve Apostles marks the entrance to the Mega Gorge. This ravine is dramatically carved between the hill of the local 'acropolis' and a rock formation known as "Stefani tis Panagias" (Our Lady's Crown), where a cave shelters a miracle-working icon.

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In Karaiskakis's Birthplace

Returning towards the plain, a detour to Mavrommati is a must. In the birthplace of Georgios Karaiskakis, the legendary, famously outspoken general of the Greek Revolution, visitors are greeted by his imposing equestrian statue. The illegitimate son of a nun known as "Kyra-Zoi," he was born in 1782 in a cave (which you can visit) located north of the village. From there, it's another 2 km to reach the historic Monastery of Agios Georgios (St. George). Back in the village square, a visit to the house where Karaiskakis lived until the age of 17 can be perfectly paired with the adjacent, wonderful Museum of Folk Art, a lifelong passion project of Mrs. Melpomeni Tziouvara.

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At the easternmost edge of the municipality, two of Karditsa's most beautiful villages await. The neighbouring settlements of Fanari and Kanalia share a strategic position, commanding views over the ancient routes from Epirus into Thessaly. Indeed, the formidable Fanari Castle was one of the most significant Byzantine strongholds of its era. Kanalia, with its almost 'suspended' square hosting delightful tavernas, its winding alleys touched by hints of Epirote architecture, and its sweeping vistas encompassing Fanari Castle, distant Mount Olympus, and the boundless plain, provides the perfect, picturesque 'epilogue' to your explorations.

The Sofades region is famous for its agricultural character and the production of high-quality products. The fertile plain of Karditsa allows for the intensive cultivation of cotton, corn, cereals, and legumes. The locals continue to maintain a strong bond with the land and their traditions, offering visitors authentic flavors and heartfelt hospitality.

It is a destination that combines natural beauty, cultural heritage, and unique experiences for all visitors. From the thermal springs and Lake Smokovo to the picturesque villages and the adrenaline of the Acropolis Rally, the area offers much more than one expects.

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Thermal Springs and Lake Smokovo

The Smokovo thermal springs are one of the most important wellness destinations in the region. With a history that is lost in the centuries, the thermal springs are known for their therapeutic properties and high content of carbon dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, and other beneficial minerals. The facilities offer modern infrastructure, while their natural location - in a green landscape - guarantees tranquility and relaxation. Almost unknown and "unorganized" are the Soylanta thermal springs that maintain a special "primitive" charm.

A short distance from the baths, Lake Smokovo stretches between the hills of the area, offering an impressive setting. The artificial lake was created for irrigation and energy purposes, but has now become a favorite destination for nature lovers and those seeking quiet moments in nature. Here you can enjoy walks, picnics, fishing, and photographic excursions thanks to the rich flora and fauna of the area. Cultural events are organized in the beautiful outdoor theater of Ktimeni, including concerts that are part of the Lake Festival organized by the Region of Thessaly. Beautiful views of the lake can be enjoyed from the picturesque village of Loutropigi (old name, "Smokovo").

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Rentina: A Living Village-Museum

Rentina, built amphitheatrically on the slopes of Agrafa, is one of the most traditional villages in the Municipality of Sofades. With a strong architectural character, stone houses, and cobbled streets, it is a real gem with a rich history. Significant attractions are the Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos and the Folklore Museum. The village comes alive especially in the summer, with cultural events, festivals, and local celebrations. At a distance of 7 km from the village lies the historic Monastery of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary (“Rentina Monastery”). From the village, numerous hiking trails begin, leading deep into the very “heart” of the Agrafa mountains.

Acropolis Rally 2025 - Special Route in the Municipality of Sofades

2025 brings to the fore a unique experience for motorsport enthusiasts and puts Thessaly back on the "map" of the WRC. The Municipality of Sofades will host one of the special routes of the Acropolis Rally, one of the most historic and famous rally races worldwide. The new Smokovo special route, 24.59 kilometers long, near the homonymous artificial lake, makes its debut, offering an impressive setting for both spectators and drivers. This is an important moment for the area, which is expected to attract thousands of visitors and motorsport fans from Greece and abroad.

"Wild" and "untamed" are two words that often cling to Agrafa, ever since the days when attempts to list it in Ottoman tax records proved futile, effectively wiping it 'off the map'. This region has always been a heartland of resistance, from the long years of Ottoman rule and the dark days of the German Occupation right up to the present, where locals fiercely oppose the installation of wind turbines. 

It remains one of Greece's most remote and rugged corners, especially during the harsh winter months. But this isolation isn't necessarily a drawback. Here, nature endures untouched, pristine, and utterly magnificent. The way of life for the few remaining inhabitants feels like stepping out of a time capsule. Visitors get a potent taste of "old Greece" – a spirit unyielding in the face of hardship, a constant dialogue with the elements of nature, an unwavering love for the land, and a pure, selfless hospitality offered without expectation. 

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Argithea isn't for everyone, nor is it for those seeking creature comforts and luxury. It will capture the hearts of the initiated, the mindful travellers, the lovers of authentic experiences and genuine adventure – those who don't mind stepping outside their comfort zone. With its countless deep gorges and just as many towering peaks (seven soaring above 2,000 meters), blanketed in dense forests of fir, beech, chestnut, cedar, oak, and holm oak, nature enthusiasts and hikers will discover their ultimate playground. The ever-helpful members of the Hellenic Mountaineering Club (EOS) of Karditsa (tel: +30 6940794395 & +30 6974110853) can offer guidance or even welcome visitors on their excursions. Travellers will also find sparsely populated villages scattered across the landscape, historic monasteries, dozens of enchanting stone bridges, and Greece's youngest natural lake, Stefaniada, formed dramatically in 1963 when the 'Stoichio' mountainside broke away from Mount Sminiko, damming a tributary of the Acheloos River. 

Argithea is broadly divided into two (plus one) areas, Eastern and Western, accessible via two main routes, the southern and northern, respectively. Both journeys begin from Mouzaki – and heed this warning: fill your vehicle's fuel tank here, because you won't find another petrol station once you venture deep into the mountains. Depending on the season and weather conditions, these two routes can connect further west via a passable dirt road, just before reaching the Acheloos valley, which essentially forms a third 'sub-region'. In winter, however, making this connection becomes challenging, if not impossible.

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Eastern Argithea

Following the southern route, the first village you'll encounter after crossing the Oxya pass is picturesque Vlasi, perched at 1060 meters on the slopes of Mount Karava. Opposite lies one of the region's largest and most renowned villages, Petrilo, also known as "Ta Petrilia" due to its scattered settlements. Until 1821, Petrilia boasted a population of 5,000 souls. In 1944, its Primary School served as the seat of the wartime 'Government of the Mountains'. At its heart lies the Monastery of the Nativity of the Theotokos – though locals persistently call it by its old name: Monastery of Agios Charalambos. In the Haris neighbourhood stands the stone-built Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos, one of 19 churches dotted among the hamlets. Traditionally, the faithful return in the summer, some from Schimatari, others from Larissa. The people of Vlasi migrated closer – they now ascend from Mouzaki. 

In Drosato, you'll find a beautiful stone bridge, while in Petrochori and the nearby pastoral settlements of Patlia and Evakli, it's worth seeking out authentic local Agrafa feta cheese and the unique tsalafouti, a soft, creamy cheese. In neighbouring Leontito, once a hideout for the armatolos Karaiskakis, the village square is dominated by a colossal plane tree, reputed to be 1,000 years old! A little further west lies an "eagle's nest of faith," the most significant pilgrimage site in the area, the Monastery of Spilia (Cave Monastery). The final stop on this route is Lake Stefaniada, where, with the help of Finix Adventures (tel. +30 6977663453) and the intrepid Vasiliki Koimtzidou, you can indulge in numerous outdoor activities – a possibility that extends throughout the wider region.

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Western Argithea

The second, northern route requires crossing Tympanos, the passage over the infamous mountain saddle which is to Thessaly what the notorious "Katara Pass" is to Epirus. Crossing it during the winter months is extremely difficult without snow chains and strictly prohibited after dark. Over the years, many Argitheans have tragically lost their lives to avalanches while attempting the passage. To honour their memory, the Municipality of Argithea has erected the "Memorial to Argitheans Lost Unjustly in the Snows" at this poignant spot.

The first village along this route is Argithea itself, which, despite its name, isn't the municipal 'capital', as its permanent residents can be counted on one hand. About 3 km further lies the junction of Agorasia,  where two traditional cafes operate. Here you can grab a simple bite, stock up on cigarettes and snacks, and even purchase petrol by the canister in an emergency. This is also the turn-off for Karya, while its famous stone bridge (also known as "Trizolos", or "Trizol'" to locals), the largest in Thessaly, is located a short distance further on. 

Just before Agorasia, steps lead up to the necropolis of ancient Argithea, a remnant of the capital of the ancient Athamanes tribe. Shortly after Agorasia, a right turn leads to Anthiro, the most vibrant village in the area and the administrative seat of the Municipality of Argithea. Here you'll find an interesting Ecclesiastical museum, cafes, tavernas, a mini-market, a trout farm, watermills, and the beautiful springs of Gkoura. It has it all! Just 3 km north of Anthiro lies the impressive but deserted 17th-century Katosio Monastery.

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Returning to the 'main' road and heading downhill, just before crossing the Liaskovitiko stream, an exit on the right leads to Petroto (formerly known as "Liaskovo"), and continues, running almost parallel to the Acheloos riverbed, towards Kali Komi, with its church of Agios Nikolaos, and Ellinika. From Ellinika, via a dirt road and a rather challenging 2km footpath, you can reach the stunning Korakonissi bridge.

After this detour, you'll cross the Liaskovitiko stream via the metal bridge, and on your right, you'll spot one of the most beautiful stone bridges in the region, that of Petroto. From here on, passing through tunnels carved directly into the bare rock, you'll finally descend into the Acheloos valley.

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The Acheloos Valley

The controversial, unfinished dam at Sykia divides the Acheloos valley into two sections. To the north, it remains quite narrow, while slightly further south, it begins to widen. Immediately after exiting the last tunnel before the settlement of Sykia, look across the river to see the Koulia (an Ottoman watchtower) that once stood beside the legendary Korakos bridge. This was once the largest single-arched bridge in Greece, boasting an arch span of 45 meters and a height of 25 meters. It connected Thessaly with Epirus from 1514 until it was tragically blown up during the Greek Civil War with 61 kilograms of dynamite.

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In Neochoria Vrangianon, you can see the old 'perataria' (an aerial pulley system), a hand-operated 'cable car' that crosses high above the Acheloos, linking Karditsa with Arta, Epirus with Thessaly. It officially operated until 1997 with an appointed operator – the 'perataris' – employed by the Karditsa Prefecture. A little further up, in Vrangiana, the seat of the former Acheloos Municipality, electricity only arrived in 1981. The 150 families that once lived here have dwindled to around 200 people engaged in farming and livestock breeding, living alongside their local treasure, the Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Saviour.

The most lively village in this part of the valley is Argyri, very close to the 'border' with Evrytania. It boasts a cafe and a school, and is inhabited by young people who, swimming 'against the current', choose to spend their winters in their homeland and their summers working in tourism on the islands. Seven kilometres south of Argyri, at the 'quadripoint' where Karditsa, Evrytania, Aetoloakarnania, and Arta meet, the magnificent, four-arched stone bridge of Katafylli – Avlaki, spanning the turquoise waters of the Acheloos, serves as a spectacular finish line for the challenging yet deeply captivating exploration of the Thessalian Agrafa.

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Your strolls around the city can begin at its significant "green lung," the large park with the beautiful name "Pausilipo". At the café of the same name, you can enjoy moments of relaxation while children play at the adjacent playground or marvel at the peacocks roaming freely. If you happen to see a male peacock spreading its feathers, grab your camera—it’s the most stunning fan you’ll ever see! Beyond being a recreational area, the park also serves as a cultural hub, hosting numerous events throughout the year.

In the square next to Pausilipo, you’ll admire the sculpture "My Mother" by the renowned artist Christos Kapralos, a gift from the Hellenic Parliament to the Municipality of Karditsa. On the other side of the square stands the statue of the "Black Horseman," Nikolaos Plastiras. On the park's western side, you’ll find the Metropolitan Church of Saints Constantine and Helen.

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The City Center

From Pausilipo, following the city’s main and most "lively" pedestrian street, Dimitriou Tertipi Street, you’ll arrive at the Central Square, dominated by the building of "Pallas," which now houses a branch of Alpha Bank. Built in the late interwar period, this building was, for decades, the city’s most important venue for entertainment, featuring cinema and theater halls, a café, and a luxurious bar-restaurant. The square also features a unique fountain, created in 2004–2005 by internationally acclaimed landscape sculptor Nella Golanda from Larissa. This three-dimensional "compass" depicts, among other things, the most prominent constellations visible from Thessaly. Close to the square, on Karaiskaki Street, you’ll find one of the city’s most beautiful buildings, the "Arni" Hotel.

About 100 meters south of the square lies the city’s most impressive building, the Municipal Market, constructed in the late 1920s and declared a European Architectural Heritage Monument in 1992. Around the Market, you’ll find several old shops that exude a charming "retro" vibe.

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Cultural Spaces

Nearby, you’ll find the Archaeological Museum of Karditsa, inaugurated in 2012. This modern and well-curated museum showcases the significant yet lesser-known archaeological treasures of the Karditsa Regional Unit. Another important cultural hub is the Municipal Art Gallery, which houses a permanent collection featuring works by notable artists from Karditsa, including the acclaimed Dimitris Gioldasis. The gallery also frequently hosts temporary exhibitions with retrospective, group, or thematic focuses.

Just 3 kilometers from the city lies the forest of Paparantza, or "Chilia Dendra" (Thousand Trees). With its massive, centuries-old trees, it is an enchanting and beautiful recreational spot year-round.

The two historic settlements have, understandably, taken a back seat, leaving the leading role to the spectacle of Meteora. Nevertheless, they have a rich history and deserve the visitor's attention. Traditionally, their economy was based on agriculture and livestock farming, but with the advent of mass tourism, most residents turned to the hospitality and catering sector, a fact that had an impact on their residential image. In Kalambaka, Sopoto and Kastraki, in Mesochori, picturesque "corners" that remind us of the past are preserved.

The area has been inhabited since the Neolithic times, as evidenced by the findings in the nearby Cave of Theopetra, which, by the way, is expected to reopen its "gates" to the public in the coming months.

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From Aeginio to Kalambaka

In Roman times, there was a city in the area called Aeginio, which is mentioned by Strabo, who, paradoxically, makes no mention of the impressive geological phenomenon of Meteora. During the Byzantine years, present-day Kalambaka was called Stagoi, with the following most likely etymological explanations: a) 's tois agious-stagious-stagous- The Stagoi, b) from "stagos", i.e. wheat carrier, c) from the Slavic word "stagia", which means chambers or cavities of rocks. There are two versions for the modern name. The first is that it comes from the Byzantine family Kalabaka, the second is that it comes from the Turkish "kale-bak", which means "prominent, strong fortress".

The most important attraction of the city is the three-aisled Basilica of the Dormition (10th-11th century), with the impressive "central" marble pulpit. It is located under the imposing, vertical rock of Agia. A visit to the Museum of Natural History and Mushrooms is a must, on the two floors of which you will see incredibly realistic representations of mammals and birds as well as all the mushrooms of the area. The Museum is also "responsible" for the Pan-Hellenic Truffle Festival, which has been organized with great success in Kalambaka for the last two years. Of particular interest is also the School of Wood Carving, the only vocational school of its kind in Greece, which has been operating since 1949.

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In a Stone Embrace

Kastraki is the "par excellence" settlement of Meteora and seems to have nestled in the embrace of stone towers. Regarding the name of the village, it seems that during the Byzantine years there was a real castle here, but it could also come from the natural castle that the rocks form around it. Its first inhabitants must have been Epirotes, from Northern Epirus, who initially founded the settlements Rouxiori, Agia Paraskevi, Righilavo and Triskiano, which were united in the early 18th century, forming today's village.

Kastraki is offered as a base for hiking among the rocks of Meteora. If you are here on the feast of Saint George, do not miss watching the "replacement" of the handkerchiefs at Agios Georgios Mandilas, a small monastery of the 14th century, which is perfectly "integrated" into a rock of Meteora.

If you want to enjoy the most impressive, "aerial" view of Kalambaka, Kastraki and Meteora, look for the road to the resort settlement Koromilia, which from a height of 1150 meters offers a unique panorama!