Mount Kissavos (also known as "Ossa") captivates from afar. Its peak forms an almost perfect, natural pyramid, often crowned with an "eternal" cloud. At its "alpine" altitudes, just a few hundred meters below the summit of Prophet Elias (1,978 m), the mountain is bare yet gentle on the eyes, thanks to its smooth slopes. Compared to its neighboring Mount Olympus (a comparison that will always be made!), Kissavos feels more "friendly" and closer to human scale.

Up close and at lower altitudes, it becomes even more impressive. Its dense forests and rich flora have earned it the nickname "botanical garden". Frequent mists and abundant running waters give it a fairytale-like character, sparking human imagination since ancient times. Numerous myths are associated with it. Over the years, it has been considered the birthplace of nymphs, the final resting place of the demigod Heracles, and a possible passage of the goddess Demeter to the Underworld.

The scenery is complemented by a cluster of picturesque villages, breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea, and proximity to some of the most popular beaches in Larissa. Here, the dilemma of "mountain or sea" doesn't even arise; visitors can enjoy both! Kissavos offers a place with mild tourist development, ideal for those seeking quiet holidays and a connection with nature. The area is perfect for various outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, and canyoning.

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The Noble Agia

A journey to Kissavos begins at its foothills, from its "capital," Agia (also the "capital" of the coastline and Mavrovouni). This historically prosperous town owes its development to the fertile land surrounding it. In the 17^th and 18^th centuries, it was a significant center for cotton and silk production. Evidence of its past prosperity can be seen in the numerous mansions of the "Upper Town," such as those of Alexoulis (Kalypsous), Petrakis, Antoniou, Efstratiadis, Evroudis, Tzitzilieris, and the Kalogeros Tower. Most of these can be found along 25^th March Street. Today, its wealth mainly comes from cherries, pears, and apples. Apples, in particular, are celebrated with special events every September. Daily life revolves around the bustling central square and the commercial pedestrian street starting from it. Nearby, you'll find the church of Saint Anthony, the town's patron saint. Behind its altar, look for the chains once used to tie the mentally ill and "possessed" until the early 20^th century for "healing." Just outside Agia, to the east, lies an important religious monument, the Monastery of Saint Panteleimon, with a main church dating back to 1292.

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On the Southern Slopes

Close by, to the west and almost adjoining Agia, is one of Kissavos' most famous villages, Metaxochori (formerly known by its Slavic name "Retsiani," meaning "River Village"). Its modern name derives from the silk production that flourished during the 17^th and 18^th centuries, leaving behind magnificent mansions and "silk houses". Metaxochori lives up to its reputation with its stunning architecture, unique atmosphere, and beautiful square by the Amyros River. In recent decades, it has often been called the "village of artists," as many artists have chosen it as their permanent residence.

Higher up, the neighboring Megalovryso (formerly "Nivoliani") is also gaining an artistic vibe, especially since renowned Larissa-born artist Thanasis Papakonstantinou set up his recording studio "Achos" here. Megalovryso is a charming village with many stone houses, reportedly built by craftsmen from Epirus. From here, you could head east to the larger and more vibrant village of Melivoia, but before that, it's worth backtracking west to the highest village of Kissavos, Anatoli (formerly "Selitsani"), at an altitude of 960 meters. Many residents of Larissa have summer homes here, in a village renowned as a summer retreat since Ottoman times. Look for the stone bridge from 1860, the church of St. George with its flame-shaped windows, and the notable museum. A few kilometers west of the village lies the new Monastery of Timios Prodromos, near the ruins of the 1550 monastery. Managed by nuns from around the world, the monastery is known for its significant ecological and agrotourism initiatives. Between the monastery and the village, a rugged dirt road (accessible only with an off-road vehicle) leads to abandoned OTE installations and antennas. From there, the breathtaking view and easy access to the summit of Kissavos, with the "underground" chapel of Prophet Elias, make for an unforgettable experience—weather permitting, of course!

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A Balcony Overlooking the Aegean

With over 1,200 permanent residents, Melivoia could claim the title of "capital" of Kissavos, if not for Agia. This large village, with a long tradition in silk production and winemaking, is also renowned for its exceptional chestnuts. The view of the Agia plain, Mavrovouni, and, of course, the Aegean Sea is simply unique. A downhill road—with its fair share of twists and turns—connects you to the popular beaches of Velika, Sotiritsa, and Agiokampos.

Melivoia also serves as the "gateway" to the Aesthetic Forest of Ossa. Spanning over 20,000 hectares, this is the largest of its kind in Greece and a protected area under the "NATURA 2000" network. Dense mixed forests of beech, oak, chestnut, and fir invite exploration by car, but even better on foot. Especially in autumn, the vibrant colors of the mixed vegetation enchant visitors. On this eastern side of the mountain lies one of its most spectacular "secrets," the impressive Kalypso Waterfall. Located near Karitsa, a village that feels like a balcony over the Aegean, the waterfall can be reached by following a relatively easy dirt road heading south from the village. After about 5 kilometers, you'll find signs marking the short and easy (20–30 minutes) trail to the waterfall, where you can enjoy a refreshing swim in its natural pools. Alternatively, you can take a dip in the therapeutic springs of Kokkino Nero, just a short distance from Karitsa. Nearby, you'll also find the stone bridge of Paparizaina.

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Crossing to the "Other" Side

Leaving Karitsa and heading north, you can reach Stomio and the delta of the Pineios River. Just before Stomio, it's worth making a stop at the Monastery of Saint Dimitrios, also known as Panagia Komnineiou or Oikonomiou. The official and imposing name of the monastery, "Komninei Holy Monastery of the Dormition of the Theotokos and Saint Dimitrios," reflects its profound history, with roots stretching back to Byzantine times.

From Karitsa, you can re-enter the "heart" of the mountain by heading east. The road crosses to the "other" side and leads to the Kissavos Mountain Refuge at 1,604 meters. From there, after about two hours of relatively easy hiking, you can reach the summit. Lower down, in Spilia, with its famous taverns, you'll be rewarded for your efforts. From Spilia, a passable dirt road about 20 kilometers long leads to the historic Ambelakia. Alternatively, you can take a "safer," though longer, asphalt route passing through Sykourio, Elateia, Evangelismos, and Tempi. The aristocratic Ambelakia, perhaps the most famous village of Kissavos, is the perfect "epilogue," the ideal "closure of a circle" for a first attempt at discovering a magical mountain that still holds many, many secrets!

Portaria is the village that most visitors of Pelion choose as a "base," as in addition to excellent infrastructure with atmospheric guesthouses, tasteful cafes and excellent restaurants, it also has a tourist "tradition." As early as 1905, the luxurious hotel "Mega Theoxenia" operated in the village, which was unfortunately destroyed by the Germans in 1944. During its heyday, it was a major attraction for all the "good society" of Greece and beyond. In recent decades, efforts have been made to "revive it," which unfortunately remained incomplete. A royal decree of 1920 that characterized Portaria – along with Kifissia and Hydra – as a "location of special natural beauty", gave it even more glamor and visitors.

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Melina Mercouri Square

Today, its main street is flooded with tourist shops of all kinds, but its most beautiful "corner" is the central square, which bears the name of the late Melina Mercouri. A short distance from the settlement you will find excellent agritourism farms that offer excellent local products and activities in nature. About 15 km away is the Pelion Ski Center, an important attraction in the area.

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Returning to the village, it is also worth visiting Panagia Portarea, the small church that was part of an old monastery, which gave its name to the settlement that developed around it during the years of Ottoman rule. In the church, which was built in 1273, you will see beautiful external frescoes. It is also worth visiting the Historical and Folklore Museum of Portaria, which is housed in the Zoulia Mansion, while from the plateau next to the "Xenia" you will enjoy an impressive panoramic view of Volos and the Pagasetic Gulf.

It is the largest village in Pelion, with 2,000 permanent residents. It is also one of the richest and most historical. From afar, its four neighborhoods -Agia Paraskevi (or "Perachora"), Agia Kyriaki, Agios Georgios, and Sotira- are clearly separated from each other, resembling four different villages that just... happened to be very close.

The initial nucleus of the village must have been formed around the 12th century, near the monastery of Metamorphosis tou Sotira, which no longer exists, somewhere in today's Sotira district. For many years it had a double name, "Sotira-Zagora", but soon only the second component remained, which comes from a Slavic word that means "place behind the mountain."

The administrative center has always been a pole of attraction for persecuted Greeks from areas where the Turkish yoke was more unbearable, especially from the 17th - 18th century onwards, when Zagora experienced economic prosperity, due to the production and trade of silk and skoutia (woolen fabrics). Most of them came from Epirus and Macedonia and brought with them this special northern Greek architecture, which today characterizes most of the villages of Pelion.

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The Zagorian Ships and the Egyptians

To overcome the obstacles posed by the mountain regarding the movement of goods, they turned their gaze to the sea, built the much-sung Zagorian ships, and through Horefto expanded their operations to the Central and Eastern Mediterranean, while where they really flourished was in the 19th century in Egypt. Those who prospered abroad did not forget their village and benefited it with various bequests.

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Others built beautiful churches, others proud mansions, one a cobblestone path, and another a road, and many together helped to build the two "cornerstones" of the village. The Ellinomouseio (early 18th century), the first important school in all of Pelion, where, among others, Rigas Feraios studied. In 1762, the famous Library of Zagora was founded, mainly thanks to the effort and contribution of the Zagorian Ecumenical Patriarch Kallinikos III and the merchant Ioannis Prigos, who had been a refugee since the age of 16, but excelled in business in Amsterdam, after previously having made the route Alexandria-Venice-Smyrna.

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Apples of Gold

From the beginning of the 20th century, they turned to agriculture and especially to their red "gold," the famous apples of Zagora. They even proceeded to found an Agricultural Cooperative as early as 1916 to better promote the delicious firikia (which were subsequently neglected) and starking delicious - today known as "Zagorin."

The fact that Zagora does not link its economic prosperity with tourism perhaps explains why it is not among the top destinations of Pelion, although it has a very remarkable infrastructure. In recent years, however, and with the contribution of the beautiful beach of Horefto (the largest in Pelion), it is entering the tourist map more and more dynamically!

At the northern edge of the Karditsa Regional Unit, Mouzaki serves not only as the area's commercial and administrative heart but also as a crucial crossroads connecting routes to and from Argithea, the stunning Lake Plastira, and the historic Pyli of Trikala. This relatively "new" and vibrant town, despite suffering setbacks from destructive storms in recent years, spreads proudly at the foothills of Mount Itamos, marking the eastern end of the mighty Agrafa range. It nestles beside the Pamisos River, a major tributary of the Pineios. Peeking through a dramatic cleft in the sheer rock faces, Mouzaki gazes upon the passes of the Southern Pindus, offering a captivating introduction to its wondrous mountainous realm.

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A Wealth of Choices

Radiating outwards from Mouzaki, a multitude of routes unfold, each holding secrets waiting to be discovered by the curious visitor. Heading west towards Argithea, just 3 km from town, lies the "Palaiokamara" of Porti, a 16th-century stone bridge, a legacy of Saint Vissarion, Metropolitan of Larissa, of which only one arch remains today. Ascending towards the village itself, you'll find a launch site for hang gliders and a challenging climbing field. Porti, beyond its sun-drenched panoramic setting, boasts the Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos dating back to 1592, remnants of ancient walls at the Palaiokastro site, and for caving enthusiasts, numerous caves await exploration at the location known as "Skala". Drawing ever closer to the realm of Argithea, we reach Oxya, a village of scattered hamlets gazing across at the peaks of Mount Karava, neatly bisected by the Pamisos River. In one of its settlements, Mesorrachi, stands the Monastery of Agia Triada (Holy Trinity) of Oxya, its walls adorned with smoke-darkened frescoes from 1682.

Heading towards Lake Plastira, which lies about 30 km from Mouzaki, a stop in Anthochori is well worthwhile. A pleasant 20-minute hike from the stone watermill leads to a small yet impressive waterfall. Equally charming is the Kamara Anthochoriou, a small stone bridge in a delightful setting, reachable after a 5 km drive along a dirt track.

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Heading Eastward

A few kilometres east of Mouzaki sits Ellinopyrgos. This traditional settlement derives its name ('Greek Tower') from the ruins of a 4th-century BC tower found on the village's northern side. Easily accessible, it offers breathtaking 360-degree views. Your gaze can stretch from Mouzaki and Pyli of Trikala all the way to Fanari and even further, towards Domokos. Although often called a 'castle', it likely served as a phryctoria (beacon tower), maintaining visual contact with the harder-to-reach towers at Ellinokastro and Pyrgos Ithomis. 

Nestled amidst lush vegetation, 1 km from Pyrgos Ithomis, the Church of the Twelve Apostles marks the entrance to the Mega Gorge. This ravine is dramatically carved between the hill of the local 'acropolis' and a rock formation known as "Stefani tis Panagias" (Our Lady's Crown), where a cave shelters a miracle-working icon.

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In Karaiskakis's Birthplace

Returning towards the plain, a detour to Mavrommati is a must. In the birthplace of Georgios Karaiskakis, the legendary, famously outspoken general of the Greek Revolution, visitors are greeted by his imposing equestrian statue. The illegitimate son of a nun known as "Kyra-Zoi," he was born in 1782 in a cave (which you can visit) located north of the village. From there, it's another 2 km to reach the historic Monastery of Agios Georgios (St. George). Back in the village square, a visit to the house where Karaiskakis lived until the age of 17 can be perfectly paired with the adjacent, wonderful Museum of Folk Art, a lifelong passion project of Mrs. Melpomeni Tziouvara.

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At the easternmost edge of the municipality, two of Karditsa's most beautiful villages await. The neighbouring settlements of Fanari and Kanalia share a strategic position, commanding views over the ancient routes from Epirus into Thessaly. Indeed, the formidable Fanari Castle was one of the most significant Byzantine strongholds of its era. Kanalia, with its almost 'suspended' square hosting delightful tavernas, its winding alleys touched by hints of Epirote architecture, and its sweeping vistas encompassing Fanari Castle, distant Mount Olympus, and the boundless plain, provides the perfect, picturesque 'epilogue' to your explorations.

The Sofades region is famous for its agricultural character and the production of high-quality products. The fertile plain of Karditsa allows for the intensive cultivation of cotton, corn, cereals, and legumes. The locals continue to maintain a strong bond with the land and their traditions, offering visitors authentic flavors and heartfelt hospitality.

It is a destination that combines natural beauty, cultural heritage, and unique experiences for all visitors. From the thermal springs and Lake Smokovo to the picturesque villages and the adrenaline of the Acropolis Rally, the area offers much more than one expects.

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Thermal Springs and Lake Smokovo

The Smokovo thermal springs are one of the most important wellness destinations in the region. With a history that is lost in the centuries, the thermal springs are known for their therapeutic properties and high content of carbon dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, and other beneficial minerals. The facilities offer modern infrastructure, while their natural location - in a green landscape - guarantees tranquility and relaxation. Almost unknown and "unorganized" are the Soylanta thermal springs that maintain a special "primitive" charm.

A short distance from the baths, Lake Smokovo stretches between the hills of the area, offering an impressive setting. The artificial lake was created for irrigation and energy purposes, but has now become a favorite destination for nature lovers and those seeking quiet moments in nature. Here you can enjoy walks, picnics, fishing, and photographic excursions thanks to the rich flora and fauna of the area. Cultural events are organized in the beautiful outdoor theater of Ktimeni, including concerts that are part of the Lake Festival organized by the Region of Thessaly. Beautiful views of the lake can be enjoyed from the picturesque village of Loutropigi.

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Rentina: A Living Village-Museum

Rentina, built amphitheatrically on the slopes of Agrafa, is one of the most traditional villages in the Municipality of Sofades. With a strong architectural character, stone houses, and cobbled streets, it is a real gem with a rich history. Significant attractions are the Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos and the Folklore Museum. The village comes alive especially in the summer, with cultural events, festivals, and local celebrations.

Acropolis Rally 2025 - Special Route in the Municipality of Sofades

2025 brings to the fore a unique experience for motorsport enthusiasts and puts Thessaly back on the "map" of the WRC. The Municipality of Sofades will host one of the special routes of the Acropolis Rally, one of the most historic and famous rally races worldwide. The new Smokovo special route, 24.59 kilometers long, near the homonymous artificial lake, makes its debut, offering an impressive setting for both spectators and drivers. This is an important moment for the area, which is expected to attract thousands of visitors and motorsport fans from Greece and abroad.

"Wild" and "untamed" are two words that often cling to Agrafa, ever since the days when attempts to list it in Ottoman tax records proved futile, effectively wiping it 'off the map'. This region has always been a heartland of resistance, from the long years of Ottoman rule and the dark days of the German Occupation right up to the present, where locals fiercely oppose the installation of wind turbines. 

It remains one of Greece's most remote and rugged corners, especially during the harsh winter months. But this isolation isn't necessarily a drawback. Here, nature endures untouched, pristine, and utterly magnificent. The way of life for the few remaining inhabitants feels like stepping out of a time capsule. Visitors get a potent taste of "old Greece" – a spirit unyielding in the face of hardship, a constant dialogue with the elements of nature, an unwavering love for the land, and a pure, selfless hospitality offered without expectation. 

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Argithea isn't for everyone, nor is it for those seeking creature comforts and luxury. It will capture the hearts of the initiated, the mindful travellers, the lovers of authentic experiences and genuine adventure – those who don't mind stepping outside their comfort zone. With its countless deep gorges and just as many towering peaks (seven soaring above 2,000 meters), blanketed in dense forests of fir, beech, chestnut, cedar, oak, and holm oak, nature enthusiasts and hikers will discover their ultimate playground. The ever-helpful members of the Hellenic Mountaineering Club (EOS) of Karditsa (tel: +30 6940794395 & +30 6974110853) can offer guidance or even welcome visitors on their excursions. Travellers will also find sparsely populated villages scattered across the landscape, historic monasteries, dozens of enchanting stone bridges, and Greece's youngest natural lake, Stefaniada, formed dramatically in 1963 when the 'Stoichio' mountainside broke away from Mount Sminiko, damming a tributary of the Acheloos River. 

Argithea is broadly divided into two (plus one) areas, Eastern and Western, accessible via two main routes, the southern and northern, respectively. Both journeys begin from Mouzaki – and heed this warning: fill your vehicle's fuel tank here, because you won't find another petrol station once you venture deep into the mountains. Depending on the season and weather conditions, these two routes can connect further west via a passable dirt road, just before reaching the Acheloos valley, which essentially forms a third 'sub-region'. In winter, however, making this connection becomes challenging, if not impossible.

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Eastern Argithea

Following the southern route, the first village you'll encounter after crossing the Oxya pass is picturesque Vlasi, perched at 1060 meters on the slopes of Mount Karava. Opposite lies one of the region's largest and most renowned villages, Petrilo, also known as "Ta Petrilia" due to its scattered settlements. Until 1821, Petrilia boasted a population of 5,000 souls. In 1944, its Primary School served as the seat of the wartime 'Government of the Mountains'. At its heart lies the Monastery of the Nativity of the Theotokos – though locals persistently call it by its old name: Monastery of Agios Charalambos. In the Haris neighbourhood stands the stone-built Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos, one of 19 churches dotted among the hamlets. Traditionally, the faithful return in the summer, some from Schimatari, others from Larissa. The people of Vlasi migrated closer – they now ascend from Mouzaki. 

In Drosato, you'll find a beautiful stone bridge, while in Petrochori and the nearby pastoral settlements of Patlia and Evakli, it's worth seeking out authentic local Agrafa feta cheese and the unique tsalafouti, a soft, creamy cheese. In neighbouring Leontito, once a hideout for the armatolos Karaiskakis, the village square is dominated by a colossal plane tree, reputed to be 1,000 years old! A little further west lies an "eagle's nest of faith," the most significant pilgrimage site in the area, the Monastery of Spilia (Cave Monastery). The final stop on this route is Lake Stefaniada, where, with the help of Finix Adventures (tel. +30 6977663453) and the intrepid Vasiliki Koimtzidou, you can indulge in numerous outdoor activities – a possibility that extends throughout the wider region.

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Western Argithea

The second, northern route requires crossing Tympanos, the passage over the infamous mountain saddle which is to Thessaly what the notorious "Katara Pass" is to Epirus. Crossing it during the winter months is extremely difficult without snow chains and strictly prohibited after dark. Over the years, many Argitheans have tragically lost their lives to avalanches while attempting the passage. To honour their memory, the Municipality of Argithea has erected the "Memorial to Argitheans Lost Unjustly in the Snows" at this poignant spot.

The first village along this route is Argithea itself, which, despite its name, isn't the municipal 'capital', as its permanent residents can be counted on one hand. About 3 km further lies the junction of Agorasia,  where two traditional cafes operate. Here you can grab a simple bite, stock up on cigarettes and snacks, and even purchase petrol by the canister in an emergency. This is also the turn-off for Karya, while its famous stone bridge (also known as "Trizolos", or "Trizol'" to locals), the largest in Thessaly, is located a short distance further on. 

Just before Agorasia, steps lead up to the necropolis of ancient Argithea, a remnant of the capital of the ancient Athamanes tribe. Shortly after Agorasia, a right turn leads to Anthiro, the most vibrant village in the area and the administrative seat of the Municipality of Argithea. Here you'll find an interesting Ecclesiastical museum, cafes, tavernas, a mini-market, a trout farm, watermills, and the beautiful springs of Gkoura. It has it all! Just 3 km north of Anthiro lies the impressive but deserted 17th-century Katosio Monastery.

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Returning to the 'main' road and heading downhill, just before crossing the Liaskovitiko stream, an exit on the right leads to Petroto (formerly known as "Liaskovo"), and continues, running almost parallel to the Acheloos riverbed, towards Kali Komi, with its church of Agios Nikolaos, and Ellinika. From Ellinika, via a dirt road and a rather challenging 2km footpath, you can reach the stunning Korakonissi bridge.

After this detour, you'll cross the Liaskovitiko stream via the metal bridge, and on your right, you'll spot one of the most beautiful stone bridges in the region, that of Petroto. From here on, passing through tunnels carved directly into the bare rock, you'll finally descend into the Acheloos valley.

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The Acheloos Valley

The controversial, unfinished dam at Sykia divides the Acheloos valley into two sections. To the north, it remains quite narrow, while slightly further south, it begins to widen. Immediately after exiting the last tunnel before the settlement of Sykia, look across the river to see the Koulia (an Ottoman watchtower) that once stood beside the legendary Korakos bridge. This was once the largest single-arched bridge in Greece, boasting an arch span of 45 meters and a height of 25 meters. It connected Thessaly with Epirus from 1514 until it was tragically blown up during the Greek Civil War with 61 kilograms of dynamite.

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In Neochoria Vrangianon, you can see the old 'perataria' (an aerial pulley system), a hand-operated 'cable car' that crosses high above the Acheloos, linking Karditsa with Arta, Epirus with Thessaly. It officially operated until 1997 with an appointed operator – the 'perataris' – employed by the Karditsa Prefecture. A little further up, in Vrangiana, the seat of the former Acheloos Municipality, electricity only arrived in 1981. The 150 families that once lived here have dwindled to around 200 people engaged in farming and livestock breeding, living alongside their local treasure, the Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Saviour.

The most lively village in this part of the valley is Argyri, very close to the 'border' with Evrytania. It boasts a cafe and a school, and is inhabited by young people who, swimming 'against the current', choose to spend their winters in their homeland and their summers working in tourism on the islands. Seven kilometres south of Argyri, at the 'quadripoint' where Karditsa, Evrytania, Aetoloakarnania, and Arta meet, the magnificent, four-arched stone bridge of Katafylli – Avlaki, spanning the turquoise waters of the Acheloos, serves as a spectacular finish line for the challenging yet deeply captivating exploration of the Thessalian Agrafa.

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Your strolls around the city can begin at its significant "green lung," the large park with the beautiful name "Pausilipo". At the café of the same name, you can enjoy moments of relaxation while children play at the adjacent playground or marvel at the peacocks roaming freely. If you happen to see a male peacock spreading its feathers, grab your camera—it’s the most stunning fan you’ll ever see! Beyond being a recreational area, the park also serves as a cultural hub, hosting numerous events throughout the year.

In the square next to Pausilipo, you’ll admire the sculpture "My Mother" by the renowned artist Christos Kapralos, a gift from the Hellenic Parliament to the Municipality of Karditsa. On the other side of the square stands the statue of the "Black Horseman," Nikolaos Plastiras. On the park's western side, you’ll find the Metropolitan Church of Saints Constantine and Helen.

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The City Center

From Pausilipo, following the city’s main and most "lively" pedestrian street, Dimitriou Tertipi Street, you’ll arrive at the Central Square, dominated by the building of "Pallas," which now houses a branch of Alpha Bank. Built in the late interwar period, this building was, for decades, the city’s most important venue for entertainment, featuring cinema and theater halls, a café, and a luxurious bar-restaurant. The square also features a unique fountain, created in 2004–2005 by internationally acclaimed landscape sculptor Nella Golanda from Larissa. This three-dimensional "compass" depicts, among other things, the most prominent constellations visible from Thessaly. Close to the square, on Karaiskaki Street, you’ll find one of the city’s most beautiful buildings, the "Arni" Hotel.

About 100 meters south of the square lies the city’s most impressive building, the Municipal Market, constructed in the late 1920s and declared a European Architectural Heritage Monument in 1992. Around the Market, you’ll find several old shops that exude a charming "retro" vibe.

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Cultural Spaces

Nearby, you’ll find the Archaeological Museum of Karditsa, inaugurated in 2012. This modern and well-curated museum showcases the significant yet lesser-known archaeological treasures of the Karditsa Regional Unit. Another important cultural hub is the Municipal Art Gallery, which houses a permanent collection featuring works by notable artists from Karditsa, including the acclaimed Dimitris Gioldasis. The gallery also frequently hosts temporary exhibitions with retrospective, group, or thematic focuses.

Just 3 kilometers from the city lies the forest of Paparantza, or "Chilia Dendra" (Thousand Trees). With its massive, centuries-old trees, it is an enchanting and beautiful recreational spot year-round.

The two historic settlements have, understandably, taken a back seat, leaving the leading role to the spectacle of Meteora. Nevertheless, they have a rich history and deserve the visitor's attention. Traditionally, their economy was based on agriculture and livestock farming, but with the advent of mass tourism, most residents turned to the hospitality and catering sector, a fact that had an impact on their residential image. In Kalambaka, Sopoto and Kastraki, in Mesochori, picturesque "corners" that remind us of the past are preserved.

The area has been inhabited since the Neolithic times, as evidenced by the findings in the nearby Cave of Theopetra, which, by the way, is expected to reopen its "gates" to the public in the coming months.

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From Aeginio to Kalambaka

In Roman times, there was a city in the area called Aeginio, which is mentioned by Strabo, who, paradoxically, makes no mention of the impressive geological phenomenon of Meteora. During the Byzantine years, present-day Kalambaka was called Stagoi, with the following most likely etymological explanations: a) 's tois agious-stagious-stagous- The Stagoi, b) from "stagos", i.e. wheat carrier, c) from the Slavic word "stagia", which means chambers or cavities of rocks. There are two versions for the modern name. The first is that it comes from the Byzantine family Kalabaka, the second is that it comes from the Turkish "kale-bak", which means "prominent, strong fortress".

The most important attraction of the city is the three-aisled Basilica of the Dormition (10th-11th century), with the impressive "central" marble pulpit. It is located under the imposing, vertical rock of Agia. A visit to the Museum of Natural History and Mushrooms is a must, on the two floors of which you will see incredibly realistic representations of mammals and birds as well as all the mushrooms of the area. The Museum is also "responsible" for the Pan-Hellenic Truffle Festival, which has been organized with great success in Kalambaka for the last two years. Of particular interest is also the School of Wood Carving, the only vocational school of its kind in Greece, which has been operating since 1949.

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In a Stone Embrace

Kastraki is the "par excellence" settlement of Meteora and seems to have nestled in the embrace of stone towers. Regarding the name of the village, it seems that during the Byzantine years there was a real castle here, but it could also come from the natural castle that the rocks form around it. Its first inhabitants must have been Epirotes, from Northern Epirus, who initially founded the settlements Rouxiori, Agia Paraskevi, Righilavo and Triskiano, which were united in the early 18th century, forming today's village.

Kastraki is offered as a base for hiking among the rocks of Meteora. If you are here on the feast of Saint George, do not miss watching the "replacement" of the handkerchiefs at Agios Georgios Mandilas, a small monastery of the 14th century, which is perfectly "integrated" into a rock of Meteora.

If you want to enjoy the most impressive, "aerial" view of Kalambaka, Kastraki and Meteora, look for the road to the resort settlement Koromilia, which from a height of 1150 meters offers a unique panorama!

What if, through the passage of centuries, the ancient "god-river" has fallen from its "rank"? Here, at the western edge of Thessaly, it still holds the overall command, giving life to the nature that surrounds it. In the wild, untamed, and pristine Southern Pindos, nature is the absolute protagonist. The Aspropotamos Forest Complex covers 300,000 acres, one of the most beautiful in Greece, consisting of eight forests of fir, beech, pine, and oak (Krania, Doliana, Polythea, Kallirroi, Stefani, Katafyto, Anthousa, and Chalki). The area's flora is complemented by willows, cornels, plane trees, walnut trees, wild cherry trees, and cornelian cherries. You will also find shrubs (cedars), while notable herbs include tea, salep, nettle, oregano, and more. The region is also very rich in both variety and quantity of mushrooms.

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Such an environment forms the kingdom of wildlife. Brown bears, wolves, and roe deer feel "at home." Birdwatching enthusiasts will search for and find kestrels, golden eagles, owls, blue rock thrushes, and green woodpeckers. From the heights to the lowlands, the herpetofauna includes salamanders, toads, Mediterranean tortoises, alpine newts, lizards, as well as water snakes, vipers, and tree frogs. In the river waters "swim" the endemic Ionian trout, eels, Peloponnesian barbs, and liara fish. Every plant, every tree, every bird, every reptile, and every animal plays its own role in preserving the ecosystem, which is included in the European network of protected areas NATURA 2000.

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The landscape of Aspropotamos

The landscape of Aspropotamos is captivating: dense forests, alpine meadows, stone bridges, "forgotten" monasteries, and rivers with crystal-clear waters create an almost "Austro-Swiss" image. It is a landscape that resists the wear of time and human intervention — an ideal area for hiking, mountain biking, climbing, and wildlife exploration, with numerous marked trails offering peaceful and enchanting routes. One of the best seasons to enjoy Aspropotamos’ landscapes is autumn when the warm colors of beech and oak mix with the dark green of fir trees in the mixed forests.

Towering peaks rise in all four directions. Notable among them are Kakarditsa (2,429 m), the highest mountain in Southern Pindos and all of Western Thessaly, Lakmos or Peristeri (highest peak Tsoukarela - 2,295 m) and Neraida or Kap Gras (1,930 m). Between them flow the tributaries and the Aspros river itself, especially in spring, rushing wildly with its surface foaming and "whitening."

Just below the peaks of Lakmos lies one of the most fascinating and unique landscapes in Greece — the springs of Achelous with their beautiful meanders, the legendary Verliga. In ancient times, these springs were considered sacred and guarded by minor deities.

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Avoiding misunderstandings

First of all: Aspropotamos and Achelous are the same river, the second largest in Greece, with a length reaching 220 km. As it flows beside the slopes of Pindos, it is called Aspropotamos; when it reaches the plains, it is called Achelous.

Second: The Aspropotamos area is considered the entire region between Kakarditsa and Lakmos in the west and Koziakas in the east. Any village located near or beside Aspropotamos or its tributaries is considered an "Aspropotamos village." That is, from Pertouli in the east to Chalki in the west, and from Stefani in the north to Mesochora in the south — anything within this "quadrilateral" is considered an "Aspropotamos village."

This perception has begun to change in recent years, especially after the "Kapodistrias Plan," which included the Expanded Community of Aspropotamos, operating from 1999 to 2010 and including the villages Anthousa, Chalki, Krania, Katafyto, Milia, Agia Paraskevi, Kallirroi, Polythea, and Stefani. If you add two more villages that were part of the Aithikes Municipality during Kapodistrias — Gardiki and Athamania — you get the villages that today form the "hard core" of the Aspropotamos villages. Confusion increases when considering that today, under the "Kallikratis Plan," the first nine villages belong to the Meteora Municipality, while the other two belong to the Pyli Municipality.

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According to this "new" perception, the "border" is considered the Alekos Bridge, where the eponymous "beach" is also located, beloved by those who prefer summer swimming in a river. Access to the area can be made from two sides. From the north, from the Kalambaka side, through a beautiful passage known in Vlach as Kiátra Broásta ("Straight Stone"), which unfortunately was destroyed by the storm Daniel. Restoration work has begun, and a dirt road covered with gravel has been opened, allowing access again with a conventional vehicle (with some care).

The second and more popular access is from the south, from the Pyli side, passing through the more developed tourist villages of the mountainous Trikala region — Elati, Pertouli, and Neraidochori.

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Gini vinis, oaspe!

No matter how beautiful a place is, a visit that does not include getting to know its people and their works is incomplete. Aspropotamos is 100% "Vlach territory" this proud, mountain-dwelling, semi-nomadic ethnic group that has ruled the passes of Pindos and beyond since ancient times. They await you in their beautiful villages — a few thousand of them in summer, far fewer in winter — to warmly welcome you with a "Gini vinis, oaspe," meaning "welcome, friend" in their Romance language. You might get confused about exactly where you are when you hear them speak about their villages by their old names (Krania – Kornou, Agia Paraskevi – Tzourtzia, Anthousa – Lipinitsa, Athamania – Moutsiara, Kallirroi – Velitsiani, Katafyto – Kotori, Polythea – Dragovisti, Stefani – Skliniasa), but don’t worry! Wherever you are, you are in good hands!

The traditional occupations of the inhabitants, mainly livestock farming and logging, and the harsh weather conditions in winter, imposed a nomadic way of life. In autumn, they took the "Vlachostrates" ("Vlach roads") to descend from the slopes of Pindos to the plains and in spring they did the reverse journey. Accustomed to frequent movements, many became "kyratzides" (carriers). In winter, the villages were deserted, and only a few guards stayed behind to look after the properties — a "custom" maintained until a few decades ago.

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This nomadic mindset persists today, even when there are no professional reasons. In winter, residents are few, but in summer, the villages overflow with people. The largest ones (Krania, Gardiki, Agia Paraskevi, Chalki) count a few thousand summer visitors. The Vlachs love their villages as much as their unique traditions, which they honor at every opportunity and in every aspect. A very special place in their hearts is held by their local music, with the accordion often being a distinctive element compared to other folk music of Pindos.

An architectural masterpiece

The truth is that the villages of Aspropotamos — except for Anthousa and Chalki, where stone dominates — although surrounded by landscapes of unimaginable beauty, do not equally stand out for their architectural character. The reason is that they were destroyed by the German occupiers during the operation "Panther" (October 18 – November 7, 1943), which leveled the villages of Aspropotamos (and other mountainous areas of Northern and Western Greece) under the "justification" that the inhabitants cooperated with and sheltered ELAS partisans.

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Despite this, the existence of a single building, the image of one of the most beautiful churches in Greece, is enough to compensate for this architectural "deficit." This is the Church of the Holy Cross (also known as "Doliana Monastery"), which impresses with its 13 domes and is rightly called "the Parthenon of Aspropotamos." Take your time and enjoy this monument of rare architectural value. After all, time flows more slowly in Aspropotamos, and every moment gains meaning. Because it is not a tourist destination in the traditional sense. It is a refuge for those seeking authenticity, tranquility, and connection with nature and tradition.

In Byzantine times, the settlement was located on the northern bank of the Portaikos (or "Portiatis") river, where today we find the neighborhood and the magnificent Porta Panagia church. Back then, it was called Megalai Pylai (Great Gates), a name that during the Ottoman period gave way to "Porta Pazar." The modern settlement “moved across” to a naturally cooler and shadier area.

Religious Monuments

Today’s small town has the charming, laid-back atmosphere of the Greek countryside, and it’s worth strolling through its narrow streets. But the most impressive attraction lies in the old “territory,” which you can access by crossing a pedestrian bridge 120 meters long and 2 meters wide. You can also reach it by car via another nearby bridge. There, where Megalai Pylai once stood, you’ll encounter a Byzantine masterpiece: the church of the Holy Virgin, better known as “Porta Panagia”, a three-aisled, domed, cross-in-square basilica. It served as the katholikon of a stauropegic monastery founded in 1283.

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On this side of the river, a little further away, about 5 km from Pyli at an altitude of 650 meters on the slopes of Koziakas, stands another major religious monument, the Monastery of Saint Vissarion of Dousiko. It was founded in 1535 by the most prominent native of Pyli, Saint Vissarion (patron saint of Pyli, Trikala, and Kalambaka), during his tenure as Metropolitan of Larissa. It is one of the few monasteries outside Mount Athos where the avaton applies—women are prohibited from entering, based on the recorded wishes of its founder.

Externally, it resembles a fortress—it actually served as a kind of castle and refuge for Greek fighters during difficult times for the nation. At the peak of its operation, it had 365 cells, one for each day of the year. The frescoes of the katholikon are stunning and attributed to the renowned Constantinopolitan artist of the Cretan School, Tzortzis, while valuable treasures are housed in the monastery library.

The Dousiko Monastery is not the only legacy of Saint Vissarion in Pyli. He funded the construction of many stone bridges in the mountainous regions of Thessaly, and one of the most impressive lies just a few kilometers outside of Pyli. The Bridge of Pyli (also known as "Saint Vissarion's" or "Porta Panagia’s") is one of the largest single-arch bridges in Greece and remains in excellent condition.

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A Dreamlike Bridge

A few kilometers past Pyli, crossing a narrow bridge at a spectacular point in the Portaikos valley marks the beginning of a route along the slopes of Koziakas (or “Kerketio”), passing through some of the most famous mountain resorts of Trikala: Elati, the Pertouli Meadows, and Pertouli (each deserving its own “chapter”). But before continuing along that route, a detour is a must at the signs pointing to Stournareika and the Palaiokarya Bridge. This stone bridge is perhaps the most beautiful and most photographed in Greece, as it stands in a magical setting with two waterfalls completing the fairytale scenery. In the settlement of the same name, you’ll find a traditional dristela (a water-powered fulling mill). A short detour will take you to Ropoto, the “sinking village” with its striking, tilted Church of the Dormition of the Virgin. Continuing westward along this route, passing through charming villages like Stournareika and Mesochora, you’ll eventually reach Tzoumerka and Arta.

The “Therapeutic” Mountain

Returning to the “main” route, you’ll follow the slopes of Koziakas. Its forests are known for their rich fauna and the great variety of aromatic and medicinal herbs. According to myth, the god of medicine, Asclepius, roamed these wonderful landscapes in search of ingredients for his healing remedies.

From Elati, the Pertouli Meadows, and Kori (among other options), trails lead to the Koziakas Mountain Refuge (Contact: +306939173337, +306979293482, +306977662569 & +306947819298), which opened in 1959 at an altitude of 1,750 meters. From the refuge, the highest peak, Astrapi, at 1,901 meters, is just a 30-minute hike away.

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Passage to the Vlach Villages

Leaving Pertouli behind, you’ve essentially (though not “officially”) entered the “territory” of the Aspropotamos, as the residents of the next Kozias villages share Vlach heritage and common traditions with the “true” Aspropotamians. The first village after Pertouli is the region’s third tourist hub, the beautiful Neraidochori, amphitheatrically built on a slope—like all the villages from this point on—and offering excellent accommodations. Below the village, in the Kamniaitis valley, you’ll find the stone bridge of Hatzipetros near a well-preserved section of the old “Vlachostrata”. Asking locals will greatly help you locate them.

Continuing westward, you'll come across the impressive stone-built church of Saint Paraskevi overlooking the entire valley. A few meters ahead, you’ll enjoy the panoramic view of the very “steep” Pyrrha, where it’s worth seeking out the Church of Saint Modestos with its reddish dome and beautiful frescoes.

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The next village is also steep—Desi. To its north, in the Kremasti area, look for the towering waterfall, especially in spring when the waters flow vigorously. South of Desi, below the road, is the village of Agios Nikolaos (formerly "Kamniai") and nearly across from it, “drowned” in vegetation, is Drosochori (formerly "Tyfloseli"), where you’ll find another waterfall known as “Mana tou Nerou” (Mother of Water).

Always heading west, a bit further on you’ll see to your right the very unique church of Saint Nikolaos Asfakas, “wedged” into an imposing vertical rock. Just a few more kilometers and you’ll reach Aleksiou Bridge, which means you’re now, officially, in Aspropotamos!